mike tatt

Hi I originally had the AXA Blueline 50 installed on the original fork which had the same screw(hole) config as yours. The bracket fastens on easily - it just rests on the top of the fork with the 'down bracket' hooking over the back to be attached using a short bolt (Can't remember the 'M' dimension) and a spring washer. I had to adjust and lower the top arm of the bracket to give a bit of clearance - but it's got key bolts on all the joints to do this. - Easy job. You can see the bracket clearly on this ebay example https://www.ebay.co.uk/p/AXA-LED-Front-Light-blueline-50-E-bike-BULK-8712864351014/2118446674?iid=272306778476&_trksid=p2047675.m4097.l9055 Fitting the cable was straightforwards - just poked it through the brake cable hole at the top of the downtube and fed it down. There's loads of space if I remember rightly - and there's not a lot to snag on. There's a rubber grommet around the hole - the process is much easier if you pop this out first - then re-fit. Rear wires - fed through of a gap at the rear of the motor housing and then zip tied up the seatpost to the rear triangle. There's no way to route this internally. I ended up making a handle bar bracket for the front when I changed forks - the new ones have no screw hole at all Initially I commuted on the bike as well as off road - and the light was great for the roads and canal banks I was traveling on. I tried it off road - and it scared the pants off me - just not enough illumination for fast single track at night - not fun at all. Now I'm working from home - and close to the wilds (very lucky location for MTB) - so the only road I use is a 500m country lane so I've dropped the light completely and am looking around for some higher power replacements. I've kept all the cabling intact though - hopefully I'll be able to power the new light without having an additional battery pack or recharging to faff with. Hope this helps Cheers Mike

ALSO Thought I'd mention the Yamaha motor 1. When you hit 25kph - there is no motor drag - you are pushing the bike - not the motor as well 2. Cadence - you need to practice getting your gearing and cadence right- especially on steep uphills which vary in gradient - the motor seems to run out of puff when you are peddling like a demon - so I usually aim for a higher gear than I normally would on an analogue bike and pedal a bit slower - It took me a few rides to fully understand what was going on - but now it's effortless. 3. TOO MUCH POWER - amazing but true - in some circumstances - like a standing start uphill in the mud or over uphill rocks. You need to knock the power down - or the back wheel can really push forwards and cause the front to raise up. Once you get going - tap the power up again if you need to. 4. Noise - it's noisier than the Shimano - but no more than the Bosch - and can whine a bit when pushed. TBH - no one else will hear it - and I mostly don't notice it - unless I film my nonsense on my gopro - and hear it on the playback. 5. Instant - push and go - as soon as you pedal - the power kicks in - great when you need control of when you are laying the power down. I've read some comments about it feeling nervy and wanting to push when you are stopped eg at a road junction) - but this has never been an issue for me - wouldn't even have thought of it unless I had read about it I've tried a few bikes from other riders that I know I Prefer the power output of the Yamaha to the Bosch - Instant on I prefer the ability to pedal at a faster cadence that the Bosch gives - although I've adjusted by riding style a bit - so rarely notice. Over 25kph on the flat - Bosch - I didn't like it - - Yamaha - great The Shimano - feels more natural than both the Bosch and Shimano - nice gradual power - but isn't as forceful - didn't get this one to play with on the flat or over 25kph Cheers Mike

I've covered about 1500km - mainly off road - I live close to the fun stuff (500 metres) so hardly have to ride on roads. No breakdowns or serious failures in two years - I keep the chain and running gear clean and lubed - New brake pads once - and keep the brakes bled and tight. The rest is usually covered with mud Quick clean and service (nut and bolt check / brakes etc) every few weeks. I did make some changes to the basic model Replacements / upgrades 1. Tyres - shredded the original Shwalbe in couple of months - replaced them with Specialized Grid's - one butcher (rear) - one ground control (front) I need a new set now for winter - but they have lasted well and the firmer side walls helps with the extra weight of the bike - might replace with same or try something different - maybe something more aggressive. 2. Forks - as I got more experienced & confident - and started hitting harsher ground - I found the original Suntour forks struggled - so managed to pick some Reba's up for cheap (brand new for £100 ! ! ! !) . Not full on hardcore forks - but they fitted my (tight) budget - and are a huge improvement. 3. Suntour Suspension seat post - I damaged my lower spins some years ago - and have bouts of lower back pain if I don't take care Early days riding the bike - I ended up suffering after a moderate or longer ride. A full sus is out of my price range so I tried a sus seatpost - amazingly - it's very very good. I think my technique has improved as well - so bound to help some - but thumbs up TBH - I hated the colour scheme - but I bought the bike at a serious discount and was going to respray it - however a friend had had some spare black vinyl - the sort you can use for covering cars. I now have a black bike - probably adds 500gm to the weight of the bike - but who cares - it's an e-bike - and it looks (in my mind) a lot better - It also helps with scratches and bumps - usual stuff - down to me 'testing my limits' or being an overgrown child. - the vinyl takes the hit - not the original paintwork. Overall - I love the bike - like anything else - there is always a better - more expensive option - but seriously good for the money. If I were to upgrade - I'd definitely consider another Giant - although I've been looking at the focus Jam - and Merida bikes - hmmmm

Great bike - I have a Giant Dirt E+1 - it's a great ride - and so much fun - and still going strong. Have made a few upgrades - but a good all round eMTB to start with - and the '2' - better spec- better colour scheme !! and good value - good choice

Hi Chris Only suggestion would be to check the output with a meter - don't have one here at the moment to see what output I'm getting - will check at weekend.

Is the connector & wire on you bike the same as in Setcion / Pic 6 in the PDF link Mine is Grey & white also - the red / black I mentioned is on the connector that I added (SM 2.5 2 PIN JST) - mine came with male plug at one end - and female socket a the other end - I just lopped off the make plug to create the tails to wire the lights to - the female plug just connects to the grey/ white wired connector on the bike. To test / use you just need to press the light button on the handlebar controller - the light isn't continuous - and needs the button press

Revisiting what I did (it's been a while) - look like mine is the same - maybe could have made the instructions easier to follow for this. I just soldered an extra wire on - so two red wires soldered to the single red cable on the connector - and two blacks to the single black cable on the connector- Basically 'Y' splitting the cable So It must also be pumping the same voltage to front and back Hope this helps

Hi Chris Can't find the tech spec for the bike - but seem to remember that the front can power 12v okay with 6v at the rear. I have an AXA Blueline on the front - rated at 6v and a Busch & Müller rear - rated for 5-15 volts. They work great and are fine for road / canal bank use - did the mod for my commute to work - working from home now so don't use them much now ! ! ! I spend over 90% of my night time riding off road so use a clip on Chinese Cree lamp - which I'm going to wire up properly and test when I get some spare time. Cheers Mike

Looks like Giant have changed the connectors on later models. I bought a ready made up connector - combination of the Farnell Parts you mentioned - as I thought that was correct. I was following a huge thread on a German emtb site which went into great detail - but was focussed on Haibike Yamaha powered bikes. - I presumed that the Giant (being Yamaha driven) would be the same - so I sourced one - - alas - no - the connectors were different. Also no connector anywhere the top tube.. I wish ! ! Moral of the story - basically check the wiring config before buying any parts Thanks for the update - Cheers Mike

That sounds dead boring to me !

No worries Robin, I'm just glad it's of use. I agree that it would be great if Giant - and other manufacturers would supply decent service manuals / information - but I suppose that the franchised sellers might not be too happy about it !

A PDF Version of this guide including images can be found at this link - view online or download. https://tinyurl.com/y8s386fb

Hi Robin I've created a PDF version to download - edited slightly - all images intact https://tinyurl.com/y8s386fb Cheers Mike

What a pain in the bum I'll put together a fresh file - probably a PDF and add a link - then I'll see if I can find an alternative to photobucket and update the page - or add a fresh post to replace Cheers Mike

Seems like the thread has go a bit away from the OP's intention - but certainly lots of interesting points about the related technology, physiology etc. [mention=17271]IronLung[/mention] If you are anywhere near the E. Lancashire / West Yorkshire border - I'll be happy to let you have a go on my e-MTB so see if it does the trick. It's a Giant with Yamaha motor - goes up just about anything I've tried - on or off road - It would at least give you some idea if what you want is achievable. Before anyone chips in - I'm not saying that it's better or worse than any other hill climber - it's just an offer to actually try one out. PM me if you are close mate. Cheers Mike

For some reason one of the images above - removal of Left Hand Trim has disappeared Here it is for reference. http://i345.photobucket.com/albums/p393/mike_tatt/P9162911_ed_zpsiyrusroq.jpg

I've never come across the Orbea brand before - but the bikes look good and the spec is close to many other entry level Bosh powered pedecs. I suspect that for the majority of riders - the standard of kit will be just fine - but any any 'average' parts can always be upgraded gradually to replace the bits that fail through natural wear and tear.

I've just finishing wiring in some lights on my Giant E+ Dirt 2016. There are quite a few threads around the internet that show how to install lights - but these are generally for the Haibike variants. The Giant install is slightly different - some fiddly trim - and different connectors - so I thought that I would share my experience The install is also cheaper as they use simple connectors that are available pre wired - ebay / RC model shops at lower cost to the Haibike JST Splitter cable. - 2GBP for three pairs of connectors. I wish I had known this before I began - I sourced a Haibike style cable from Germany (cheaper than buying in the UK — and from a company that would actually sell me one - unlike some UK ‘businesses’ - Then I opened the Giant up and realised I needed a different connector ! ! ! You can do a Haibike setup for about 2GBP per unit also - if you have a good quality crimper - but you need to purchase the connectors in 10 unit packs - so the price jumps up unless you are making a few connectors. Keeping the Haibike cable for now - as my wife has been looking at one of the Women's Haibike variants - so might come in useful later if she wants built in lights. Parts & Tools SM 2.5 2 PIN JST Female Connector - get one pre wired Usual selection of hex keys X Head Screwdriver Soldering Iron Solder Heat Shrink Tube - small and medium Crank Nut wrench (not strictly needed - but might come in useful) 2m twin cable - I used some from an old broken transformer. Lights Getting Started - Bike in Upright Position 1 Unfasten the lower battery holder by removing the four bolts You need to be able to move battery holder up to release the side trims in the next steps [/url] 2. Remove left hand side trim by removing the three bolts Wiggle the battery connector up a little to release the end of the trim. I took the pedal off to completely remove the trim from the bike - not essential - but gives more working space and stops potential damage. http://i345.photobucket.com/albums/p393/mike_tatt/P9162906_ed_zpsduk5sfqh.jpg[/url] This is the lug fastener at the end of the trim - this is why you need to remove the bolts from the battery housing - so that it can lift and allow the trim removal. http://i345.photobucket.com/albums/p393/mike_tatt/P9162908_ed_zpspjsb2ugh.jpg[/url] 3. Remove right hand side trim by removing the three bolts and One silver screw. The screw is hidden behind the chain set and is difficult to remove. I took out one of the crank nuts and used an old slightly bent screwdriver to reach through the nut hole as it brings the driver more inline with the nut. If you have the time or inclination to remove the chain set the screw is easy - I have my trusty bent screwdriver to help me on these occasions. http://i345.photobucket.com/albums/p393/mike_tatt/P9162909_ed_zpsmkq5ouaz.jpg[/url] Bike in Upside Down Position Don’t forget to remove / tilt the display out of the way 4. Remove the skid plate One bolt under the front stem - and a couple of screws. http://i345.photobucket.com/albums/p393/mike_tatt/P9162907_ed_zpsehzasfoq.jpg[/url] Another opportunity for the bent screwdriver to remove the screws - but much easier than the Right Hand Trim. http://i345.photobucket.com/albums/p393/mike_tatt/P9162911_ed_zpsiyrusroq.jpg[/url] The motor is now exposed http://i345.photobucket.com/albums/p393/mike_tatt/P9162913_ed_zpstq6yh752.jpg[/url] 5. Remove TWO Motor Bolts - Loosen ONE Bolts highlighted in Orange - remove - take care to catch the washers and nuts Bolt Highlighted in Green - Loosen off but leave in place (with the nut attached) so that it can act as a hinge when you lift the motor. http://i345.photobucket.com/albums/p393/mike_tatt/P9162910_ed_zps9kpw5gwv.jpg[/url] When you lift the motor you can - on some bikes tighten the pivot / hinge bolt to hold the motor in the raised position. No luck on my bike so I put a piece of old seat post cutoff between the motor and frame to give me some working space. 6. The Wiring Usual set of cables to connect the machinations of an e-bike. One of the good things about the Giant - is the amount of tube space to hide wires and connectors in - It makes tucking the cables away quick and easy - can't comment on other makes - they might be as spacious. Highlighted is the Light Cable http://i345.photobucket.com/albums/p393/mike_tatt/P9162914_ed_zpszbixfksj.jpg[/url] Here's a pic of the connector you need http://i345.photobucket.com/albums/p393/mike_tatt/SM_2_5_2_PIN_JST_CONNECTOR_zpsbaow92eg.jpg[/url] Other views of the wiring set up for people who like these things. Wires to the Motor http://i345.photobucket.com/albums/p393/mike_tatt/P9162917_ed_zpsnkitglel.jpg[/url] Wire to the Battery Housing http://i345.photobucket.com/albums/p393/mike_tatt/P9162918_ed_zps9ce7xaei.jpg[/url] 7. Cable Routing Front cable - Down through the tube under the battery - same route as the controller cable - lots of space - very easy Rear Cable - There is a slot behind the motor where the speed monitor cable routes - lots of space - very easy 8. Quick test Fastened one of the battery holder bolts back in place and fitted the battery. Twisted the cable for the rear light in place to test that it worked and the polarity was correct Marked the ‘Red’ with a tab of tape. http://i345.photobucket.com/albums/p393/mike_tatt/P9162921_ed_zpsu2nkhvsr.jpg[/url] http://i345.photobucket.com/albums/p393/mike_tatt/P9162920_ed_zpszb3ofmxn.jpg[/url] Repeated for the front lights http://i345.photobucket.com/albums/p393/mike_tatt/P9162922_ed_zps0bawekwh.jpg[/url] 9. Connecting Up From here - it’s a simple soldering job Soldered front and rear reds together Soldered front and rear blacks together Soldered Connector wires (from the prewired connector) to the relevant black/ red Covered joins with heat shrink http://i345.photobucket.com/albums/p393/mike_tatt/P9162924_ed_zpsvdn2dc2n.jpg[/url] Covered the whole connection with medium sized heat shrink. http://i345.photobucket.com/albums/p393/mike_tatt/P9162926_ed_zpsqfpuj45k.jpg Tested - all okay 10. Re-assembly Tuck the cables away - as mentioned there is plenty of space in the tube If you have tested the lighting (who would not ?!?!) - remove the battery and the holding bolt as you will need to be able to move the base battery holder to re-assemble. Reverse procedure for the motor / trim etc I took the opportunity to give everything a good clean also - I’ve dragged the bike through lots of mud, dust and a stream in the last week - It’s amazing where the dirt goes ! ! Noticed some rust on the motor bolts - which I'll keep an eye on - and add a spot of grease here to my maintenance regime. Hope that this helps someone Cheers Mike

Following up on Phill's thoughts on the Giant Road E Thought I'd share similar on the Giant Dirt E After three weeks with the E+Dirt Getting used to riding again - ‘Bike Craft’ and confidence improving rapidly. Love the bike - but if I could change anything - and these are minor blips - and some probably caused by me still getting used to riding again after quite a few years break. 1. Colour - not exactly subtle - a bit bright for my tastes and will be using it for a commute shortly so want it to be a little more anonymous - vinyl car wrap ordered - so it will soon be less yellow and more black. Will hopefully protect the paint job as well. Yes - I bought it - I knew it was yellow - but the best part of a £500 discount over rrp made me colour blind. 2. Obviously the comp - Learned to live with KPH — and it might even help me when i do my next tour around Europe - but it’s also not removable - hmm - bit of a their magnet maybe. 3. Agree with Phil - rubbery controls for power mode seem stiff - but it feels durable - and I have to say that it is actually quite responsive - once you get used to it - press and forget - no worries - but not as well designed as some of he other Yamaha setups I tested. 4. Off road - the extra weight seems to make it more challenging when dragging the bike around a steep down hill corner at speed - to be honest this is probably more down to my lack of skill / experience than the bike - but the extra mass seems seems to add to the momentum. Someone with more experience would probably have no issues. 5. Gearing: 24/38 Cogs. 24 seems to do nothing for me - except getting my legs spinning (Cadence?) with not much effect - unless on the steepest slopes where it may help a little - but then I have a Yamaha motor - which gives enough help to get me up the steepest incline I’d be comfortable climbing. I tend to keep it on the 38 - brilliant for scooting up and down some of the rougher tracks and most trails - you need to put in a bit more leg work at times - but I like that - all part of getting fitter. BUT - when I get on the road I feel that when I’m in gear 18 and over the 25kph limit - on the flat could do with gear 19 - or 20. Not sure whether I need a bigger or more toothy cog - but 95% happy with it - so one for future research. 6. The seat post needs to drop an extra inch - it’s too long (for me) - and I can’t find my hacksaw ALSO Thinks I like Climbs hills superbly - better than I had ever hoped - has honestly opened up a whole new world to explore. Sure footed over rock ground - although I can now appreciate the concept of rear suspension ! ! Brakes are very good - a bit sharp to start but have bedded in well Comfy riding position - apart from the seat post being too long Good on the road - even with the knobbly tyres (Schwalbe Rapid Rob’s) - fork lock out helps on smoother roads - If I end up doing more road work - I might change the tyres - but not yet - having far too much fun. Durable - took quite a tumble on week 1 - a dented peddle and a few minor scuffs - I was a bit worse off - lol Cheers Mike

Thanks for the feedback Kiwi - and the useful link Cheers Mike

Hi I'm hoping to hardwire lights into my bike - yamaha motor Output voltage is 6v front and back - Y-Splitter cables available for less that 20 Euros (as long as the £ holds out ! !) Initially looking at one of these. Busch & Muller http://en.bumm.de/products/e-bike-lights/lumotec-avy.html Which gives 40lux output - 1.Their kit looks to be decent quality - but I'm not sure it this would be bright enough at 40 lux - can anyone advise on this - as some lights are marked up in lumens - others in Lux - is 40 Lux okay for riding along the canal commute & country lanes with no street lighting. 2. Many of the brighter 'value' lamps available ebay/ online seem to have 8.4v battery packs. What would happen if I wired these into a 6v system - is it just a matter of duller light - or a complete failure to power. Was thinking that I could just install one of the cheaper LED headlights - no need for battery or charger - (would need to 'craft' a bracket to keep it semi/permanently secured - but not much of a hardship) - and save a few pounds. Any thought appreciated Mike

I took a similar approach to you Phil Not into shouting the odds unless it's needed. I received a similar reply from Mark at Giant this morning, shame there is no fix The upside is that it seems that Giant are a company who actually do respond - whether it's good of bad news - I've previously dealt with a few companies who lack any understanding of Customer Service ! ! Cheers Mike

I agree, an annoyance - and won't ruin the fun I'm having with the bike - it really is a cracker.

Thanks for the link Wicky Is this the model with a separate battery back ? Might be easy to convert if it is Cheers Mike

I've been looking at the Busch & Müller lights - they seem decent quality and set are set up to work with e-bikes. Will have to make sure that they are bright enough - depending on which commuter route I take - it might get a bit dark. I'd prefer cabled in lights - I already end up carrying far too many cables, chargers etc - and seems a fairly simple job to wire them up.