Xf001 Bezior phase wires burning out.

[mortama]

Hello all new on the forums but seeking advice.

I purchased a xf001 bezior 5months ago and had to get a replacement controller sent after it blew, two days ago my bike came to a juddering stop and after investigating I found the phase wires were completely melted at the connecting points. I've temporarily installed three new bullet connectors rated at "Max current=24A" but these are still heating up and starting to melt even on a short journey.

I have zero expertise so please treat me as such and I'm happy to follow all and any instruction to find a solution. I'm thinking better connectors are an option but I really don't know.

Bike specs

 

[saneagle]

Firstly, I'd cut off the bullets and solder the wires directly.

Your problem is caused by going too slow with high power. Direct drive motors are not good if you're heavy or if you have steep hills unless you give them high power to go faster. Your 23A controller is a bit low side. 30 amps would be better.

 

[mortama]

I am absolute novice so I apologise for the questions.. by direct solder I assume you mean joining the wires directly together and what would you use to cover the soldered wires?

Secondly can I install a higher controller and are there compatibility issues I should look out for?

Also thank you for your advice

 

[saneagle]

I am absolute novice so I apologise for the questions.. by direct solder I assume you mean joining the wires directly together and what would you use to cover the soldered wires?

Secondly can I install a higher controller and are there compatibility issues I should look out for?

Also thank you for your advice

Yes, cut off the connectors and solder together. Cover with two layers of heartstrings tube.

All controllers work basically the same, but different bikes have different connectors and features, so you normally have to do a bit of wiring and soldering when you use a different controller. Next, controllers generally have a matching control panel, so always buy as a pair. Finally, size matters. If your present controller is in a compartment, you might have to relocate a bigger one. Your controller has a flat connector for the hall sensors. It's very rare to find that on after-market controllers, so you'd probably need to solder all those wires too and cover with one layer of heatshrink.

I'm going to guess that your controller is a speed control one, which always gives maximum power at low speed. You can help it by always pedalling hard at low speed to get the motor spinning a bit faster. Alternatively, a geared motor will be much more efficient and give more climbing power at low speed.

Most direct drive motors are very good for high speed cruising, but not good for low speed or hill-climbing.

Motors run at optimal efficiency at around 75% of their maximum speed. Say it spins up to 30 mph. At 15 mph, it's efficiency would be about 60% and at 8 mph, about 30%. In other words, at 8 mph and max throttle or anything but PAS1 (if you have it), 70% of your 23 amps (around 750w) is making heat rather than motive power.

When the wires melt like yours, they can short out and blow the MOSFETS in the controller, so you might have to replace it anyway.

 

[mortama]

Yes, cut off the connectors and solder together. Cover with two layers of heartstrings tube.

All controllers work basically the same, but different bikes have different connectors and features, so you normally have to do a bit of wiring and soldering when you use a different controller. Next, controllers generally have a matching control panel, so always buy as a pair. Finally, size matters. If your present controller is in a compartment, you might have to relocate a bigger one. Your controller has a flat connector for the hall sensors. It's very rare to find that on after-market controllers, so you'd probably need to solder all those wires too and cover with one layer of heatshrink.

I'm going to guess that your controller is a speed control one, which always gives maximum power at low speed. You can help it by always pedalling hard at low speed to get the motor spinning a bit faster. Alternatively, a geared motor will be much more efficient and give more climbing power at low speed.

Most direct drive motors are very good for high speed cruising, but not good for low speed or hill-climbing.

Motors run at optimal efficiency at around 75% of their maximum speed. Say it spins up to 30 mph. At 15 mph, it's efficiency would be about 60% and at 8 mph, about 30%. In other words, at 8 mph and max throttle or anything but PAS1 (if you have it), 70% of your 23 amps (around 750w) is making heat rather than motive power.

When the wires melt like yours, they can short out and blow the MOSFETS in the controller, so you might have to replace it anyway.

Thank you so much for the details response tomorrow I'll be teaching myself soldering... Will see how well it goes with just the wires soldered for now and research controllers next tha ks once again