point5clue

Hi All, I installed a Swytch on my Mum's bike. Mum love's it, and blow me, after years of trying to persuade my wife to let me covert her bike without success, after one ride on my mum's bike she's sold. Thing is, her curvy ladies frame doesn't have a suitable point to mount a conventional downtube battery, or even a bottle type battery. (I'm talking about the bike here guys!) I've signed up for another Swytch drop, but last time it took 7 months from signing up to delivery. (not to mention its quite pricy for what it is, though nicely integrated) Are there any other handlebar mounted kits (or a kit with a bare battery that could live in a handlebar bag ?) that anyone could recommend ?

In the end I managed to get a couple of linked cable ties around it - though it tapers in that area, there was a lug for the cable management on the far side underneath which stops it from slipping too far, and with a bit of give from the foam pad it could be tightened up well enough. No holes drilled and no molten metal !

I’m not a welder but a bracket fixed to the bolt is well within my capabilities. I will have a play. Thanks for all the helpfull suggestions people

Hi Neal, The chain stay tapers in quite severely at the critical point so it is tilted away from the plane of the ring. It didn't seem to operate reliably, but it might be worth having another go. It was also fouling the kick stand - if that was the only issue I could perhaps get a new kickstand that connects to the chain stay.

Hi All, I'm converting my Mum's Islabike Joni. Its the perfect bike for her has it has a super-low step through. However this does mean that it is very thick tubing around the bottom bracket because there is no crossbar. Its currently stuck on with two self-adhesive foam pads. There is no obvious way to cable-tie it on - lots of angles and the diameter of the tubing reduces in that area so anything attached slips as it is tightened up. Any ideas for a good fixing method? I'm reluctant to drill holes unless TINA

The Yose Power 350W rear kit with a 13Ah battery is only £352 including delivery. I suspect with BMS the price would not include a tax demand from the courier so may be more expensive, and the integration is all at my risk. Any experience of Yosepower and demands for extra money along the chain ?

Hi All, I started out with a Q100C rear wheel with a S06S/S-LCD6 controller, but upgraded to a Q128C for a bit more speed. This was a few years ago now. Everything has been great and I couldn't be more pleased with the set up. I had the bare Q128 motor build into a wheel by my excellent local bike shop so had the Q100 ready to go - always hoping to persuade my wife to let me tackle her bike. Its only taken a few years, but I finally have the go ahead (one tiny benefit of petrol at near £2/L) So, firstly a sanity check - is buying the rest of the components to work with the motor sensible or would it be better to get a full conversion kit ? I've created shopping list on bmsbattery dot com - this was where I bought most of the previous items - is this still recommended ? - is getting the battery from BMS a good idea ? - do I need a cable from the battery to the controller ? - can I use the existing charger I have with this battery (can't see what sort of socket this battery has) hoping it will fit my 2.5mm jack? - anything else I'm missing ? SHOPPING CART S06S 250Watts Torque Simulation Sine Wave Controller £18.18 S-LCD6 LCD Meter for S-Series Controllers £26.52 Color: Black HWBS - Hidden Wire Brake Sensor 1pcs £4.55 Dual Hall Sensor D12 Signals Easy Installation PAS £5.30 Assemble: Left 36V10AH/11.6AH/14AH Hailong-II Bottle Battery Pack £125.02 Cells / Capacity: 2.5AH High C-Rate / 10AH Q-Series Motor Cable £3.79

Just to close off the thread - I did indeed contact Jimmy - it took me a while to decide (waiting to be sure I still had a job to cycle to eventually) but I now have a fully re-celled battery returned to me £375 including collection and return. I did a 'range test' on my regular commute and the capacity seems at least as good it was originally. I have now put in a once a month calendar reminder to check the battery !!!!!!!

For what its worth 0.81, .68, .83, .75, .66, .62, .81, .85, .85, .87 So I'm guessing that a confirmed kill on this pack. You mention re-celling - is that something I'd do myself or send it off ?

Is that the connector with all the white wires ? Thankyou for everyone's help by the way - its appreciated.

A couple of the cells I can reach either end on read 0.6V

Yes, just checked with another meter - same. I've taken the case apart - is there anything else worth checking ?

Yes, same from the terminals - again with or without the switch on

Sorry took a while to find the multimeter and untangle the leads in the frame bag. 90mV - this is the same with or without the battery switch on ?

Hi All, I left the bike with about 50pc SoC, but coming back to the bike after a much longer than expected break I saw that I had left the charger lead in (I'd think I'd given it a just a little top up and must have just switched it off at the plug). I could easily be 6 months - I had a lot going on in my life at the time! Its a 36V 17Ah battery - I'm not sure if the link will work for others, but it still shows for me. https://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/product/B071GN86HS/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1 Maybe it would have died anyway over that amount of time, but I wonder if the charger has been slowly draining it? I say its not charging - the controller unit won't switch on, with or without the charger lead in, and the light on the charger stays green when I plug it in. I have a basic multimeter, and various security screwdriver bits, so would be happy to open it up if anyone knowledgable would have the patience to guide me.

Yes, one day I'd love to do it, but the cost of a 20+ Ah 48V battery will have to come down a bit - hopefully by the time this one is worn out there will be gigafactories all over the world churning these things out for pence

I copped out in the end, and took it to my hub to my LBS. £90 for supply of spokes and rim and build. No load speed on a stand went from 18mph on the Q100 to 22mph on the Q128. On the road with plenty of input from me I'm getting 19-20 fresh off the charger, and still 18mph 36 miles later with one bar left. Any, yes, my commute now takes just a fraction under an hour With rubbish weather and floods closing the roads I've already done over 900 miles of commuting. Given my drive would take a longer route I've already displaced a 1000 miles of car miles. I think I'm building up a vague target to offset 4k car miles in 2018:eek:

I'm planning to go for the Q128C - I'm not in a hurry, so I was thinking of ordering the bare motor and building myself to save postage costs - I'm fairly happy with the build process, but unsure how to buy the right 700c rim and correct length of spokes/nipples for it - does anyone have a the right spec ?

Finally had a chance to put it on the stand today and adjust properly rather than just stoping on the road, twiddling the barrel and setting off agin. I just will not shift down cleanly in the higher gears. Adjusting the derailleur in any more means it rattles on the cog. I can however push down two (its a piano shifter) which shifts only one, but rattles, then instantly click up which settles nicely into the desired gear. Shifting down from 4-3-2-1 is clean, and shifting up is clean all the way. At least this way around I have the option of pushing through two gear in one motion with the piano shifter - long push click is easier than click click push (have I lost you ?) I'm wondering if the MTB derailleur is just not suitable for such a different type of cassette ?

Yes, Chain is less than 50 miles old - I did my best with it today, and will see how I manage on my commute tomorrow morning. Funny, it will be dark and freezing, but I look forward to the journey to work now in a way I didn't last year when I was driving.

This is sort of ebike related as its on an ebike, but feel free to send me off to a general bike maintenance forum.... When I converted my Dawes Sonoran last year I changed the 11-34 8 speed cassette for a 11-30 figuring that I wouldn't need the lower gears. After a few hundred miles of riding I realise that I spend almost all my time in top few gears which are the same between the two, so have just upgraded yet again to a 12-23. I can't seem to get it indexed right - I thought all cassettes were basically interchangeable, but does anyone have any experience or tips? It is ok in the lower gears, but just where I expect to be in the smaller cogs it is unreliable shifting up or down! Would the chain make any difference ? I use cheapo Clarks 7-8 Speed Anti-Rust Chain - old (indexes perfectly) - Shimano Acera ECSHG418130 Speed Cassette - Silver, 11-30 Teeth new(trouble at 12-13-14-15 range) - Shimano Sora HG50 8 Speed Cassette - Silver, 12-23 Teeth

Hi all, I have a S06S/S-LCD6 controller/LCD. I've just invested in an ebay 12-85V led light after my battery light plunged me in to darkness on a steep downhill on a country lane on the way home from work.. It comes with a separate handlebar mounted switch, but the wiring is not long enough to reach to the frame bag where the controller and battery leads are available in the dry. When I turn on the LCD backlight it gives me the impression in the manual that it can switch on an external light as well, but I don't think there is a 'lights' wire on the controller. Has anyone come up with a cunning way to turn on the lights, or should I just get some long wire to extend the switch back to the controller bag ?

It had never occurred to me until I saw a comment on another thread that an ebike battery would not be waterproof. Not sure if the link/image below will come out, but its a downtube battery with a round connector on to the removable battery. I can supply actual photos if it would help. The wires into the bottom on the bracket have a braided sleeve, but the hole is probably 10mm and its facing any spray coming from the road/front wheel. Plenty of space for water to get in. Can it do any harm in there ? Should I fill it with silicon ? https://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/product/B071GN86HS/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1

There is a 328rpm option for the Q100C - would that be viable - happy to put more effort in up hills if it lets me have a significantly higher top speed on the flat. 700C wheels by the way.

So is the Q100C 201rpm really 201 whilst the Q128C 201rpm is 260 ? Wouldn't want to spend out on a new motor to end up with the same top speed ?