haggis

Do both motors produce the same amount of power ?( not torque) Thanks

Hope you're well and I'm glad the Bewo is still powering on . I've tried a few motors since. variety being the spice of life etc Enjoy your Summer. Derek

haggis submitted a new listing: [plain]Q128H 48V 201 rev 800W motor, controller and cable[/plain] - [plain]Q128H 48V 201 rev 800W motor, controller and cable[/plain] Learn more about this listing...

Has anyone dealt with BMS battery lately as I am considering buying a 48V 201 rev 800W Q128H and am keen not to pay excess charges especially to carriers for opening up to check value. The alternative is that someone could sell me one Can the suppliers deal with all fees so that we can just pay them. Any help on clearing this up would be appreciated.

Yes it does sound like you've been unfortunate in the one you've bought. But at least you've got one motor you're very happy with

Looks like you may be a candidate for Looks like the open source firmware may be the answer for you. Good luck

My understanding is that some of the Bafangs have about twice the power but of course that'll mean that they also have twice the consumption and there are other motors out there with twice the power of the bafang, it's just a case of what you want from it I personally have never had a problem with a fully charged battery and mine I 48V 24.5A.

I certainly don't find mine is feeble,the first two levels seem to give very little , level 3 seems to give about half power and level 4 is full power. The terms used for motors like 250W/350W/500W/750W mean nothing. The only way is to know the voltage and measure the current to give an idea of the input power.

Thanks very much,I have now sent off to China for the parts which it appears may not arrive until January!!! I will keep in touch to see how you are progressing. I just wanted a comfortable bike for exploring rougher roads,to be truthful the motor is probably more than good enough the way it is but on hearing that virtually all 750watt motors are likely 500watt,I feel that I would like to unlock that power and put a bit more power into levels one and two

One of the problems with electric bikes is that you don't get the instant feedback you get from a standard bike when your tyres are under pressure That makes a huge difference to range .

I have a 750W which I've now been told is likely a 500W 48V. I would say that the maximum power is at about 50revs/ min and max efficiency at about 60 revs. So quite slow. The best efficiency of an internal combustion engine is near where the most torque is. The electrical motor has very different characteristics

I have recently fitted a 48V 750W tsdz2 to my bike,is there any amateur in Scotland that could update my motor with the open source update for payment? Please contact as keen to upgrade.

Thank you I will do.

My Wisper Classic has a throttle that doesn't work unless i am pedalling. By that I mean without pedalling -nothing,but when I pedal I can alter the level of power of assistance. Any thoughts- Thanks

Thank you, my knowledge of batteries is very limited so go by the graphs I see on manufacturers sites. Could I ask that you look at the enerdel pouch cell graph as unlike other graphs I have seen where cells act in the way you describe with a dramatic drop, theirs appear to be much more gradual than normal down to 2.5. Thanks in anticipation. Derek

I have an Enerdel 48V battery which should be at least 17.5 amps.I started to notice that on a long trip my friends battery which has considerable less capacity was doing quite well against mine. I noticed that my LCD is programmed to shut down at 40V. On reading the instruction manual I see that I can reduce the cut off voltage to 38V, however that still means that I miss out on about a third of the capacity, I think,as each cell is meant to be able to safely go down to 2.5V. I have 13 cells x 2.5V = 32.5V - quite a bit less than 38V So bottom line, if I understand this correctly,is there anyway of programming the LCD cut off voltage to nearer 32.5 V so that I can get the benefit of the capacity I thought I had? I realise that a lot of cells are on almost a vertical drop of output after about 3 Volts but that doesn't seem to be the case for these cells if the graph is anything to go by. Thanks Derek

Yes I think the French system of wheel size rather than tyre makes more sense for a bicycle.

To be truthful it was only within the last year that I decided to actually measure a wheel. It was at that stage that I then realised that the 26/27 700 etc unlike a car wheel actually referred to the external diameter of the tyre and not the wheel. Wouldn't life be easier if we stuck to measuring size by the diameter of the wheel. Go on,be brave, shame the devil, how many others admit that they thought 26 referred to the diameter of the wheel ?

Yes it was a good April Fool but I am genuinely interested as it looks unusual and a quality build

Interesting,What kind of bike is that in the picture?

I thought it would be nice to start a thread or even a heading for listing Handy Tip. I'm sure the technical wizards on the site can decide which would be best.anyway here's my starter for 10. (Perhaps assuming wrongly that there isn't a tips page out there already!) Like lots of people on this forum I have had to splay open my drop outs to take a motor. I have fitted a xiongda which is meant to require a 135mm rear. I measured mine today after deciding to centralise the wheel in the forks and mine is 160mm ! Various methods are suggested such as large wedges of wood and car jacks these are fine if the hope is to take them past their point of elasticity without breaking,however I have never managed this and find that if I am unlucky enough to have a puncture, skint knuckles are the order of the day. Solution : Lets call it the Crofty Method --- A turnbuckle For those not au fait with the word it is used on yachts for tightening the rigging. The benefit is that by turning the centre the outers one with a left hand thread and one with a right tighten together or for the benefit of us force apart. On the turnbuckle you will see that I have removed the two pins and splayed open the ends The Turnbuckle obviously has to be small enough to fit and the benefit of this method is that you can rest the wheel on the drop outs and place the turnbuckle between the spokes and by twisting the turnbuckle spread the chainstays until the wheel drops in.

Now sold ,thanks for the chat and interest shown.

Fife near Edinburgh