Weight versus cost.

[Biged]

In my experience, tubes with Schrader valves won't take 50psi (they blow out near the valve). Whereas tubes with the Dunlop valve (like my wife's Gazelle, which has an effective pump tucked under the carrier) seem to be better.

Changed my Dunlop/Woods valved tubes immediately, difficult to pump up, impossible to check the pressure and crude.
My Schrader valves run at 60+ psi no problem. Lorries run at far higher pressure than this on Schrader valves, for example my pickup ran at 110 psi

 

[Biker44]

Thanks for the reply biker44. I was a little surprised that you prefer the Woods/Dunlop valve to the Schrader

I thought I'd like to pass on a bad experience (2 tubes blown out and ruined) in my Raleigh when I got a better pump and started inflating to 5 bar. I was doing the same thing to Dunlop valves in the Gazelle and having no problem (though, as I explained, the experience made me wary, which is one reason I'm posting the information here).

Fully agree on locks and all other Dutch cycling matters ... forum members buying the Kalkhoff bikes with Dunlop valve tubes often dislike them enough to change them quickly.

At the risk of making myself enduringly unpopular, I think it's possible that Kalkhoff also know what they're doing.

There is another possibility again, that the replacement rear wheel for the Raleigh was nasty, hadn't thought of that.

 

[Hugh]

I guess the difference is that car/truck tyres have separate valves and are tubeless - the Schrader problem on bikes is due to the valve ripping away from the tube it's attached to, as the tube creeps on the rim because the valve's not held down by a securing nut like it is on a Woods or Presta rim. I've had it myself, and also had it when using Presta valves in a Schrader rim hole - the hole's too big.

Tubeless rims might be the way to go, but they lose air much too quickly for my liking.

Sometimes you just can't win :-(

 

[Mussels]

I guess the difference is that car/truck tyres have separate valves and are tubeless - the Schrader problem on bikes is due to the valve ripping away from the tube it's attached to, as the tube creeps on the rim because the valve's not held down by a securing nut like it is on a Woods or Presta rim. I've had it myself, and also had it when using Presta valves in a Schrader rim hole - the hole's too big.

Tubeless rims might be the way to go, but they lose air much too quickly for my liking.

Sometimes you just can't win :-(

You can get Schrader inner tubes with securing nuts, I always use them

 

[rog_london]

My motorbike has tubed tyres with Schrader valves. They have securing nuts as standard. Most 'trail' motorbikes are so equipped. From memory, when tubed tyres were the norm, securing nuts were standard.

On a bicycle they're not common on Schrader valves. It's not really the tube that creeps I believe, there's no reason for that to happen - what might well occur is that the tyre itself creeps, probably due to braking forces. It's likely to be worse if the pressure is not kept up, since it's only the air pressure which forces the tire wall against the rim and prevents movement. Perhaps it's also more of a problem on an e-bike due to the additional power from the motor.

I have once only had a Schrader valve rip from the tube - that was on a front tyre on a mountain bike and was definitely due to low pressure - neglect on my part.

Rog.

 

[flecc]

Schwalbe inner tubes have securing nuts on their Schrader valves, and they are no more expensive than other makes.

 

[Biker44]

... when tubed tyres were the norm, securing nuts were standard. On a bicycle they're not common on Schrader valves. It's not really the tube that creeps I believe, there's no reason for that to happen - what might well occur is that the tyre itself creeps, probably due to braking forces.

The problem I had was the tube bursting near the valve after I invested in a better foot pump which encouraged me to take all tyres to the maximum pressure.

It happened twice on the back wheel of my Raleigh Oakland and at first I blamed the tube. After the second time I blamed the pressure (only 5 bar, c. 75psi!). The local bike shop professed themselves baffled but sold me a new thick plastic rim-tape anyway. Now I'm wondering whether their non-solution was in fact the right thing to do, the problem was caused by a cheap wheel which doesn't support the tube in that area. Though it's a a bit difficult to understand how.

Anyway, I'm nervous of pumping tyres (on regular bicycles) too far now, and I'm sticking to 3.5bar. Except the wheels on the Cyclamatic look better made than some of the cycle ones and it's recommended they're pumped to 65psi (4.5 bar?) which is what I'm doing.

 

[flecc]

Low pressures are the most common cause of valves ripping out of tubes. What happens is the the tyre creeps around the rim under road forces, dragging the tube with it and pulling against the valve junction which is trapped in the rim against rotation. This is sometimes evidenced by the valves being at an angle to the rim surface when there's no locking nut keeping them at right angles. Over time this pulling weakens the valve to tube junction.

Therefore always make sure that enough pressure is in, higher much better than lower, bike rims can stand 100 psi plus easily. However, keep within the tyre's recommended pressure range shown on the tyre wall.