Salisbury Powacycle- Removal and inspection of motor.

scrambler Bob

Finding my (electric) wheels
Jun 20, 2020
11
0
Hi All, I would like to inspect the rotor and stator in the rear hub. Could anyone tell me what the make of the motor is and how you get at it. Any special tools needed?. I suspect that I have a hall sensor problem. Any help is greatly appreciated. Bob
 

vfr400

Esteemed Pedelecer
Jun 12, 2011
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Don't take the motor off or dismantle it until you've confirmed that the halls are faulty. You can test them at the controller.

With everything connected and switched on, measure between the red and black hall wires on the white block connector to check that you have 5v. After that check between each of the three hall signal wires (yellow, blue, green) and the black while you rotate the wheel slowly backwards. You should see the 5v switching on and off.
 

scrambler Bob

Finding my (electric) wheels
Jun 20, 2020
11
0
Hello VFR, Thanks for your quick reply.
I connected the motor to another bike that works fine and Nothing!! so i'm fairly sure my problem lies in the motor. Any further help would be good. Bob
 

vfr400

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Jun 12, 2011
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A test takes 2 minutes - the time it took you to post that. You guys always know better. Good luck!
 

scrambler Bob

Finding my (electric) wheels
Jun 20, 2020
11
0
A test takes 2 minutes - the time it took you to post that. You guys always know better. Good luck!
No, I don't know better, its just that I know that something is wrong within the motor and I need to remove it from the wheel hub to check all possibilities. I do thank you for your input though. Bob
 

Nealh

Esteemed Pedelecer
Aug 7, 2014
11,181
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The fault may or may not be a hall sensor, by carrying out the test as vfr has mentioned you can then rule out some guess work.
 

scrambler Bob

Finding my (electric) wheels
Jun 20, 2020
11
0
Hello Neal H, I do accept that normally the method vfr suggests would be the logical step but, given that I have connected this hub to a system I know is working, the problem must lie within this rear wheel hub hence my need to dismantle it. Thanks for your input though. Bob
 

Nealh

Esteemed Pedelecer
Aug 7, 2014
11,181
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West Sx RH
What you say is not an issue but in your words you only suspect a hall, it is so much easier to test for faulty hall /s(if it is a hall) via the route already mentioned rather then testing within the motor, testing first before opening you will then know exactly which hall to replace if it is the case.
However if you think you know better go about it your preferred way.

The advise given is because it has served very well in the past and rules out the guessing before opening up.
Your issue if the hub is faulty might not be a hall, a clutch fault for example or a bad phase could be an issue. The thing is you have not provided any info as to the initial fault and how it occurred.
 

scrambler Bob

Finding my (electric) wheels
Jun 20, 2020
11
0
Hello Neal H, Pardon my ignorance, the history regarding this being that I acquired the bike about a month ago from a friend of a friend, a widow, whose husband kept the bike for spares, so little is known about it but, from its condition, it is apparent that it has not been used for a very long time so I thought I would try to resurrect it.
I have examined the controller which is well rusted and needs replacing. In order to see if the hub motor was working I removed the wheel and connected it to my normal bike, which is also a Salisbury, to see if the motor on this wheel was working. once connected it didn't work. I thought that it was probably the hall sensors but it may not be. I didn't realize that I wouldn't be able to test them if I took the motor out of the hub. If I am to do the test as described by VFR, I will need to connect it to the working bike which I can do but I am concerned that there may be other motor issues that I haven't discovered hence my need to remove the motor from the hub. Can you help with this? I have opened the screwed cover to expose the nylon cogs but I can't see how to expose the motor unless I take off the gear cassette then knock the spindle through? Any help or advise is appreciated. Cheers, Bob
 

scrambler Bob

Finding my (electric) wheels
Jun 20, 2020
11
0
Hi Neal, I checked the hall sensors via the method that you and VFR advised, as per VFR's thread, I checked the red and black wires, reading was 4.92 volts. I then checked black to blue, black to green and black to yellow, each time I connected to these wires I got a similar reading but no drop in voltage when I slowly turned the wheel both backward and forward, ie. the reading stayed at 4.92 volts. When I turn the wheel it is a little stiff and makes a 'clunking' sound, the wheel bearing seem okay. Does this mean the hall sensors are faulty? or could it be something else? Could you advise please. Bob
 

vfr400

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Jun 12, 2011
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If the hall sensors don't switch, something is wrong. Possible causes, ranked in order of likeliness:
1. Corrosion is shorting them
2. Short in the motor cable has blown them
3. Somebody connected a high voltage to them
4. Extreme temperature has blown them

I can't figure out whether you have the motor open or not, neither can I understand what your problems are. Show photos!
 

scrambler Bob

Finding my (electric) wheels
Jun 20, 2020
11
0
Thanks for your quick reply VFR, Thanks for the information too. Given that the bike has been unused for a number of years I think it may well be a corrosion issue judging by the state of the controller. I will take the motor out and send a few photos. Cheers, Bob
 

scrambler Bob

Finding my (electric) wheels
Jun 20, 2020
11
0
From what I have seen, no signs of any sealing of the controller and probably not the hub either. I have taken off the hub cover to reveal the nylon cogs which look okay but I'm struggling to take the whole cassette out. The remover tool purchased from Halfords, didn't fit so I opted to take out the cassette via the bearing so I managed to remove the gearing but am unsure how to remove the rest of the cassette in order to get at the circlip securing the hub spindle to remove it, If you have any experience removing this your help would be appreciated. Thanks. Bob
 

vfr400

Esteemed Pedelecer
Jun 12, 2011
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Remove any nuts from the other side and tap the axle through with a mallet. Hold the edge of the motor on two blocks.
 

scrambler Bob

Finding my (electric) wheels
Jun 20, 2020
11
0
Hello VFR, I have taken out the motor from the hub. Motor looks quite corroded so have included photos below. Do you think it’s worth splitting down even further? If not, do you have any idea what motor it is? I can’t see any makers mark on the motor casings.
Any help you can give, thanks. Bob
369523695336954
Remove any nuts from the other side and tap the axle through with a mallet. Hold the edge of the motor on two blocks.
 

vfr400

Esteemed Pedelecer
Jun 12, 2011
4,875
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Basildon
That green PCB with all the crud on it is what's causing your problem. It needs cleaning up. There might be corrosion on the other side too between the legs of the hall sensors. Try undoing the screws that hold it down to see if you can wiggle it up. The hall sensors might be glued into the motor, so you might not be able to get it off. Be careful not to break the legs.

On the other hand, you can rip it off, prise out the broken hall sensors and solder in new ones.
 

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