SanEagle

[lee-wave]

Hi All

Took a punt and bid for a Saneagle Folder without battery and won....had purchased a Phylion 36V 10amp battery so hoping this would fit without too much trouble.

Anyone know much about these bikes ? They are Chinese of course and look pretty good...this one was described as a year old and immaculate...

lee-wave

 

[Deleted member 4366]

The 26" wheeled one is brilliant. The motor's bullet proof and so is the frame. The weak points are the front fork drop-outs. They're strong enough, but break of you don't get the washers in the dimple when you tighten up. Also the bottom bracket bearings are pretty crappy. Replace them with a cartridge type from Halfords for about £10 at the first sign of trouble.

I also had the 20" version, which is nearly the same, but the handlebar folding mechanism was a bit weak, so the steering felt a little ponderous.

I've just remembered that both versions have the thick optical pedal sensor, which means you need a very long bottom bracket. The controller isn't compatible with other sensors, so I'd swap the controller for a more conventional one with a normal magnet ring PAS sensor along with the BB. I still have the old controller and sensor if yours ever give trouble, and you want to keep the same type. You can solder about 1/3 of the shunt in the controller to take the current up to about 18amps for better hill-climbing.

We have Saneagle on this forum, who's Saneagle bike has metamorphosed several times. It presently has the original motor in the front forks, which were changed to Marzocchi Bombers and a high-speed Q100 motor in the back running off a 12aH Headway battery. It's a shame you've already got a battery because there would've been a lot more options as you'll see here.
http://www.pedelecs.co.uk/forum/electric-bicycles/12198-new-version-my-san-eagle-2.html

Edit: I guess it was this one. good price! Did you get the duff battery because you can probably fix it@ I see they modified the forks to stronger ones.
Electric Bike - San Eagle 36v | eBay

 

[lee-wave]

Thank you d8veh very much - picking up the bike on Thurs. Seller has thrown in the dud battery and charger. Apparently the battery had swollen up and a plastic piece had broken off - it would be interesting to attempt a repair / recell....on the subject of batteries had an issue with my 36V 10amp bottle battery - when mounted in the water bottle position it is subjected to quite high G forces when going over bumps etc. The two end plastic pieces are held in place by 3 screws each. The cylindrical battery cell can slide inside the aluminium case about 1 inch. Each time going over a bump this battery cell can impose considerable force on the lower plastic cover. All three were broken....I resoldered some dodgy wires and superglued the broken pieces back. After reassembly I wrapped insulation tape around the join to take some load of the screws....
Will keep you up to date re the SanEagle once again thank you...

lee-wave

 

[lee-wave]

Picked up the bike - condition as new - removed battery rack, jury rigged my own battery and everything works, motor, pedelec, throttle all good - however with or without power when the hub motor turns there is a cog related rasping noise. Took motor apart and can only get so far - noise seems to emanate from behind this plate which I dont know how to remove - any ideas?

lee-wave

 

[Deleted member 4366]

Can you hear the noise when you turn the gears. If not, bolt it back in your drop-outs with the side-plates off, and spin it up to see if it makes the same noise to eliminate other possibilities.

I've not disassembled one of those before. It looks completely different to any I've seen before, including ours in the same bike.

I'm guessing that you have to split the rotor and stator now, but that's dodgy unless you have to. The magnets hold the two together, so you have to pull hard to separate them, and when you put it back together, the magnets suck them together, which can smash/chip the magnets if it's not properly aligned. Is there a circlip retaining the shaft on the other side? A photo would help.

 

[lee-wave]

Can you hear the noise when you turn the gears. If not, bolt it back in your drop-outs with the side-plates off, and spin it up to see if it makes the same noise to eliminate other possibilities.

I've not disassembled one of those before. It looks completely different to any I've seen before, including ours in the same bike.

I'm guessing that you have to split the rotor and stator now, but that's dodgy unless you have to. The magnets hold the two together, so you have to pull hard to separate them, and when you put it back together, the magnets suck them together, which can smash/chip the magnets if it's not properly aligned. Is there a circlip retaining the shaft on the other side? A photo would help.

If I wind the planetry gears which of course turns the 'armature' I get this noise - it is definitely gear / centre cog related. The plate itself is unrelated to the gear or centre cog - it is actually part of the fixed spindle which attaches to the drop out. It has to be removed to get access to the planetry gears. Correction the plate does support the 3 gears but not the centre cog.
Here are a few more pictures of the motor




I will just have to figure out how to remove or pull this plate away from the motor without damaging it.....

Thanks for your help

Lee-wave

 

[Deleted member 4366]

That's a very interesting motor. I reckon that you need to remove that central plate on the other side. One thing you need to be aware of is the hall sensor pcb. The position of the halls is critical, so if you have to remove it, mark its position carefully. Also, it looks like the halls stand up from it like on the Q100 motor, which means only the stiffness of their bendy legs keeps them in position, so be very careful not to bump them otherwise you'll be looking for a sensorless controller.

I think there's another bearing in there, but my money's on a magnet fragment chipped off that's rubbing on the stator. Whichever it is, you'll have to pull it apart.

 

[lee-wave]

That's a very interesting motor. I reckon that you need to remove that central plate on the other side. One thing you need to be aware of is the hall sensor pcb. The position of the halls is critical, so if you have to remove it, mark its position carefully. Also, it looks like the halls stand up from it like on the Q100 motor, which means only the stiffness of their bendy legs keeps them in position, so be very careful not to bump them otherwise you'll be looking for a sensorless controller.

I think there's another bearing in there, but my money's on a magnet fragment chipped off that's rubbing on the stator. Whichever it is, you'll have to pull it apart.

I would tend to agree with you there - going to figure out a puller jig thingy which will pull the plate out as I wind in the spindle nut or something liike that...will keep you informed - signing off for now - going for a ride on my other bike...

lee-wave

 

[shemozzle999]

Hi lee-wave,

That is a geared direct drive (no freewheel) YPW motor, it has an internal rotor which has the magnets glued to the rotor plate at 90 degrees to the norm and they have been known to come unglued when the motor is over powered. You might be able to see them though the slots on the other of the motor.

I believe the stationary stub axle plate you have unscrewed is just a press kit and should just lever off the casting to expose the planetary gears which will need to be removed together with the sun gear to give access to the 6 cover plate screws to be able to open the motor up for further investigation - please keep the photo's coming.

 

[lee-wave]

Hi lee-wave,

That is a geared direct drive (no freewheel) YPW motor, it has an internal rotor which has the magnets glued to the rotor plate at 90 degrees to the norm and they have been known to come unglued when the motor is over powered. You might be able to see them though the slots on the other of the motor.

I believe the stationary stub axle plate you have unscrewed is just a press kit and should just lever off the casting to expose the planetary gears which will need to be removed together with the sun gear to give access to the 6 cover plate screws to be able to open the motor up for further investigation - please keep the photo's coming.

You were right shemozzle - used a piece of wood with a spindle size hole as a handle - I then sort of jerked this handle up and used gravity to pull the stationary stub axle plate off. then the motor was refitted to the forks. With all the cogs removed the motor ran as smooth as a babies ... the same with one cog back - but when two cogs were fitted as in the picture it was clear to see contact between them. When all three were fitted this contact noise was tripled. Right now I am carefully using 400 wet and dry to take a couple of thou of each cog until there is clearance.



You say that this motor has no freewheel - does this mean there is more drag if I cycle with no power then with hub motors that have a freewheel.

Thank you d8 and shemoz for your input and help. Tremendous forum this...

WE CANNOT SOLVE OUR PROBLEMS WITH THE SAME THINKING WE USED TO CREATE THEM.

lee-wave

ps if anyone ebikes around the Bookham - Dorking area drop a line.....

 

[shemozzle999]

You will need to remove all 3 of the planetary gears and re-fit the stub axle, then fit the motor back into the forks and power it up and check for the noise. A loose magnet will be magnetically attracted to the stator coil when it is energized under power and will rub on the stator.

If all is quiet under power then you can assume the magnets are OK and you do not need to get inside the casting.

It might be wise to check if there is any movement on the sun gear shaft at this stage as it must either run through a bearing or a bush.

If the planetary gears are coming into contact with each other then I suspect their bearings are shot and you will need to press them out and replace them with new ones - no need to file the the gears.

Yes, you will get resistance off power as the motor will turn into a generator.

I use my local Formula One car service shop as they have a hydraulic press for removing wheel bearings but any Qwik Fit type outfit should be able to do the job, usually for free, as they are always fascinated by the bits I take in .

 

[lee-wave]

You will need to remove all 3 of the planetary gears and re-fit the stub axle, then fit the motor back into the forks and power it up and check for the noise. A loose magnet will be magnetically attracted to the stator coil when it is energized under power and will rub on the stator.

If all is quiet under power then you can assume the magnets are OK and you do not need to get inside the casting.

It might be wise to check if there is any movement on the sun gear shaft at this stage as it must either run through a bearing or a bush.

If the planetary gears are coming into contact with each other then I suspect their bearings are shot and you will need to press them out and replace them with new ones - no need to file the the gears.

Yes, you will get resistance off power as the motor will turn into a generator.

I use my local Formula One car service shop as they have a hydraulic press for removing wheel bearings but any Qwik Fit type outfit should be able to do the job, usually for free, as they are always fascinated by the bits I take in .

Finally got round to tackling the motor - dismantled completely - had to cut the motor wires - all armature screwa were loose as were the 4 magnet plate screws but the magnets were all ok and glued properly. After tightening up everything the motor was reassembled - it seemed to spin very freely and smoothly when the gears were refitted there was no clearance between them . When the motoer spun up the noise was similar as described by another SanEagle Classic for sale on Ebay (ending today - see below) The only solution was to file down the cogs a little at a time - added a touch of Dow Corning silicon vacuum grease to the cogs and reassembled. After a 5 mile ride yesterday and before the rain set in there was only a small 'strimmer' noise.....so filing the gears seems to have helped......

In summary the bike is quite nice to ride but has no power mode control and no freewheel. When you pedal a lot of power comes on and you have to stop pedalling to control the speed. If you switch off the motor there is considerable drag to pedal against.

Is there a way to remove the pedelec and run on throttle alone ?

lee-wave



From ebay sale description of another Saneagle Classic

the main issue is the bike starts off well and if you go for a test ride you will be really pleased after about one mile it starts getting noisy a very similar noise to your next door but one neighbor using a strimmer the bike keeps going and doesn't get any louder however far you go but when you stop you can feel a sort of sticking in the front wheel if you leave it standing a bit its back to normal

 

[Deleted member 4366]

There's a few things you can do:
1 Add a switch to the red wire on the pedal sensor to switch it off.
2. The throttle speed takes precedence over the pedal sensor, so, if you use a little bit of throttle, it cuts the power down.
3. Buy a new controller with a LCD Display and several levels of PAS. Cost about £60. I've got one if you want one.
4. Get a thumb throttle and three-position switch. Take the spring out of the thumb throttle, and use it as a cruise control like this:


Here you can see the switch and throttle on the left. You need the switch to be instantly accessible.

 

[lee-wave]

Thanks D8 - I might just take you up on that offer for the controller, what do you want for it.

Just got back from a seven mile ride (just in time for F1) with the wind and then against a strong wind - every bit of assistance was most welcome... heres a pic of the bike , the battery rack is a temporary set up - the previous owner had a larger sprocket fitted so it goes quite fast.

Also here is a picture of my other ebike

Thanks again

lee wave

 

[Deleted member 4366]

£60. It comes with pedal sensor and wheel-speed sensor. This will also allow you to get a cartridge bottom bracket. I've been running one at 19 amps, but it gets quite hot enclosed in a bag. It doesn't get hot outside, so at that current it needs a bit of air flow. I think 15 amps would be better if enclosed, but I can make it whatever you want. Pictures here:
http://www.pedelecs.co.uk/forum/classifieds/15157-mxus-motors-lcd-display-controllers.html

 

[shemozzle999]

Hi lee-wave,

Does the motor run smoothly, if not, then one of the hall sensors could be blown and cause the motor to overheat with continuous use. It would also make the motor noisy.

 

[lee-wave]

Just got back from a week in Pilsen.....son has ridden this bike for maybe over 20 miles with a lot of motor - he reports motor seems to be running very smoothly with good power available - overall I think the bike is nice but a bit heavy, the motor design is not the best, the Suntour SR shocks are not very good..... but hey I am not complaining for the price I paid.

 

[lee-wave]

Bid for and won an Ezee Forza on Ebay with a dead battery. Probably of 2009 vintage. Bike in excellent condition - fitted the battery from the SanEagle after some advice from Cyclezee. The Forza goes like a charm....anyone interested in the Saneagle with no battery? Sorry am I allowed to do this on this forum?
lee-wave

 

[Cyclezee]

Hi Lee,

Glad to hear you got the Forza up and running

As for the San Eagle, you can advertise it in the classified section which you can find here Classifieds