Mortlake

When my Yamaha equipped Haibike was new I traced a creak to a loose chainring bolt, recently an identical noise reappeared and luckily I remembered that I had fitted a new saddle, tightening the saddle rail clamp cured the problem. It seems that the various tubes and stays always transmit noise to the BB area. Sent from my SM-T820 using Tapatalk

I've got one, I bought it nearly three years ago, it's very useful and sees regular usage, it's more than adequate for enthusiast use although not really for a professional workshop. IMO well worth it's price. Sent from my SM-T820 using Tapatalk

Be carefully about using any old bike carrier, they are rated for individual bike weight limits, and although they are probably capable of carrying an ebike any accident or damage incurred or caused may leave you without a leg to stand on legally. I use a Thule Velocompact 925 for my Haibike. Sent from my SM-T820 using Tapatalk

I don't know whether this has been posted before, but riders of SDURO Haibikes or other Yamaha x94 equipped ebikes may be interested in downloading the manual from here. https://www.manualslib.com/manual/975488/Yamaha-X94-Series.html Gives all sorts of usefull information including how to display total charge cycles and run diagnostics. Sent from my SM-T820 using Tapatalk

I've read many posts about the 11t sprocket on ten and eleven speed cassettes wearing prematurely, but nobody mentioned replacing them individually, https://www.sjscycles.co.uk/cassette-spares-shimano/ https://www.rosebikes.com/article/shimano-xt-cs-m771-10-speed-11-tooth-replacement-sprocket/aid:483978

I had similar problems with one of my bikes, a combination of moving my saddle forward slightly, decent ergonomic grips and a solid riser stem cured my discomfort, the stem I used was the shortest of these - http://www.wiggle.co.uk/bbb-bhs-25-highrise-oversize-stem/

I can attest to the usefulness of the Weldtite kit, I used one to repair a 5mm flint cut in February and the fix is still holding air even if it's looking a bit tatty now.

Now that you have got the rims taped, lube one tyre bead with sealing liquid and over inflate using the tube, this should securely bed that bead, deflate carefully and pop the other bead to remove the tube and insert the valve, with one bead seated it should make life a little easier, access to a compressor makes it a breeze.

When the control panel is removed from the bike, does it display the time? If not the battery is flat and it will default back to km/h when it's plugged back onto the bike and gets it's power from there. Well that's what happened on my yamaha powered haibike. Replacing the CR2032 battery fixed the problem.

The Weldtite tubeless repair kit works well, fixed a small flint cut with ease, but I must keep an eye on the glue now that its been opened.

66.4 cm is the diameter, a 26x4 would be in the region of 239 cms, the easiest way to do it is mark the tire and ground where they meet then move the bike until the mark intersects the ground again and measure between the two.

Most bike computers use wheel circumference, could it be the same?

The last time I heard something similar on my bike, was after I had replaced the chain and had incorrectly routed it through the rear derailleur arm between the two jockey wheels.

I dug out the spray gun and the nozzle has 1.5 stamped on it if that means anything.

I use a compressor that I bought from screwfix, the Stanley one with tool kit, works a treat, I replaced the inflator hose with a dual adapter from an old track pump so that I can use it for all my bikes and car. http://www.screwfix.com/c/tools/compressors/cat830698#category=cat830698&page_size=20&page_start=0

Try downloading the workshop pdf it should give you everything you need to know. www.magura.com/uploads/media/downloads/FELGEN_WS_07_E.pdf I think what you need is on page nine.