Wisper 803

PhilEB

Finding my (electric) wheels
Sep 9, 2025
9
0
I thought I had bought a used but reliable folding electric bike - now I'm not so sure...
 

saneagle

Esteemed Pedelecer
Oct 10, 2010
9,428
4,193
Telford
I thought I had bought a used but reliable folding electric bike - now I'm not so sure...
It's unlikely that it's a reliable bike, but you're probably correct that it's used folding and electric because if it's an 803, it's a fake. Wisper never made an 803. The fakers are not very clever. They always get something wrong that gives them away.
 

PhilEB

Finding my (electric) wheels
Sep 9, 2025
9
0
I posted to say 803 is a typo - I meant to say 806. I was trying to contact someone on the forum who seems to have considerable knowledge of electric bikes by posting the material below. The system reject my attempted post as spam:

vfr400, excuse me approaching you - I am a little at a loss. I bought two used Wisper 806 bikes - for my wife and I. They had done only a few hundred miles each. A battery failed - so I bought a new one. Now one of them has developed a fault - it cuts our randomly: the controller turns off the power assist stops. I turn off the battery switch, wait a few seconds and turn it back on and it starts again as normal. I contacted Wisper who said it could be one of a number of things: The connector from the motor could be overheating or a controller fault. So after riding up and down the road and experiencing one of its shut-down events, I unplugged the motor connector to find it cool, the contacts clean and it appears undamaged. I then exchanged the controller with the one from my wife's healthy bike. It continued with the sproradic shut down behaviour.
Then I took a look at the behaviour of the controllers on my bike and my wife's to see if there is any difference and there is.

My wife's bike: on switch-on, the power level indicator flashes the first block (to indicate no power level is selected) and the current meter above shows the first block lit steadily. When power is selected the current meter remains with the first block lit steadily until the bike is ridden, then the power meter fluctuates with consumption level. This is what I would have expected.

My bike: on switch-on, the level indicator flashes the first block (to indicate no power level is selected) and the current meter above shows the first block, but it flashed erratically at between about 2 and 3 second intervals. When a power level is selected at any setting, the current meter remains with the first block flashing erractically until the bike is ridden then the power meter fluctuates with consumption level.

Wisper then advised me to go to the local Wisper dealer. The dealer said it would cost me at a rate of about £40 an hour to diagnose the fault and predicted about 3 hours work. It would then cost me the same rate to replace any required parts. And if it was a motor problem I should be looking at a around £300 plus labour to replace it.

I wonder if you might have any words of wisdom on the situation please... Regards PhilB
 

saneagle

Esteemed Pedelecer
Oct 10, 2010
9,428
4,193
Telford
I posted to say 803 is a typo - I meant to say 806. I was trying to contact someone on the forum who seems to have considerable knowledge of electric bikes by posting the material below. The system reject my attempted post as spam:

vfr400, excuse me approaching you - I am a little at a loss. I bought two used Wisper 806 bikes - for my wife and I. They had done only a few hundred miles each. A battery failed - so I bought a new one. Now one of them has developed a fault - it cuts our randomly: the controller turns off the power assist stops. I turn off the battery switch, wait a few seconds and turn it back on and it starts again as normal. I contacted Wisper who said it could be one of a number of things: The connector from the motor could be overheating or a controller fault. So after riding up and down the road and experiencing one of its shut-down events, I unplugged the motor connector to find it cool, the contacts clean and it appears undamaged. I then exchanged the controller with the one from my wife's healthy bike. It continued with the sproradic shut down behaviour.
Then I took a look at the behaviour of the controllers on my bike and my wife's to see if there is any difference and there is.

My wife's bike: on switch-on, the power level indicator flashes the first block (to indicate no power level is selected) and the current meter above shows the first block lit steadily. When power is selected the current meter remains with the first block lit steadily until the bike is ridden, then the power meter fluctuates with consumption level. This is what I would have expected.

My bike: on switch-on, the level indicator flashes the first block (to indicate no power level is selected) and the current meter above shows the first block, but it flashed erratically at between about 2 and 3 second intervals. When a power level is selected at any setting, the current meter remains with the first block flashing erractically until the bike is ridden then the power meter fluctuates with consumption level.

Wisper then advised me to go to the local Wisper dealer. The dealer said it would cost me at a rate of about £40 an hour to diagnose the fault and predicted about 3 hours work. It would then cost me the same rate to replace any required parts. And if it was a motor problem I should be looking at a around £300 plus labour to replace it.

I wonder if you might have any words of wisdom on the situation please... Regards PhilB
I was only joking. I knew it was atypo. I was just waiting for details of what your problem was.

That VR400 was terrible. He made out that he knew a lot, but all he did was look stuff up on the internet and get it all wrong. Anyway, he's gone now and we're real experts here to sort you out.

Let's start by figuring out what you have. Can you show us a picture of the LCD and tell us the year of the bike? Also, where do you live? If it's anywhere near Telford, you can bring it to me to diagnose the problem FOC.

Another piece of information that will help: When you put on a fully-charged battery, does the LCD show it? If it does, what happens to that at the time of cut-out? Does it go down just before, or does it stay high?
 
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thelarkbox

Esteemed Pedelecer
Aug 23, 2023
1,675
520
oxon
£40 p/h seems reasonable, 3 hours to diagnose is taking the yellow stuff.
your bike is fairly modular, a battery pack, a control system, and a motor.
A numpty in a well equipped workshop could Id the area of issue with simple substitutions within 20 mins..

Your in good hands now tho ;)
 

saneagle

Esteemed Pedelecer
Oct 10, 2010
9,428
4,193
Telford
Just another thought about something that could cause your problem. The motor connector near the motor has a line that shows how far it must be pushed together. Pushed in tight is not enough. It must reach the line. Please confirm that it does indeed reach the line.
 

PhilEB

Finding my (electric) wheels
Sep 9, 2025
9
0
Thanks for responding. The bike was supplied to the first owner in August 2021 (I am the second owner).
The motor connector is pushed into place up against the line indicated between the two alignment arrows.
I've attached a few seconds of video of the LCD showing the first block of the current meter flashing erratically (whether a power level has been selected or not). On the other bike which is fault-free, the single block is on steadily at all times when the system is active. As I said, this behaviour in peculiar to the faulty bike whichever controller is on it.

The LCD shows the battery charge state reliably. I don't know whether the LCD shows a battery drop just before the system cuts out because it happens unpredictably and I'm looking down the road rather than at the meter at the time. I've put the bike on my repair stand and turned the pedals continuously to try to induce a cut out so I can monitor it - but it's failed to oblige so far - only does it when I'm riding the bike.

I can't help but wonder if the wiring loom is damaged somewhere. When I first got it, I found the soft SS spring that protects the loom through the folding hinge was displaced into the frame on one side. I called Wisper and they said to just pull it carefully back into place using long-nosed pliers. I carefully examined the loom at that point for damage to the insulation of all the cables and it seemed fine - so I drew the spring back where it belonged.
 

saneagle

Esteemed Pedelecer
Oct 10, 2010
9,428
4,193
Telford
You could try recording the LCD with a video camera if you have one. You can get 1080P ones from Aliexpress for £3 now, or use your phone if you can find a way to hold it in position.
 

PhilEB

Finding my (electric) wheels
Sep 9, 2025
9
0
Hang on a minute please - trying to attach an MP4 file... I've done that (video of the LCD behaviour) and loaded it onto my PC. When I try to attach it it fails - maybe not a supported file type
 

PhilEB

Finding my (electric) wheels
Sep 9, 2025
9
0
Here's a still for now. I'm not sure this forum allows direct video upload does it? Maybe has to be bounced via a video site like youtube...
 

Attachments

PhilEB

Finding my (electric) wheels
Sep 9, 2025
9
0
I have tried swapping the LCD control units and the batteries. The fault stays with the same bike. I could try swapping the back wheels to see if it's anything to do with the motor.
 

saneagle

Esteemed Pedelecer
Oct 10, 2010
9,428
4,193
Telford
Observation of what happens on the LCD at the time of the cut-out would be the most useful thing you could do, as it shows the change in current and voltage. There are very many possibilities, but your description points to a battery connection issue. Places to look first would be the fuse and its holder in the battery, then the blades inside the battery receiver (outer two) and the outer two slots in the battery where they connect to see if there's any sign of burning. I have seen some batteries where the sprung blades in the slots were bent straight, so they didn't make good contact with the blades in the receiver. After that, look in the controller compartment at the front of the battery receiver to see what's going on in there.
 

PhilEB

Finding my (electric) wheels
Sep 9, 2025
9
0
Thanks for this. I think I’ve eliminated the batteries the LCDs and the motors. I’ve tried every combination of those 3 elements on each bike and the fault stays with my bike. I’ll start looking at the items you mentioned. Many thanks!
 

saneagle

Esteemed Pedelecer
Oct 10, 2010
9,428
4,193
Telford
Thanks for this. I think I’ve eliminated the batteries the LCDs and the motors. I’ve tried every combination of those 3 elements on each bike and the fault stays with my bike. I’ll start looking at the items you mentioned. Many thanks!
The fuse is in the battery, so if the problem persisted after swapping batteries, it's not the fuse, so you can forget about that.