gwing

I don't buy the safety argument. I can regularly do 35mph going down the hill my house is on without even pedalling so what difference will a 20mph limit make? That said I think the current legislation is remarkably sensible. There will always be folks that want to go faster whatever the cutoff limit is, but the current limit is already faster than most riders can sustain, entirely practical, and going significantly faster will eat into your battery range.

Having just finished fxing the same problem on my wife's cube, do try wrapping a tight bungie cord around the battery and frame to keep a solid positive contact there. If that stops your problem you then have to do some adjustment to the battery holder to fix it properly (torx driver needed).

It does indeed seem a 30mph class isn't going to happen. What would be nice, and perhaps more achievable, might be a 20mph class, hopefully not needing plates/ insurance/tax/mot but maybe needing a driving licence or some sort of proficiency test/training test as a price for the extra speed. That would seem to fit in with government 20mph policy, harmonise urban bike and car speeds, and still not go faster than can be achieved on a non powered bike. It seems also a sensible level as it would still allow a reasonable battery range and allow road cycling enthusiasts to generally keep up better with their younger/fitter/faster pals on road bikes.

Say rather that, at current technology levels, 500 Wh batteries are at a popular sweet spot for range/weight/cost. As battery capacities increase we'll soon be expecting 600, then 700 Wh at the same sort of price and weight as we have now. I think there will probably be less demand for smaller, lighter, cheaper batteries at 500 Wh capacity but who knows?

You did ask "Why would anyone want to continue pedelling, when they are pulling the brake?" , I just suggested one possible reason why you might want to do this. In fact I was doing just that last night, dabbing the brake while riding along to get rid of the annoying noise.

Wow, that's a serious bit of kit!

Bit of stuff in the disk brakes making an annoying noise and you want to get rid of it?

You'll want the bend to be similar but I'd say don't worry about the spokes being too long, you can expect to cut a bit off the end unless you're lucky enough to have an exact common size that is readily available. Do thread a nut on first before cutting the thread so that it cleans up the end when you remove it after cutting.

Thanks. Is that from the 'real' specs though or a vendors website? All the online sites I've looked at simplistically divide the max weight by number of bikes to give a maximum bike weight no matter which brand of rack I look at- and which is probably nonsense in most cases.

Thanks, I had been looking at the more expensive Thule carriers (and the Atera Strada which looks as if it might perhaps be better), but hadn't really considered these more budget 9403 ones. Given that this ebike lark is proving rather expensive already having just bought two bikes, and a dog trailer, and accessories, and a shed to put them in, and a concrete base for the shed, and a gate and path constructed to give access for the bikes and shed building materials, and I don't even have a towbar fitted yet - I don't mind saving a bit Looking at some reviews of this rack there are a few folks saying that it can move/flop around at speed when the road surface is uneven, is that unlucky/incompetent assemby/paranoia or just a limitation of the budget model? P.S. The cube bikes we have are barely over 20Kg each, even with the batteries which I would remove, so loading should be well within the limits of most of these racks I think, including the 9403.

That had occurred to me, but then there is no room for the dog, nor her 'chariot', nor any luggage. Actually, in emergency and after removing the front wheels, I did get *both* bikes inside the car but it was a bit of a struggle and they did get scratched in the process.

Why two magnets?

A bit of Mars oil rubbed sparingly into the underside of the saddle will start to soften it nicely and make it easier on the bum. A smear of the same rubbed on the top helps to stop it absorbing rain.

Indeed, and there is also a long and established canal working boat tradition where a bike is carried so that someone can cycle on ahead of the boat and ready the locks. 'Wheeling' I think they call it. AFAIK all canal tow paths are open to bicycle traffic, private wharfes excepted.

Just browsing around I see that on Alibaba there are 3rd party alternatives for the current 400 and 500 battery models starting to appear, such as here https://www.alibaba.com/product-detail/36v-replace-Bosch-power-pack-500_60705126866.html?spm=a2700.7724857.main07.241.11c4cee2crHG2Z I'm very impressed with the range from the 500 batteries we both have so don't need one of these immediately. Hopefully someone else will have taken the risk of first purchase before we start touring in the spring and I get tempted

Neither, at least for me, just looking to see if there is an alternative that is good enough and cheaper. Just like I do for fuel for my car ...

It's easy really. You either cycle along at just below the cutoff speed and enjoy it or, if you are able to sustain above the cutoff speed without assistance, just drop to whatever gear is best for you at the speed you want to do. The problem really is when that speed you can sustain is just on or very slightly over the cutoff which I guess isn't actually the case for most of us, trouble is when that motor is still providing us a bit of assist as it ramps down above the cutoff we all feel we are supermen and can do more . Personally I aim to either bimble around at 15ish or do 16.5++ if I'm not tired or have some hill assist.

Have a closer look and you'll see it's 150Wh capacity for the battery but 150W (not Wh) from the hydrogen generator ( i.e. it can produce 150W to either drive the bike or charge the battery until the available hydrogen runs out). The actual Wh capacity equivalent is going to depend on how much energy can be extracted from the tank's hydrogen and I've no idea what that would be - considerably more than 150Wh I would think though.

Where do those 5.4ah numbers come from? In the original linked article I see 150 Wh@36V for the battery and 2 litres of hydrogen. Is there some formula that translates 2 litres to 5.4Ah?

Despite the negative opinions I can see that this *might* be ideal for the postie use case. The great attraction of the hydrogen fuel is that you can instantly recharge it, so deliver a bag of mail, return to base to pick up another bag and top up the hydrogen seems that it might be a promising model. It wouldn't suit the type of riding I do at all but that's not the point ...

I guess it depends on what you want. We have a couple of these bikes here as well and, before owning them, I was sure that I would be fitting a dongle within the first couple of weeks. Now, being a couple of weeks and quite a few miles on them, I'm feeling that there is no need for a dongle at all and I'd rather have the extra mileage than the extra speed. That said we live in a very hilly area and ride for pleasure on small roads and single track where we can. If I was commuting on larger roads I would for sure fit that dongle to cut a bit off my commute time.

First check Hiya, I suggest first rotating the wheel and watching the gap between rim and pad. If this changes as the wheel goes round its something to do with the wheel & we need to start there. On the other hand if the gap remains constant its most likely (although there are other more obsure possibilities) to be brake adjustments. So which is it? Good luck, Rob.

Err, yes. And for that reason I am favouring a more minimalist control setup myself BUT On a motorbike you have a clutch to disconnect the engine On a motorbike you have a neutral gear to disconnect the engine On a motorbike you have an ignition switch to stop the engine On a motorbike you may also have a kill button to stop the engine On a motorbike, if it stalls it stops, instead of continuing to apply power

Get those legs moving :-) You may have something here Vicki, but maybe we don't need those needle things. I just happen to have a SCENAR device that amongst other things can trigger muscle contractions and where I can set the stimulation frequency up to 200hx. Now lets think, 200 pedal revolutions per second with 700c wheels and typical gearing should work out at, well over the speed limit for cars let alone e-bikes I think :-) Not actually being an e-bike but an e-rider should avoid that pesky limit anyway. We may be on to something good

They are an insane price but the 'Thudbusters' come with a set of 'springs' for different weights and also overcome the difficulty with friction you mention. I have their smaller version on a MTB and its very nice indeed. Perhaps I also ought to mention that I got it cheap