gmal2017

Here are the test results so far Main motor wires Yellow = 9.24K Blue = 9.23K Green = 9.19K Hall wires Blue = 5.37K Green = 5.36K Yellow = 5.37K Red = Not registering any resistance Black = -0.00

The 6 mosfets I’ve marked in black do seem to be faulty, I tested them incorrectly last time using my negative lead on the gate / drain and positive on the source when, as I did in the first place, it should have been the other way round. There is no power from Gate to the Source whereas on the other 6 there is. So.. any chance anyone has info on these conductors as a replacement? I can’t find any info but they did come out of a 110amp controller.

I just checked to see if there was resistance not how much there was. I’ve checked the wires but all seems ok and no I didn’t drop it.

Just noticed this on the back of the controller, this is the soldered joint where the negative lead comes in from the battery. Would this be an issue?

Could the phase wire sequence go wrong? Everything was working ok before this happened and I hadn’t had anything out or changed any settings etc. The only thing I was doing was transferring the battery from this to my daughters buggy and back again. The controller has never been moved, it is in a sealed off area to the rest of the scooter. I’ve checked for loose connections but I can’t see any. Out of the 3 main power wires to the motor the middle wire ‘green’ seems to draw a higher current as it gets very hot. Looking at the back of the controller the soldering is a cheap looking messy job.

Update..... So I’ve put new batteries in my multimeter as it wasn’t giving correct results for mosfets I knew to be working. Re-tested the old ones and they’re all fine not sure if it was down to the meter or not but miraculously they are working. So, were to look now? The motor still judders as though it wants to turn but can’t , it freely turns by hand and up until the other day never had a problem.

Hmmm, so they might work but aren’t necessarily suitable for this application? I’ve also a full set of the mosfets in the picture below, they came out of a 24v 110amp controller but I can’t find the specs on them anywhere.

These are the ones I have spare These are the existing ones. I’m not too clued up on the difference

I’ve a few of these laying about, do you think they will work for now? IRFZ44N

Just looking at the prices of the fets you suggested, the cheapest place I can find ‘RS Components’ they’re £4 each, so if I replaced all 12 I’m looking at a bill of nearly £50! I might as well buy a 2000w controller from flee bay for £60

It’s running 48v 4 x 12v 12a batteries. They don’t have lcd displays just a basic red, orange, green battery power light near the throttle. I was thinking of taking it up to 60v or 2000w of power but for the difference in speed to cost etc it’s probably not worth it.

Firstly, I know this is an Electric scooter but I’ve found this site really helpful with my bike and everyone on here is very knowledgeable, so I’m hoping someone can help out. My Chaos 1600w stopped working the other day, the motor would jutter a little as though it was going to spring in to action but would then stop. I stripped everything down and found that when the throttle is twisted and the motor tries to turn, one of the main wires to the motor would get very hot. Out came the multimeter... few parts tested and then the mosfets, first 2 fine next 2 not working, next 2 fine then next 2 not working, next 2 ok then next 2 not working, “I’ve marked the dud ones with a black spot on the picture”. Strange but may be why the motor will try to turn but doesn’t have the umf to do it. Obviously I’m going to replace them but I’m also thinking of upgrading all of the mosfets to prevent future problems but my question is this. If I upgrade them to a higher voltage will it A. Do any damage? B. Make the scooter quicker? C. Give me further problems? I’ve tried to include pictures of both the controller and the mosfets to give a better idea. Can anyone recommend the correct mosfets to change them with? Hopefully it only needs these replaced and not the whole controller £70!! Or I might just by a 2000w and upgrade everything. Thanks for any help

Does anyone know where to get a genuine Cyclamatic controller from?

Quick update. I've stripped the throttle and brake down and this is where the wires go. Red and Yellow both go to the pas button Black and Blue go to the throttle Orange and Grey to the front brake 'they're cut off already from factory' White goes to rear brake Green goes to power lights I'm not 100% sure that the orange wire from the controller is the brake , he said it would be the purple, black and white connector but which wire from it?

I think it's likely that the PAS wires are incorrectly attached to one of the throttle wires I just don't have a clue which wires are which and I can't find anything from Cyclamatic to tell me which wires are which. If I had a diagram I could try with the box to link the correct wires. I don't think the magnet disc is a problem just yet as it's only an issue when I press the pas button and regardless if I pedal. Stumped!!!