tezdread

Finally got the new controller, took 2 days to get from Hong Kong to Birmingham then 7 (working) days to get it in my hand...boy what a struggle that was. Also I had a surprise VAT added by UK customs of £19. Connected and working fine I'm using the 42 t bling ring. The new unit goes to 40.3 MPH with no load, full PA and top gear. Same as before. I've got the prog cable and read the programming info but need to read it again and do it when I've got more time. Thanks all.

Nice one Grey, good info!

@ anotherkiwi I thought I'd get a quicker and possibly better answer here But I guess it would be good to ask manufactures direct. It would be a re-branding of the frame and forks on a small scale for commercial sale. I think if it was a Cannondale I would say so and be up front about it, because they're a trusted brand (right?) but then if I was to use an Ammoco for example I would only say if asked It is something that interests me...so many questions on this now

Hey, So if I was to buy a bike, lets say a Cannondale. If I was then to get it acid dipped or blasted to remove all paint etc then get it re-sprayed, add a few self made decals and add an electric kit. Could it be sold without any kind of law suit that may come my way? Thx

It wasn't my intention to run it any faster than was good for the unit as I'm not so concerned about speed, 20-25 is all I need. Realising it could go that fast did spur me to get it that fast while riding though. So now I'm wondering if it could have damaged the motor (coil)? I'll fit the new controller and go from there with the prog cable.

Ok so ordered the prog cable, will need some help with that later. Contacted the seller who has replied asking for more info on the problem so waiting for a reply to that now. One thing I didn't mention, not sure if it's relevant but out of the box this unit was spinning the wheel at 40 mph without any load. I have reached 36 mph while riding. When I first setup the kit I was surprised that it was this fast but was happy that it was so didn't think to much about it. I did install a separate bike computer to compare speed and distance and they were almost the same so I know the readout was correct. I have since seen people mentioning hacking the BBS02 unit to get it to go 40 mph so is it possible that the controller I had working was setup in this way? As far as I'm aware the eBay seller just sells the units as they get them. Thanks

Thanks, i will get a prog cable for it. Didn't think about contacting vendor, to concerned with getting it back on the road asap. Will do so but it was bought on eBay so not sure about cover or if I have to send whole thing back but will check. All the connections were together and siliconed

Thanks for the help...ordered on a slightly express delivery and just shy of £90. I'll post back when I get it on.

Yeah I would seem that the controller is done. Tried what you suggested and no power at all...absolutely nothing only 3 months old. What is BMSB?

Nice one, putting things back together now so will try that next. Is there anyone in the uk where I could get one...kindda urgent

Thanks, tried disconnecting the sensor. I've got hydraulic brakes and atm just one sensor on the back...It's not very good in the sense that the space between the magnet and sensor is not easy to get right. I basically lock the back wheel in order for the magnet to be far enough away from the sensor to cutout the motor. I think this is why it is the controller. I was going up a steep hill and had to brake suddenly and that caused the motor to stop without being cutoff. There's no power when I throttle or pedal. I've checked the battery and that works, I've also tried my spare battery and nothing. Power to the LCD and display if normal. I've remove the motor from the bike, opened up the controller part to check the connections and the all look fine, no damage and they're all plugged in together. What else can I do?

Hi, Anyone know where I can get a new controller for my BBS02 36v 500w kit as I think I've fried mine Thanks

I best not lol the fewer things I do the fewer things I'll mess up Was sending it to woosh in a few weeks for them to check it anyhow, I think I'll send it sooner!

The USB used to be able to charge my phone but it doesn't now. When I plugged it into the charger, the chargers red light was on then went to green when fully charged (as normal).

No bang or smoke It's 02.3 with the battery off as well so it looks like no power

Thanks, tested on an AA battery (rechargeable) output is 1.4 When I test the bike battery, it's 02.3. This is when I touch the two contacts after separating them from the controller.

Hey, EDIT: Forgot to say, It's the 36V 15Ah Samsung from woosh. (I called woosh but had to leave a message) So like a complete arse, I put the battery on my bike but forgot to lock it in place (Grrrr) and then it fell out when I hopped up a curb. When I put it back in place and locked it, I was (and still am) getting zero power to the LCD. I have a multimeter I bought a long time ago but don't know what setting I need to use and what the power output should show. Any ideas? I've checked all the connections and they seem fine. Thanks

Hey, I've had a few issues with my kit since buying it last November and it seems to be the LCD that is causing most of the issues. However the motor had to be replaced as it was making a lot of noise and I think the controller was replaced also. I have the Samsung 36v 15AH battery and that is fine for my usage (about 30 miles a day, 40 miles today though) Although the motor was replaced, it seems to be fine for my needs. If I fit another new LCD from woosh, it will be the third one and I've been advised that if I don't take the bike to them for them to check everything I might have the same issues again. I live in Coventry and taking or sending my bike to Southend is far from a good option as I need my bike every day. The ODO resets regularly, today the LCD just stopped working as I was cycling, using a little throttle. Turing the battery off and on didn't do anything straight away and I had to cycle with no power for about 10 minutes (about 30 Kg of bike) before trying again. This time the LCD came back on and I had throttle again but still no pedal assist and now the LCD goes into sleep mode if I don't move for a short period of time. So what can I do? Ideally, I need support that is reasonably local (Midlands) If it is the LCD that is causing the issues, what options do I have in fitting a new\different LCD. Thanks

Thanks, I've taken another look. ATM the sensor is approximately 3-4 mm away from the disc. I've moved it closer so it's practically touching the disc and moved it further away. I didn't know when the Led came on, never looked to see but it's not coming on at all regardless of the sensor position. The disc rotates smoothly and straight when I turn the pedals. It's firmly fixed. There are two grooves on the edge, are they meant to be lined up in a particular wayto the inner chain ring? Can't see how it could have moved though. I've cleaned the disc and sensor but doubt that makes any difference. I'll see what woosh can do. Thanks

Thanks, I'll do that tomorrow. Just thought I'd ask here in case it was something someone could help with.

I don't think I've had a great deal of luck with this kit...today for no apparent reason the pedal assist has stopped working, which is on top of the LCD still not working correctly I'm waiting on a new LCD, which will be the third since November last year because this one like the last, stops giving correct battery info (and also keeps resetting the ODO) I've checked all the connections and everything looks fine. The little LED red light indicator on the sensor doesn't come on. I've checked the magnetic plate and adjusted the sensor (moving it closer and further away from the plate) What next?

Looks good, nice bike. The hub motor is shipped as just the motor then you get it fitted to your own wheel? What battery, LCD and controller is installed?

Cheers Frank, I looked at this video a while back https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=4qhb_j8nxSM. If I need to do this (stripping the motor), it rules it out. I would rather a mid drive and if I could get it ready built with the extra long axle this would be the best option. I assume the battery I have for the 350W Front BPM hub would work with it also. (36V 15AH Square Bottle Battery)? You're probably right about the incorrect measurements of the dropouts, it was a rough and quick measurement. Thanks

Could you post links to them? A rough measurement (without taking the wheels off), my front dropouts are 160mm and the back are 180mm. The bottom bracket is 120mm. Very interested in taking a look at any of those kits you've seen. Cheers

Nice one d8veh, worth knowing!