djbarnat

Hi all, Please help me! I have a freego raptor (24v) which I use for my daily commute. The battery is not performing like it used to and tends to run out now just before the last hill on the way home. I have access to 36v 13ah battery from a conversion kit I bought before i got the raptor and it is still in good order. I was hoping I could use the 36v rather than shelling out on a new battery. As the controller is located inside the frame I am not sure how to get at it to see if it will handle 36v. So the questions are; Does anyone have any idea where in the frame the controller is mounted and how you access it? Does anyone already know what controller is in a freego raptor and whether it would be rated for aa 36v battery? I guess this may push the speed beyond legal limit so i am hoping that i can limit the speed somehow through programming the display / controller.

Motor cut out on the way to work this morning . Back to the drawing board. New PAS sensor is worth the cost to rule it out so will be picking one up.

D8veh, sorry not sure how to quote a post an Tapatalk. The PAS sensor is lined up correctly and was working fine on the bike I took it off of. However if this 202 setting proves not improve matters I am going to replace it next. Sent from my NEM-L51 using Tapatalk

The P1 setting is definitely having an effect on how my q100 motor runs. The kit originally came with a different motor and P1 setting was 88. When I replaced the original motor with the q100 the q100 was running way to slow at 88 and the speed read out was way too high. The higher I set set P1 with the q100 the more aggressively it seems to accelerate. I tried 202 today and I now get a much more progressive build up in the acceleration and (touch wood) I have not had any cut outs from my initial test run. The motor seems to be less stressed at this setting so will stick with it and see how it goes. Sent from my NEM-L51 using Tapatalk

Thanks Nealh for the helpful post. Will give these settings a try tonight. Sent from my NEM-L51 using Tapatalk

Ok I have made an assumption that because my motor is labelled and being for a 20" wheel that my motor is the 328 rpm version and set the P1 accordingly. However, intermittently I am still getting the odd time that the motor stops immediately after I start pedelling. I have no throttle so all motor initiation is through PAS. Its a bit concerning because when I am at a road junction I don't want the motor cutting out immediately after start. When it happens the motor will not start unless I back pedal a touch and then start pedalling again, as soon as I do this the motor kicks in again fine. Any ideas what may be causing this. Should I replace the PAS sensor and magnets perhaps? Sent from my NEM-L51 using Tapatalk

This is what I've got. So it's a sensor motor? Everything seems run ok apart from the motor seeming a bit noisy and rough. I took it out today on a gravel path and a couple of times the front wheel lost traction and slipped and then the motor would cut out and require me to stop pedalling for a second and pedal again to get the PAS to kick in again. I thought the P1 setting may help these things Sent from my NEM-L51 using Tapatalk

Ok as best I can tell it is about 125mm diameter (4.92 inches). I also found it carries a code engraved in the motor bbz3620a. Not sure if this helps? Sent from my NEM-L51 using Tapatalk

Does the photo I provided in my original post not give this information ? It is labelled aikema akm-13. I have no idea at all how to determine whether it sensor or sensorless. Sent from my NEM-L51 using Tapatalk

Hi there I have now received this motor but I think my kt-lcd parameter needs some adjustment. I am trying to determine the correct P1 setting but I don't know how to find out the number of alnico magnets. Any pointers? Sent from my NEM-L51 using Tapatalk

Doesn't to bad then, will give it a go, thanks ! Sent from my NEM-L51 using Tapatalk

Thanks folks. This will be going into a 20inch folding bike and is already set into a 20 inch wheel. Its used and seller is asking £65 for wheel and motor. He says the motor has covered about 100 miles. Do you think it's worth it? Sent from my NEM-L51 using Tapatalk

Hi I have this controller kt36zwsrt-lcd I am looking at purchasing this motor to fit in a folding bike. Does anyone know if they will be compatible?. The connection looks the same but that is about as far as my knowledge extends.

There is also the "speedict"

Flecc. Now you have pointed that out and I have read the sentence a second time I am not sure why I didn't come to the same conclusion myself. Thanks for the clarification

This brings a further question to mind. As I understand it the regs state compliant ebikes = "Cycles with pedal assistance which are equipped with an auxiliary electric motor having a maximum continuous rated power of 0.25 kW, of which the output is progressively reduced and finally cut off as the vehicle reaches a speed of 25 km/h (15.5 mph) or if the cyclist stops pedaling". If this is the case how can rpm limiting be compliant. My motor is not cutting out at this 15.5mph I can hear it still running. It is continuing to run but just not contributing any more power. Am I taking this too literally? Does the motor have to actually stop completely at 15.5 to be compliant or is the behaviour I am seeing with my bike legal?

In case anyone wants to do this I can confirm you can swap the LCD on the 250w rear hub conversion kit for the LED supplied by pandabikes. I have just done it and it works fine. I reckon it might work on the other hub kits he supplied as well. I got confirmation from Kunteng first who replied straight away saying it was compatible. I bought a speed restricted one form panda. If you make up a special cable you can program the LED using your LCD to push the parameters you want. I prefer the LED as it takes up less space and i like to have my phone mounted in the centre. Also as i understand it to comply to the regulations you should not a have a accessible means to de-restrict the bike (which the LCD provides) so i feel this LED makes the kit a bit more compliant. On the subject of this sellers aftersales support, I have not had any malfunction so no need to use the warranty. I did misplace my stickers that show the manufacturer, max speed and voltage though and when I contacted him he sent me out a new set on next day post (which pleased me). I also like the completeness of the kits and the fact you get all the tools you need. I am not a bike mechanic so i don't have these things lying around. Also in the kit was a USB pen with a video on guiding you through the build which i thought was helpful. Also the seller answered a lot of questions for me throughout the build. As this is Kunteng kit spares should be possible to get hold of. I hope i don't have to make a warranty claim and if i do i hope the after sales support will be as good as the support i have received so far.

Thanks for the helpful reply. That confirms what I've observed since posting. If I set the speed restriction lower on the LCD the motor just runs at a reduced rate. I was expecting it to literally cut out completely past 25km/h and the kick back in once below it but as you say that is not the case. The motor keeps running but only up to a set RPM. Nice to get a confirmation of this, it puts my mind at ease about the regulations.

Hi i have the 250w rear hub kit which i am really happy with. I have noticed kunteng also do and led display (kt-5led880) which is available from pandabikes. Does anybody know if I would be able to swap the supplied LCD with the 880 led display? I would prefer this option if possible as it takes up less space on my handle bar http://www.pandabikes-shop.co.uk/_imgstore/9/4012862389/thumbnail/2zLL-WPWabFrL31J1hS2htNDDVM.png

Hi First of all apologies if this is duplication I have searched the forum and tried to google the answer but I am falling short of gaining clarity. I have the same kunteng controller and LCD as the one in this similar thread http://www.pedelecs.co.uk/forum/index.php?threads/18542/. This thread answers my question to some degree but I am still confused. Is the magnetic (reed switch) speed sensor their just to give me speedometer capability or does it need to be fitted in order for the motor to stop assisting at 25km/h? Or is the speed restriction handled solely between the motor and the controller?

I have purchased the 250w rear wheel kit I have been advised it is set to cut off at 14.8 mph. It does have a sticker. Gonna be fitting it on my Marin San Rafael next week.