yosepower 350w battery and controller replacement

[Jammyb]

Hi, I've been happily commuting for the last year or so on my voodoo marasa with an earlier version of this yosepower kit . Mine came with the KT-LCD3 controller and samsung 29E 14.5ah battery.

For the last couple of weeks the controllers been playing up. Having read a few posts on here regarding the 350W Yosepower motor running nicely with a 48v battery and controller im wanting to upgrade mine to get the improved torque.

Id like to stick with a hailong battery with integrated controller. The best solution I can find is to purchase this controller :

48v without 4-in-1 cable

I'm hoping it will connect directly to my existing KT-LCD3 with current yosepower supplied 4-in-1 cable and directly to the PAS and motor. cables all seem the same. Has anyone tried this controller before?

I know its for the bigger style Hailong battery case so hopefully one of these batteries would work with it. Could any of you help me in the battery choice I have a max total budget of £300 and the controller is £45.
Batt choice 1 48v 13ah or 17ah
Batt choice 2 48v 14.5ah using same samsung 29E i have now
Batt choice 3 48v 13ah seems to have good reviews for the price point

My daily commute is 4 miles in and 4 miles home. When the battery was new I could do 3 days (24 miles) before charging (although the battery would just about allow another 8 miles it was pushing it). The current controller has had the shunt mod done and runs at about 18-19 amps max. I keep the assist on level 3 which assists me along between 18-21 mph and occasionally use the throttle for quicker getaway or more assist on a small hill.

I'm hoping the new sinewave controller and 48v battery would make the startup load on the motor a bit smoother and not sound so rough along with a bit more torque to aid acceleration.

Any pitfalls in my plan?

thanks in advance

 

[Nealh]

Batteries coming direct from China will liable for duty and carriage charge.
EU sourced batteries is an option but still there is the problem of returning if faulty, though some sellers have a UK option for issues.
29E doesn't like higher amps even in 5p format so suggest you keep it to < then 17/18a max loading for cycle life/capacity.

 

[Jammyb]

Batteries coming direct from China will liable for duty and carriage charge.
EU sourced batteries is an option but still there is the problem of returning if faulty, though some sellers have a UK option for issues.
29E doesn't like higher amps even in 5p format so suggest you keep it to < then 17/18a max loading for cycle life/capacity.

Thanks Nealh,

I was trying to find sellers on aliexpress with EU stock, but yes I guess it may be a long return process if anything went wrong. Have to admit my current 29E has served well considering its regarded as a budget battery choice an I've been subjecting it to high amps for over a year now. I can still get 24 miles out of a charge although after 2 days commuting voltage is about 36v so I tend to charge every 2 days. I guess its take its toll on the controller though as that's been giving me all sorts of issues recently.

I'd be happy if I can get the same performance life from the next one. Would it be kinder on the battery being 48v I wouldn't need the amps to be so high.

Any recommendations for an alternative uk source \ solution within budget?

 

[Nealh]

Controller should be compatible if the Julet's match as julet wire sequence is standard.

Your current controller is a 6 fet metal box one yes ? If so they suffer from thermal heat issues, increasing the amps via shunt mod adds to the problem and causes mosfet issues.

The Hailong controller uses 9 fets so should be ok, my 9 fet box ones are fine with no issues,

 

[Nealh]

The 29e option will be ok if you limit the controller amps using C5.
Currently your controller (15a) outputs 540w max (temporary power) or approx. 430w at the wheel, battery is 522wh. A 48v battery only needs 11.25a for the same output in watts.
A 48v controller (22av) outputs 1056w max (temporary power) or approx. 844w at the wheel, battery is 696wh.
As can be seen wh is 33% greater whilst watts output is double, use C5 and limit the amps to 15 and you will have 33% more torque and will be better for the 29e's, you will still get 696wh. At 16a you will have 43% more torque.
Draw to many watts from the battery and it will sag too much and stress the 29e cells.

 

[Jammyb]

Your current controller is a 6 fet metal box one yes ?

Yes it is ( not a separate box but housed in the hailong battery holder ) that makes sense, when it plays up it get all sorts of random things happen : no speedo / frozen speedo / brake cut logo stops appearing on lcd although still cuts motor power / sometimes power cuts to motor until I turn off and on again / other time power jumps up and down from hardly any assist to full assist dispute lcd set at 3. Among other random issues... then it works fine for a day or 2.

pretty sure all controller related as batt voltage is fine, had all connections apart a few times - there all fine and dry (wrapped every join in self amalgamating tape since install)

 

[Jammyb]

The 29e option will be ok if you limit the controller amps using C5.
Currently your controller (15a) outputs 540w max (temporary power) or approx. 430w at the wheel, battery is 522wh. A 48v battery only needs 11.25a for the same output in watts.
A 48v controller (22av) outputs 1056w max (temporary power) or approx. 844w at the wheel, battery is 696wh.
As can be seen wh is 33% greater whilst watts output is double, use C5 and limit the amps to 15 and you will have 33% more torque and will be better for the 29e's, you will still get 696wh. At 16a you will have 43% more torque.
Draw to many watts from the battery and it will sag too much and stress the 29e cells.

brilliant thanks for that 48v with the 29E battery should indeed tick all the box’s then

 

[Nealh]

Yes it is ( not a separate box but housed in the hailong battery holder ) that makes sense, when it plays up it get all sorts of random things happen : no speedo / frozen speedo / brake cut logo stops appearing on lcd although still cuts motor power / sometimes power cuts to motor until I turn off and on again / other time power jumps up and down from hardly any assist to full assist dispute lcd set at 3. Among other random issues... then it works fine for a day or 2.

pretty sure all controller related as batt voltage is fine, had all connections apart a few times - there all fine and dry (wrapped every join in self amalgamating tape since install)

The shunt mod might be too much for the controller.
Also moisture might be an issue as the controller gets all the road spray at the base of the battery.

 

[Jammyb]

Can anyone confirm this controller is the right size for this case ? Getting confused with the name and models of these hailong / hairon case's ??

Also trying to find a template that's to scale, found this one but it seems to be yet another different size. the outer light grey line is the right height but to long, inner line is wrong height but correct length ???