pedalling click! Or is it?
Hi,
Me again ! - I have an annoying clicking sound, and definite feel of a click, on my right pedal. It is there most of the time, but not always when I'm cycling at faster speeds. I have checked the chain cover is not knocking, and that the pedel nut is firmly tightened. I'm beginning to wonder if it is because I am pedalling unevenly, favouring my right foot? If I pedal just with my left foot, i.e. take the weight off the right considerably then it seems to cure the problem, but obviously I can't pedal like this. Any suggestions - this Forum has helped me with all my other little annoyances, some I'm living with, some I've cured, don't know what I'd do without you - any suggestions ? anyone else get the same problem?
thanks
Jeanette
To cure this problem you should locate the origin of the noise. Even if the pedals you choose as a replacement are quality, if the click is not cured, you'll feel disappointed.
Assuming it is coming from the bottom bracket/crank/pedal area before you dismantle any parts carry out the following tests (some strength may be required).
Bottom bracket bearings - turn the right hand crank until the crank is vertical with the pedal at the bottom. Grasp the crank (Not the pedal). Give it a good upward and outward pulling as if you are trying to bend the crank arm. If the Crank arm breaks you've found your problem
(a cracked crank arm).
If there is any movement where the bottom bracket axle enters the bearing inside the frame that will need further examination. If there is movement, see if you can ascertain (perhaps by just looking and feeling as you work the crank) if it is the joint between the crank and the axle. To tighten this you will need a slim socket spanner (that fits the bolt and passes between the bolt and the inner circle of the crank from which you must remove the plug) and a socket driver (a square head on an arm - usually 1/2 inch square). If with moderate force you can turn this bolt (clockwise) that is inside the crank this may solve your problem. Take care not to overdo it. A road test will reveal the cure.
If the problem is not solved or can be located to the pedal:
Next the pedal. Grasp the pedal each side (where the foot rests) and wiggle it from side to side and up and down. There should be very little, if any, play at this point. Any play will probably be the slack in the cup and cone bearings inside the pedal at each end.
To continue you will need to remove the pedal from the crank with a suitable sized open ended spanner (Mine takes 17 mm - 'snug' enough on the pedal axle where the flats are, to turn it). The right hand pedal has a right hand thread (normal) so undoes by turning counter-clockwise.
Having removed the pedal from the crank, place the pedal in a vice gripped where the flats for the spanner are.
Now to inspect the pedal bearing(s). If you turn the pedal you will be able to feel any grittiness in the bearing. You may even feel a resistence or binding, on/off/on/off, as you turn the pedal. This suggests a bent axle from when the cycle fell over at some time. If so, the pedal is scrap! To continue in hope.........
At the end of the pedal, covering the bearing and cup and cone there is (on both Torq and Sprint - maybe all the range) a rubber/plastic 'bung' which is a very good fit and the joint is almost imperceptible . This bung can be removed with an electrical size screwdriver, prizing it upwards so that it pops out. Don't let it pop too far away - they are difficult to come by.
Have a look inside: you will see a nut. This can be removed with a 12 mm socket (turn counter clockwise). Don't worry about the ball bearings for the moment they are secured under the cone which is beneath a washer with flats in the hole (to stop it turning). Lift out this washer with fine nosed pliers and clean it in solvent.
(You are now halfway to owning a cycle workshop)
Now it can get tricky and preparation can save a lot of grief.
Place a cloth around the base of the pedal, like a collar, to catch any miscreant balls that try to get away.
Undo the cone inside the top WITHOUT lifting the pedal (it's an awkward size and can be done by pushing the hexagon with a screwdriver counter clockwide). Bring it to the top and lift out with the same fine nosed pliers.
You will see inside, the ball race (so many separate balls - in my day there were always an even number so that each would follow its neighbours' direction of turning) You may find there is a gap like one ball missing: this is probably to save having an even number of balls). Count the number of
balls, it will save you having a "was there 20 or 21 session".
NOW grasp the end of the pedal axle where you have just removed the cup and cone so that the axle cannot disappear down the pedal when you undo the vice. Lift the pedal out of the vice by that axle end and lay it on a clean cloth securely level so that the balls do not run about when you have removed and cleaned them. Carefully remove the balls from the races and clean them in a solvent like petrol to remove all traces of oil (which is not even a poor lubricant for pedals) and grit. Similarly clean the races inside the pedal and the hole the axle passes through.
Apply a liberal coating of a good grease to the races (Back and front). Carefully replace the correct number (you counted them, remember) of balls in the rear race. Pass the cleaned up axle through the axle hole and carefully locate the end that fits into the crank, in the vice as before, holding the pedal upright by the threaded end on which the outer cone and lock nut fits.
Without relaxing your grip, locate and secure the end that fits in the crank in the vice and tighten the vice. Locate the correct number of balls in the cup. Locate the cone on the threaded axle and turn it down until it rests against the balls (the curved face of the cone fits against the balls).
You may have difficulty in finding a tool to move this cone in a clockwise direction. It can be gripped with the fine nosed pliers - it does not need much grip to move it. When it is securely located against the balls, remove the pedal from the vice (temporarily) and placing a thick screwdriver detween the hexagonal cone nut and the body of the pedal, turn the pedal axle from the back until the cone is as tight as it will go.
Replace the washer with the flats inside on the axle noting that the axle aslo has flats on it. Start the lock nut on the axle and tighten using the socket used to remove it. Holding the other end of the axle (like in the vice again) tighten the lock nut.
Turn the pedal by hand to check that the pedal will turn without binding and there is no slack in the bearing. Adjust as necessary (unfortunately it is trial and error - mine co-operated first time).
Lightly grease the pedal axle where it will enter the crank and replace the
pedal in the crank, carefully, because the pedal is steel and the crank is softer aluminium. Tighten securely.
Next week you can do the left hand pedal. You may never have to do them again.
Peter
