What would happen if... 48V Alien Aurora?

[GSol]

I think I shall do both... I'm going to follow the tips and try to repair mine, but also have to choose which of these 2 controllers to order. I am not sure from the descriptions if there are any differences, could anyone help?

Option 1 at £17.80

or

Option 2 at £25.49

 

[stesteste]

bms battery have good controllers been used on a 350w bms hub they also do a 9fet option maybe someone could say whixh ia best option

http://www.bmsbattery.com/controller/363-universal-brushless-hub-motor-controller.html

edited thx
Sent from my GT-N7000 using Tapatalk

 

[hech]

Either one should probably do for your purpose though you might look at the KU93 controller from BMS Battery(the ku123 might be too power hungry). All of them should run on 48v or 36v okay the difference being where they set the low voltage cutout. If set for 36v running it will work for 48v as well but you're prob better buying a watt meter so you can keep an eye on the voltage that way. You can get them for £25 and they are not hard to fit.

 

[NRG]

I would buy from e-crazyman off ebay not BMS, email him your requirements and he'll be able to advise you and tweak the controller to fit your needs like the LVC or peak current. His controllers are programable so you can tweak as well if you need that feature.

 

[GSol]

It worked!... And scared the crap outta me!

I finally had all the components delivered a few days ago, and went about doing the repairs and modifications...

1) removed the capacitors and resistor, some were definitely already blown/burnt.

2) installed the new components - 220ohm 5Watt resistor; 6 capacitors, all were 50volt, now 63volt - 1000uF, 100uF, four x 47uF. I know my soldering is not the best, tried to keep it as neat as I could with my basic kit.

 

[GSol]

3) Decided to keep the functionality of the 36V battery rack, as my 36V battery still has some life in it, and installed the 48V battery rack on top. I had to remove the spring loaded top holder in order to do this. I spliced in the red positive and black negative so that the battery power will follow exactly the same route as the 36V battery. *I have not completed the mounting of the controller box - that is why it is hanging loose!*

4) Tested the 36V battery and immediately noticed that just fixing the controller made a huge difference. The acceleration is much better and smoother, and goes uphill much much better!

5) Tested the 48V battery (with the 36V battery still there, but switched OFF)...
Went to an empty deserted road on the low setting, which now goes up to 14mph. Once I got there, I tried medium power and that is now similar to the 36V high power setting and hit about 19mph... then... got ready, gritted my teeth, switched to High Power mode, held on tighter and opened the throttle...!!!

Basically this scared the crap outta me!! It managed to start raining just as I did this and on a very slight uphill (still with the weight of both batteries!) the bike was riding effortlessly (and it felt like it was still accelerating) at 24mph! I had to slow down as the rain was actually hurting from stinging my face and eyes!

Switched back to low power - I shall keep it here for riding on public roads anyway.

6) Thought about a few things... perhaps someone can advise me on this...
If I switch on both batteries at the same time, what would happen? They would essentially be connected in parallel, so would this result in a lower total voltage with increased range from higher Amp-hours?

Also, my 36V lights no longer work (with the 36v battery) - have I unintentionally damaged something on the controller? And if I do get them to work, could they still be used with the 48V battery?

And I am assuming that my battery indicator will work with the 36V battery, but not the 48V battery? Or will the 48V battery be drained all the way to below 35V before it shows low?

Thanks for all the advice on the forum, really helped me do this so far!

 

[oigoi]

Sounds like fun Dont switch both batteries on at the same time. If I was you I would have the negative wire from each battery connected together and then put a changeover switch in the positive wire so that either one battery or the other is connected, never both.

Think of voltage as like pressure of water in a pipe. If you connect both batteries at the same time the 48v will try and push power back into the 36v one. Not sure what the 36v bms will make of this.

Not sure about your lights. Perhaps try them one at a time on the 36v battery, 48v might have damaged them.

As far as your battery indicator goes its really try it and see - ride on the 48v battery until it is flat and seee what it shows on the display then.

 

[NRG]

....

6) Thought about a few things... perhaps someone can advise me on this...
If I switch on both batteries at the same time, what would happen? They would essentially be connected in parallel, so would this result in a lower total voltage with increased range from higher Amp-hours?

Also, my 36V lights no longer work (with the 36v battery) - have I unintentionally damaged something on the controller? And if I do get them to work, could they still be used with the 48V battery?

And I am assuming that my battery indicator will work with the 36V battery, but not the 48V battery? Or will the 48V battery be drained all the way to below 35V before it shows low?

Thanks for all the advice on the forum, really helped me do this so far!

Congratulations, a well done job!

To parallel batteries ideally they need to be the same capacity and voltage. If you go-ahead with yours the 48v one will 'charge' the 36v one while trying to power the bike at the same time, I wouldn't do it. Given parallel batteries of the same kind you increase the overall capacity increasing range...as a safety precaution parallel batteries should be connected via a low voltage drop diode.

 

[HypnoToad]

I have been running on 44v lipo (which is 50v freshly charged) for a couple of months using the stock 36v 6fet controller. The capacitors are also 50v and Ive had no problems so far. If the controller does let go, just get a new one and dont worry about any modding. You should get a wattmeter to keep an eye on whats happening.

It's worth bearing in mind that a 12s lipo pack will be slightly over 50v when fully charged.

I'm using a similar 12s (li-ion) setup and I have swapped my 50v caps for 63v equivalents just to be on the safe side.

 

[stesteste]

very nice upgrade is there alot more torque on the 48v ...did u get it on good price ..keep updated on performance when u had chance to use it cheers

bike -alien aurora

 

[mountainsport]

Well done Gsol

You are a very brave man,and form what i can see that you are really up for a big challenge.
How did it feel with that extra kick of speed was it exhilerating ? Nice pictures.

Mountainsport

 

[stesteste]

3) Decided to keep the functionality of the 36V battery rack, as my 36V battery still has some life in it, and installed the 48V battery rack on top. I had to remove the spring loaded top holder in order to do this. I spliced in the red positive and black negative so that the battery power will follow exactly the same route as the 36V battery. *I have not completed the mounting of the controller box - that is why it is hanging loose!*

4) Tested the 36V battery and immediately noticed that just fixing the controller made a huge difference. The acceleration is much better and smoother, and goes uphill much much better!

5) Tested the 48V battery (with the 36V battery still there, but switched OFF)...
Went to an empty deserted road on the low setting, which now goes up to 14mph. Once I got there, I tried medium power and that is now similar to the 36V high power setting and hit about 19mph... then... got ready, gritted my teeth, switched to High Power mode, held on tighter and opened the throttle...!!!

Basically this scared the crap outta me!! It managed to start raining just as I did this and on a very slight uphill (still with the weight of both batteries!) the bike was riding effortlessly (and it felt like it was still accelerating) at 24mph! I had to slow down as the rain was actually hurting from stinging my face and eyes!

Switched back to low power - I shall keep it here for riding on public roads anyway.

6) Thought about a few things... perhaps someone can advise me on this...
If I switch on both batteries at the same time, what would happen? They would essentially be connected in parallel, so would this result in a lower total voltage with increased range from higher Amp-hours?

Also, my 36V lights no longer work (with the 36v battery) - have I unintentionally damaged something on the controller? And if I do get them to work, could they still be used with the 48V battery?

And I am assuming that my battery indicator will work with the 36V battery, but not the 48V battery? Or will the 48V battery be drained all the way to below 35V before it shows low?

Thanks for all the advice on the forum, really helped me do this so far!

hows the upgrade doing now you have had time with it .was it worth it is the grin even bigger now

bike -alien aurora

 

[jbond]

Interesting that the controller "just works" at 48v. Two possible issues that somebody could comment on.

1) the 4 led battery capacity display. This is going to be calibrated for a 36v LIMn or LiNiCoMn battery. Presumably it will always show all 4 lit no matter how much of the 48v batteries capacity has been taken.

2) Over and under voltage cut off. You're going to be relying on the BMS in the battery to cut the battery off if the voltage drops too low. I'm not sure this is really a problem as the controller cut off is a bit belt and braces. If it works presumably there's no over voltage cut off!

The Aurora controller uses a multi-wire link to a splitter on the handlebars. The actual links on other controllers are probably very similar but the connectors will be totally different. So swapping to another style of controller is likely to be a fairly major re-wiring job. People have run the Lyen 6Fet controller running the BPM at 1500w and higher with no real problems. If I was doing that stuff I think I'd go that route with a BMS 48v-10AHr LiFePo headway battery.

My original battery died the death. So I bought a 36v-15AHr LiNiCoMn ally cased battery from BMSBattery. All I needed to do was swap the controller side battery connector for a kettle plug. The battery then slid into exactly the same rack mount. The extra capacity means it's a little longer ans so sticks out the back a bit but works fine. The extra 50% capacity is much appreciated. It's mostly rid me of any range anxiety as 35 miles is easily achievable without any special effort to save power.

 

[Deleted member 4366]

You're right in all your assumptions about the controller. It wouldn't be much to change the wiring for a different controller. If I had an Aurora and the battery started to die, I'd get the 12aH Headway battery from BMSBattery or Greenbikekit (same stuff) because those alloy cased ones can't supply enough current, which is why they wear out quickly. The headway one can give 60amps, so the more normal 25 amps is nothing for it. While I was there, I'd get the KU93 controller to unleash the torque that the motor is capable of, a throttle and pedal sensor because the cost is very low and it means you have guaranteed compatibility. I'd also get rid of that ugly rack and go for a more stealthy solution. This 36v battery and controller will give good acceleration and about 22mph max, which is enough for most people. 48v will give a lot more top-end power, but won't make much difference in the 0 to 18mph, where you spend most of the time.

 

[gerryscott]

Interesting that the controller "just works" at 48v. Two possible issues that somebody could comment on.

1) the 4 led battery capacity display. This is going to be calibrated for a 36v LIMn or LiNiCoMn battery. Presumably it will always show all 4 lit no matter how much of the 48v batteries capacity has been taken.

2) Over and under voltage cut off. You're going to be relying on the BMS in the battery to cut the battery off if the voltage drops too low. I'm not sure this is really a problem as the controller cut off is a bit belt and braces. If it works presumably there's no over voltage cut off!

The Aurora controller uses a multi-wire link to a splitter on the handlebars. The actual links on other controllers are probably very similar but the connectors will be totally different. So swapping to another style of controller is likely to be a fairly major re-wiring job. People have run the Lyen 6Fet controller running the BPM at 1500w and higher with no real problems. If I was doing that stuff I think I'd go that route with a BMS 48v-10AHr LiFePo headway battery.

My original battery died the death. So I bought a 36v-15AHr LiNiCoMn ally cased battery from BMSBattery. All I needed to do was swap the controller side battery connector for a kettle plug. The battery then slid into exactly the same rack mount. The extra capacity means it's a little longer ans so sticks out the back a bit but works fine. The extra 50% capacity is much appreciated. It's mostly rid me of any range anxiety as 35 miles is easily achievable without any special effort to save power.

just to ask jbond, did the 36v 15 ah battery come with a spare kettle plug connector from BMS

 

[jbond]

just to ask jbond, did the 36v 15 ah battery come with a spare kettle plug connector from BMS

Yes it did. It's a cable connector, but it fit neatly in the hole left by the stock one. Even if BMS hadn't supplied they're easy to find from Maplin or such like. What's nearly impossible to find is a panel mount female plug.

 

[stesteste]

just to ask jbond, did the 36v 15 ah battery come with a spare kettle plug connector from BMS

any chance of posting a pic of how the battery fits plz and maybe a link to which battery u bought if its allowed on forum thx

bike -alien aurora

 

[Scimitar]

Yes it did. It's a cable connector, but it fit neatly in the hole left by the stock one. Even if BMS hadn't supplied they're easy to find from Maplin or such like. What's nearly impossible to find is a panel mount female plug.

4723. - SCHURTER - IEC SOCKET - SNAP-IN/1MM | CPC

4725. - SCHURTER - IEC SOCKET SNAP-IN/2MM | CPC

 

[jbond]

any chance of posting a pic of how the battery fits plz and maybe a link to which battery u bought if its allowed on forum thx

bike -alien aurora

http://www.bmsbattery.com/36v/232-36v-15ah-lithium-ion-electric-bicycle-battery-pack.html

The design is almost exactly the same as the original, just a bit longer. It fits onto the same base plate and the lock engages in the same way. The connectors are in the same place at both ends and the only real difference is the use of a standard kettle plug rather than the weird plug used on the original.

 

[jbond]

4723. - SCHURTER - IEC SOCKET - SNAP-IN/1MM | CPC

4725. - SCHURTER - IEC SOCKET SNAP-IN/2MM | CPC

Sorry, we did this once before. The battery uses a panel mount female socket. What's needed on the bike controller side is a panel mount shrouded male and that's the one that's hard to find.

[later] Found it. Schurter Group - Home - Components - Connectors - Connectors (Inlets/Outlets) - 6048