NJS

I guess the PPI cash cow is coming to an end and the lawyers are looking for a new one. What better than a "stick it to the man" incentive, and all on a no-win-no-fee basis. Perfect!

That makes no sense. On the bike or on your back, you still have to accelerate and brake its mass. On the bike, the frame,wheels and tires take the strain; on your back, you do. And having mass flopping around high up on your back goes against every rule of mechanical efficiency, safety and ergonomic design. I guess you're arguing the man rather than the logic; and would claim that shouldering your wheelbarrow saves on tyres.

Fair enough, but presumably most of that cannot actively benefit you; the 'spare' battery pack could.

Why carry dead weight, when you could parallel the packs, spread the load across them and extend their lives?

I'd put a little silicon inside the nose of each gland from the inside, and wrap some self-amalgamating tape around the outside; and try it for a while. At worst it cost you £5 or £6. Don't forget to grease the seal before you close up the box.

No one was suggesting it was a substitute for potting compound. Used inside the gland, where the gland has removed the vast majority of flexing; or on the outside of the gland and over-wrapped whilst still wet with self-amalgamating tape or shrink wrap, it'll last months for anything other than full immersion. And its cheap and easily replaced. Potting's great if you never need to undo it.

Seal the gland with silicon sealant. If he needs to take it apart, it peels off.

They make 'good' fleet cars, are usually well maintained and then hit the market after 2 or 3 years at 1/2 to 1/3rd their original price.

Are bare cells from NL any good to you?

Several of those axle shear failures have been definitively identified as having originated at pits caused by corrosion in the open hollow steel shafts. Preventing that corrosion would prevent those failures. Waxoil coating the interior of those hollow shafts would have prevented the corrosion. And that was all I suggested. However, aluminium also corrodes. Place a crystal of road salt on a piece of aluminium and add a drop of water, wait a week and see what happens. A waxoil coating would also slow down, if not totally prevent, that also.

Most of those crank failures a shear failures. Shear failures start with stress risers. Rusting causes pitting. Waxoil is not "lubrication", but rather a rustproofing fluid used to prolong the life of steel. It works by excluding water and air from bare metal and by slowing the progress of existing surface rust using phosphoric acid rust inhibitors. No rusting, no pitting. No pitting, no stress risers.

He's a small sample of hollowtech II failures findable on the web. All separate, all verifiable. Many severe injuries. At least one death. A small percentage of those is use; and if those odds are acceptable to you, ignore this. If not, an ounce of prevention just might save you from becoming a statistic. http://s32.postimg.org/5rdqbbp39/unknown.jpg http://oi57.tinypic.com/2ms35hh.jpg http://www.killasgarage.bike/wp-content/uploads/2017/05/Broken-Crank-Spider.jpg http://farm9.staticflickr.com/8395/8610646958_dc1056cb74_c.jpg http://forums.roadbikereview.com/attachments/components-wrenching/315662d1471225324-ultegra-crank-left-arm-falling-off-crank.jpg http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-AbUxa6XGnW8/TcLOqfX_p8I/AAAAAAAAAVc/hqk4Tj1N3-0/s1600/good+shot1.jpg http://www.timetriallingforum.co.uk/uploads/monthly_05_2009/post-4715-1241647179.jpg

Uh huh!

£10/year for peace of mind an overreaction. Hm. If you say so.

I'm pretty sure that Alan Farrina would have said the same right up until the day his sheared. For the sake of a quick spray inside once a month -- say a £10 can a year -- I'd rather that effort than end up under bus if it let go in traffic. Maybe he was unlucky, but it doesn't seem to be an isolated incident.

I think plastic end caps would likely trap the moisture in rather than keeping it out. I can't help on the other question.

I'd suggest spraying the inside with waxoyl spray or similar regularly as they are apt to rust internally, pit and then shear.

That's IT! How fickle memory is

No.I had vague recollections of a corny old scifi plot where the hero disabled the baddies "supercomputer" by asking it one question; "Why?". The computer melted down trying to compute all the logical implications of the question. My memory told me that this was Micheal Caine as Harry Plamer in the Billion Dollar Brain from 1967; but looking it up just now, probably not. Possibly a plotline from an episode of Man from Uncle. I remember that Ilya Kuriakin was something of a computer wizz; and the plotline of killing the evil computer by asking it an impossible question is corny enough for that show

A summary of the Brexit thread (from someone who hasn't even looked at it). Some people are for brexit. Some people are against. No one knows what the outcome is going to be. My prediction (I'll accept I was wrong, if I am, no less than 5 years from now. I'f I haven't kicked it before then.) It'll be a bit tough for ~1 year; then it'll get easier; then it'll be -- what was all the fuss about?

I was warned that using spokes that were more than a milliletre or two longer than needed could lead to the nipple bottoming out on the thread before the required tension was achieved. As the length calculators (I used several) all agreed that I would need a 2-3mm difference left to right, I opted for 18x two different lengths. FYI: These guys supply 14g spokes in a variety of colours and cut to the nearest 1mm, for a good price, nipples included, and fast, free delivery. For anyone doing this for the first time, my top tip is to buy a spoke spanner that exactly and only fits the spokes you are going to use. I already had a 4-in-one spoke spanner and thought it would do the job. It did, but I spent about half the time of the entire job re-orienting the spanner to the right way around. Painful.

Doesn't that mean that the Q128C diagram would have different offsets from the Q128H?

I thought I remembered you saying that the Q128C had (30%) narrower stator/rotor/magnets than the Q128H. But maybe that was the Q100C/H? Or have the designs of the Q128C/H changed again recently? (I know(read) the early Q128H had single stage gears and was relatively gutless back around the 2012 mark. But was then upgraded with dual stage reduction and (in some speculations) better magnets.)

Is that a cassette version of the H, or just the normal Q128C?

I have this. I don't remember where I downloaded it from. Update: I found it here