Help! Throttle & PAS not working

fibag21

Just Joined
May 15, 2023
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Hi,

My daughter has an old Ecolocycle ebke MAX (500 W - 36V 10am/hr). Just before the winter, the display stopped functioning so during the winter (long one here in Quebec) I ordered a new display + controller + PAS + throttle (Boluse's LCD-S866_2).

I could check that the battery provides power, however after having connected everything I could, neither the throttle nor the PAS do work. Moving the wheel with the hand and pressing the throttle actually stops the wheel and pedaling does nothing.

Tried every possible setting on the LCD without change. I must add that the e-bike does not have ebrakes while the controller has ebrake connections.

Motor is DAPU M123R3615. No idea on the number of magnets however.

Any hint / idea ?

Thanks
 

Nealh

Esteemed Pedelecer
Aug 7, 2014
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If the motor is sensored then one needs to test the Hall sensors for operation as a failed one will prevent operation but first one needs to ensure there isn't a phase short within the motor or the motor cable.
With the new controller disconnected does the wheel turn by hand easily or can one feel stiff resistance ?
If resistance is strong then one has a phase wire short , if the motor turns ok then do the Hall sesnor testing.
 

saneagle

Esteemed Pedelecer
Oct 10, 2010
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Before anything,make sure that the motor connector is all the way in to the line, not just in tight.

Next, check the motor cable for damage, especially where it comes out of the axle, then open up the controller compartment and check that all the motor connectors are making good contact.

Do not give the motor full power while it's stuck otherwise the controller will blow.You can give power for a short time for testing, but be gentle.

There are three causes for a stuck motor in addition to the above easy ones that I can think of, which I put in the sequence of probability:
1. Controller has self-learning and the owner didn't do the self-learning procedure.
2. Incorrect connection sequence when the controller doesn't have self-learning. You can't always go colour to colour. Typically, one pair of wires need to be reversed.
3. Hall sensor fault- blown sensor or bad connection. Blown can happen, but not that likely.
 

fibag21

Just Joined
May 15, 2023
4
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Before anything,make sure that the motor connector is all the way in to the line, not just in tight.

Next, check the motor cable for damage, especially where it comes out of the axle, then open up the controller compartment and check that all the motor connectors are making good contact.

Do not give the motor full power while it's stuck otherwise the controller will blow.You can give power for a short time for testing, but be gentle.

There are three causes for a stuck motor in addition to the above easy ones that I can think of, which I put in the sequence of probability:
1. Controller has self-learning and the owner didn't do the self-learning procedure.
2. Incorrect connection sequence when the controller doesn't have self-learning. You can't always go colour to colour. Typically, one pair of wires need to be reversed.
3. Hall sensor fault- blown sensor or bad connection. Blown can happen, but not that likely.
Thanks for your reply saneagle. Will check the contacts.
About the controller, as I mentioned, it's a new one I order from AliExpress and I did connect. About self-learning, I read a lot about this but have no information whatsoever about how to do it.

The connector coming from the motor (existing) had the same colors as the cable on the new controller, so hoping this is good. I was hoping to about having to cut and reverse wires, but as you write, maybe I do not have any other choice, but wanting to check other possibilites before cutting.
 

saneagle

Esteemed Pedelecer
Oct 10, 2010
4,261
2,102
Telford
Thanks for your reply saneagle. Will check the contacts.
About the controller, as I mentioned, it's a new one I order from AliExpress and I did connect. About self-learning, I read a lot about this but have no information whatsoever about how to do it.

The connector coming from the motor (existing) had the same colors as the cable on the new controller, so hoping this is good. I was hoping to about having to cut and reverse wires, but as you write, maybe I do not have any other choice, but wanting to check other possibilites before cutting.
I might help to show us which controller you have!

I aleady said, "You can't always go colour to colour."
 

fibag21

Just Joined
May 15, 2023
4
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Hi. OK, it seems that the issue is the controller I had ordered : it needs a Hall Sensor while the motor is sensorless. I'll be ordering a new controller. Could you vise me on the required amps ? The motor is 500W (36 V x 15 A = 500 W). So a 17 Amps controller should be enough, right ?
Thanks
 

Nealh

Esteemed Pedelecer
Aug 7, 2014
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Your old controller was 22a so look for similar controller , you can use 17a but it will have a little less oomph at the top end. Though with a small 10ah battery one might be better off with less current so the 17a would be fine.