Reduced range in the cold

[saneagle]

The cold air makes me sweat less for the same effort is what I meant.

Air temperature doesn't affect how much you sweat. It's body temperature that counts. Sweating is the main mechanism your body uses to lose heat. If you go out in the cold, your body becomes cold, so no sweating. A cold body is less efficient than a warm one, but then efficiency drops off again when temperature goes too high. When an athlete cycles on a cold day, the exercise is enough to heat the body up to an opti umbrella condition, but the 100w that you would make won't compensate for your loss of heat unless you're substantially insulated, and if you did have such insulation, it would hamper your pedalling, meaning some of your 100w is not making motive power, and it would produce a lot of drag.

In summary, air is denser, which causes more drag. Rolling resistance increases. Clothes for insulation cause drag. Lack of insulation causes body efficiency to go down and you can't pedal as enthusiastically.

The only way to know which of those factors affect you and by how much would be to compare a winter ride with a summer ride on a non-assisted bike, or listen to any guy that commutes on a non-assisted one, as they will all tell you winter rides take longer.

 

[thelarkbox]

Fwiw I have noticed a significant drop in power over the last few weeks even with a fully charged battery, My return from shopping will take me up a (mostly) smooth uphill length of cycle track which with nominal effort from my legs I could sail up at 15-16 mph until recently.

Currently im finding myself travelling at 12-13 mph up the same hill after pushing the pedals what seems like quite a bit more, (still not a lot compared to pre motor) hey it stills beats walking or cycling uphill without a motor at all.

Tbh ive not paid attention to the battery level displayed on the headset, I will next time out and see if its associated with a drop in reported voltage level.

 

[AndyBike]

I would think an insulated 'jacket' for the battery would solve the problem.

Waterproof quilted material here,

Quilted Reflective Waterproof Fabric - EU Fabrics

Quilted, reflective, waterproof fabric. 150cm wide. This quilted fabric is double sided, reflective with black underside. Warm for coats, ideal for wind shield protection, car window sun shades, pet covers, covering caravans, awnings, car and bike covers.

www.eufabrics.com

Double or triple thick the material by folding, then stitch velcro in long lengths to join it.
If its the long battery type on the modern bike, then its going to wrap around the whole down tube, but other types you might need to use a sewing machine to create the right shape. Then maybe straps, snap closure, adjustable loops etc to hold it in place.

I'd an idea to make a full waterproof cover to fit on my full suss ebike. Might not be 100% as its got to get around cranks, tuck tightly behind a chainring, around rear shock etc etc, but im quite sure I could come up with something that covers enough of the electrical areas to keep the worst of the rain off them.
As a furniture maker I was trained in upholstery too, so a dab hand with the old Singer

 

[guerney]

I'd an idea to make a full waterproof cover to fit on my full suss ebike. Might not be 100% as its got to get around cranks, tuck tightly behind a chainring, around rear shock etc etc, but im quite sure I could come up with something that covers enough of the electrical areas to keep the worst of the rain off them.
As a furniture maker I was trained in upholstery too, so a dab hand with the old Singer

Tartan?

 

[RollingChunder]

Air temperature doesn't affect how much you sweat. It's body temperature that counts. Sweating is the main mechanism your body uses to lose heat. If you go out in the cold, your body becomes cold, so no sweating. A cold body is less efficient than a warm one, but then efficiency drops off again when temperature goes too high. When an athlete cycles on a cold day, the exercise is enough to heat the body up to an opti umbrella condition, but the 100w that you would make won't compensate for your loss of heat unless you're substantially insulated, and if you did have such insulation, it would hamper your pedalling, meaning some of your 100w is not making motive power, and it would produce a lot of drag.

In summary, air is denser, which causes more drag. Rolling resistance increases. Clothes for insulation cause drag. Lack of insulation causes body efficiency to go down and you can't pedal as enthusiastically.

The only way to know which of those factors affect you and by how much would be to compare a winter ride with a summer ride on a non-assisted bike, or listen to any guy that commutes on a non-assisted one, as they will all tell you winter rides take longer.

I don't doubt your research. I am looking forward to warmer weather but the wind that comes with it this time of year is even worse for efficiency.

I would think an insulated 'jacket' for the battery would solve the problem.

Would be worth it if spending many months in sub-zero. Or if there was some easy way to fit. But kneeling down, wrapping and unwrapping the battery each journey is added faff for a tiny bit more range.