What volts should I be getting and across which wires?

OxygenJames

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Jan 8, 2012
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The cheaper and more expensive ones don't visually look different but the operation is certainly different. If you want more control over the current supplied for a more user friendly experience then you have to go with a current control controller.
OK thanks for that - I much appreciate your responses.

Where I am confused.... the 'KT' controller does not mention it is a 'current' controller - just that the make (is that what the KT stands for?) - is KT - otherwise it looks exactly like any other controllers.

So are all KT controllers 'current' controllers? Is that what you are saying?

If you could please clarify - thanks.
 

OxygenJames

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Jan 8, 2012
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OK thanks for that - I much appreciate your responses.

Where I am confused.... the 'KT' controller does not mention it is a 'current' controller - just that the make (is that what the KT stands for?) - is KT - otherwise it looks exactly like any other controllers.

So are all KT controllers 'current' controllers? Is that what you are saying?

If you could please clarify - thanks.
OK I think I get the idea now.

This bloke here seems to be selling the right controller - and UK based and with support if I get stuck and I can get a display too:


Yes?
 

sjpt

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Jun 8, 2018
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KT is a brand (Kunteng); probably the largest if you are buying a controller separately from a kit or complete bicycle. I'm not sure if all their controllers are current based, I'm pretty sure most are (Nealh may have to correct that).

I'm not sure you have said what sort of motor the bike has. That will limit/change your choice of controller.
If you can't find clear labelling on the motor somebody here (not me) will probably be able to identify it from the make/model of bike, or from a photo.
 

OxygenJames

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The cheaper and more expensive ones don't visually look different but the operation is certainly different. If you want more control over the current supplied for a more user friendly experience then you have to go with a current control controller.
The lcd1 is very basic ideally the lcd3, 4, 5 ,8 or 10 are better .

As I mentioned with the speed controllers you get the max current all the time in each PAS level so you will experience the surging all the time in every PAS level until you attain the max speed of each setting, on a three speed set up PAS1 will be about 8mph, PAS2 about 12 and PAS3 15.5mph.

With the KT it has five PAS levels only PAS 5 gives 100% current, PAS 4 50%, PAS 3 33%, PAS 2 20% & PAS1 13% . It delivers the current (power surge) more gently so you can select the current level that suits your riding style.
My 700c town bike I predominantly use PAS 1 as that is all the power I need, I can still pedal to 21/22mph on a benign day other wise 16mph is quite comfortable.

The difference is a like a gentle push from behind instead of a hard shove.
That's excellent information thanks.

I've found a KT controller on ebay for £46 and an KT-LCD5 for £25 so I am going to go for those.

I'll let you know how I get on once it's fitted.

Thanks once more for your help.
 

Nealh

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Aug 7, 2014
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KT's are set by default as current control but they have a setting if you wish to change to a speed setting, current control is the preferred use for most people unless one is speedster.
 

Nealh

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OK I think I get the idea now.

This bloke here seems to be selling the right controller - and UK based and with support if I get stuck and I can get a display too:


Yes?
How many wires are there in your motor cable ?
 

Nealh

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There are 9 wires in total coming out of the motor.
Good that's fine, the motor is hall sensored with speed sensor as well, the KT you linked is compatible for Hall sensor hubs.
 

OxygenJames

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Jan 8, 2012
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Good that's fine, the motor is hall sensored with speed sensor as well, the KT you linked is compatible for Hall sensor hubs.
Yes that's what I thought - and thanks once more for your help here. Without your advice I would have marched off and bought that £28 controller - and wasted my money - so thanks.