Wingreen

I've never had a problem and I must have transported my (Woosh Big Bear) ebike over a few hundred miles at least using this type of carrier - though I agree, I wouldnt fancy carrying 2 ebikes. Having said that, it all depends on the total weight. By the way - this is the one (Halfords used to sell it but, apparently, not anymore). £35!: https://www.cyclerepublic.com/exodus-2-bike-towbar-mount-cycle-carrier.html

Actually, I tell a lie (Halfords used to sell it) - this is the one I use: https://www.cyclerepublic.com/exodus-2-bike-towbar-mount-cycle-carrier.html

I use one of these: https://www.halfords.com/cycling/bike-racks/towbar-mounted-bike-racks/exodus-3-bike-towbar-mounted-cycle-carrier

Cant remember what mine looked like but, if you ordered right size of Gaadi (i.e. equivalent size to the inner that was already there), then there shouldnt be a problem. (Maybe pumping it up will sort it all out? As far as "wrong valve" is concerned, that shouldn't be a problem

There should be no problem fitting a Gaadi if you get a puncture. No need to remove the wheel (or loosen it). Pull out the damaged inner tube and tie it up out of the way (so the puncture can be repaired later). There is usually a way of tying it up out of the way of any moving parts. Feed the Gaadi into the tyre. Inflate (which is much easier using one of those small CO2 canisters) and off you go. I usually take the Gaadi out when I get home, deflate it and roll it up ready for the next time I need it. Repair the punctured inner and refit. Simples!

Sorry - no idea. I actually don't use it when I'm cycling. I'm sure others would have some information

I bought the Huawei band 2 pro also. £49 from Argos. I love a gadget and this one works really well in my opinion.

Unfortunately, so far, I have failed to track down a 24v golf trolley that's sold in UK.

Even better! - if I can find another Frog battery "holder" - like the one on the bike, then I just have to fit that to the golf trolley. Then the battery interchanges easily.

Thanks. My current golf trolley runs (badly) on a 12v, 33ah battery with a 200W motor, which is broadly consistent with your guess of 180W. Its designed to do 36 holes but just covering 18 (maybe 27) would be fine by me. My preferred option would be to use the Frog battery with my current trolley but I assume the difference in voltage would make that option unworkable. Thanks for explaining about the charge port limitations. Looks like your idea of having an easily interchangeable set up might work. Having said that, the battery has to sit on its connector box which is attached to the bike so, when I open up the battery I will see if there is a way of keeping the current connection but just adding another in some way, which would be the option for when used on the golf trolley. (Sometimes, however, I do wish I was able to bring myself to spend money, rather than tinkering with things!)

My frog batteries are rated at 8.5aH (8.5 amps for one hour, or 4.25 amps for 2 hours, etc). So, when you say "Your frog batteries can give about 15 amps - maybe 20A max." , do you mean that I would have to use both of them to get this result? A round of golf (at least the way I play it!) lasts about 4 hours. Although I wouldn't be using the battery for all that time (e.g.when stationary and/or when downhill etc), the maths suggests it could provide 2.125 amps for 4 hours. So, I suppose it depends on how many amps a golf trolley needs in order to move the trolley (including uphill sections). I have no real idea, unfortunately, as to how many amps a golf trolley needs.

Once again - thanks d8veh. Its a push trolley, not ride on, so that part should be OK. So.......as long as the golf trolley (motor?) is 24v then the Frog battery will be compatible (the only issue being how far it will travel) - it would not be possible to "convert" the Frog battery it so it could be used with a different Voltage DC motor. Looking very hopeful. However, having said I dont use the Hopper Shoppers, I've got couple of children who might start using them so, ideally, I would want to set things up so it would be easy to change use. Its this type of battery: Excuse my ignorance here but....here goes. I charge it by plugging into a connection at one end - a simple kind of plug. When then fixed to my Hopper Shopper, it connects via a different (more complicated) system at the other end. Now, given that I charge and "discharge" on my Lead Acid battery using the same connection, could I, similarly, connect the Frog Battery to my golf trolley motor using the charging connection? Charge and discharge using same connection point?

I'm determined to find another use for my two "frog" batteries (each of which is spec'd at 24v, 8,5ah) - especially as my old Hopper Shoppers are hardly ever used these days. I'm having problems with my golf electric trolley so I'm thinking I have several options: 1. Find an electric trolley which requires a 24v, 8.5ah lithium battery - but which is being sold minus the battery 2. Find an electric trolley which requires a 24v, 8.5 ah lead acid battery - but which is being sold minus the battery 3. Find an electric trolley that requires lithium battery (but could be various volts and ah combinations) - but which is being sold minus the battery - and install some sort of step up/down circuitry to enable my 24v, 8.5ah Frog battery to work with it 4. Find an electric trolley that requires lead acid battery (but could be various volts and ah combinations) - but which is being sold minus the battery - and install some sort of step up/down circuitry to enable my 24v, 8.5ah Frog battery to work with it. 5. Carry out some repairs on my existing golf trolley (which runs on a 12 Volt 33AH lead acid battery) and install some sort of step up/down circuitry to enable my 24v, 8.5ah Frog battery to work with it. Would any of the above work? Which would be easiest? Do they make sense? Are there other options? Any help/advice/comments gratefully received

I despair. Cheating is one of the most depressing aspects of modern day sport. Plus - this sort of thing can make e-bikes (unfairly) even more of an anathema for the "traditional" cyclist.

Agreed - but retailers/manufacturers insist on making distance/mileage claims and while they continue to do so, it seems to me that these claims need to be based on some standard "test". Rightly or wrongly, prospective purchasers (especially "newbies") really do want to get an idea of distance - even if it only allows them to conclude that "combination Z will take me x% further then combination Y, when traveling under the standard test conditions"

I do agree (sort of) - but for many people, especially those new to electric bikes, they do need a REALISTIC idea of how far a bike will take them on one charge. While each individual's proposed journey will have different ups and downs, some sort of "X miles - on a Y in Z incline" (based on an appropriate test under laboratory-type situation) would be hugely useful.

So it seems - but as has already been suggested, it just needs some sort of "standard test rig" (with no human involved) to come up with some sort of meaningful (though, admittedly, not universal) measurement that can be used for comparison. Presumably something that an academic institution could put together and be jointly funded/supported by all the reputable manufacturers and importers - with a test fee agreed. (Still, maybe we would just end up with the VW/Skoda scenario!)

I have a feeling that this "how far it can go" issue really needs to be placed before a wider audience. Maybe it needs its own thread? (Hmmmm....on second thoughts......maybe not - it might get bigger than the Brexit one!)

I'm too old to be an entrepreneur - and too busy cycling.

There you go: "..... an international standard / testing procedure that can be followed so everyone is on the same page." - Eureka!

Fair point but, if we can get a man on the moon, surely we should be able to devise a test that accurately compares the maximum range of various battery/motor set ups? Or is it like golf shoes - impossible to manufacture any that stay waterproof for more than 12 months!

Do two "wrongs" make a right? Surely the correct approach is to claim for only what is possible (based on experience/testing/etc) not on what others are claiming.

OK, thanks - but just remembered, he has a very steep hill to negotiate so he would need rear wheel or crank drive.

Hmmmm, I'm no expert but 50miles on 10.4Ah?!.

I know someone who might be interested. The website seems to be wholly focused on dollars though. How would it work for someone from UK registering interest? (postage etc....)