Gazzgo

Hi I don’t know what you mean by p5 & 3. Do you mean pins or some menu setting? Mine doesn’t have P menu settings . Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Ha ha no probs. Glad your sorted [emoji1] Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

My controller has a light switch but couldn’t find a wire. I added an eBay 12-85 led and used a separate handlebar mounted switch. Works great. I also have smaller leds that are just on when the power is on. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Excellent work! Should be fine now I’d say. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

I just used a little superglue as it was really tight on the pedal already and that’s what I had. Epoxy would be far better. Should be perfectly fine even after two years. So long as it hasn’t gone hard [emoji1] Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Torque arm fitted today. Made a small angled bracket so it fits to the caliper mounts Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

I know. I was trying to see if the battery level meter works. It doesn’t seem very good. Doesn’t move then suddenly drops 2 bars out of 5 which is actually almost flat it would seem. I’ll just use miles travelled and how I’ve used the motor to gauge the battery I think. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

So the lesson is to charge my battery before a ride

Sounds like a plan mate! http://www.szktdz.com/en/news_show.php?article_id=392 Shows you the different sensor which I think is the one they mean, looks neat

That’s the same as mine. I progressively cut those teeth/splines down until it fit. I also glued it once it was a tight fit onto the crank arm. Someone else may have another idea but that worked for me. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

My PAS ring would fit into that gap easily I’d have thought. The other option may be to fit it to the round part of the crank arm itself? Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Looks good Someone here may be able to offer ideas to get the PAS ring working, maybe on the chain ring side? I didn't even fit the thumb throttle to mine as the PAS is so handy.

The display showed 3 bars, the voltage measured at home was 36v but it did shut down under heavy load. Lights on, climbing a steep hill slowly as per my description. Controller has 30v low volt cut off according to specs.

As in the lipo packs used in rc aircraft etc? I used to have an electric helicopter. I did consider those but haven't researched it yet.

Ha Ha good idea.. if a little expensive

battery is 3 weeks old as is the kit. Everything went off and come back on with a reset. It would appear that the low voltage threshold had been reached due to the combination of factors discussed. I was considering upping the current to everything to increase assistance but maybe not now.

Thanks I was certainly pedalling hard but I now also remember I still had it on level 5. I normally drop it to level 1 or 2 if I'm going up a steep, slow hill so that the motor isn't trying to achieve max speed. Its around the speed that I'm going so that is just fills the gaps in my pedal strokes. 10a constant is a bit naff really. I would have expected better of this kit. You live and learn I guess. I'll make sure it's fully charged next time and always!

Thanks for the quick reply Dillinger say this; "Samsung 26F cell is a 2,600mAh Lithium ion cell manufacturer by Samsung SDI for various applications. The longevity and stability of this cell at low to medium discharge loads make it ideal for this conversion kit. The cells are protected by an advanced BMS that controls everything related to the discharging and recharging of these cells to ensure they last a very long time and maintain good performance over the lifetime." Hill was variable fairly short maybe 20-25 degree, sorry difficult to tell. But short and took a standing effort in low gear to crest it without assistance once the motor stopped!

Hi Still new here and learning! I have 250w Dillinger kit which is helping me greatly. However this evening I went out for a short (8 mile) ride at dusk. I hadn't charged the battery since I rode to work the previous day (20 miles on full assistance - level 5). After the commute to work the battery meter hadn't dropped a bar. Today in the cold it quickly dropped 2 bars but left 3. On climbing a really steep hill the whole unit cut off. I switched off and on again and shortly after it did the same. I also have my lights running from the same battery (led's). Once up the hill it performed without issue all the way home. My thoughts are the controller supplied with the kit has a 30v cut off and perhaps with all this load in the cold with a part used battery it had dropped under 30v? Once home I checked the battery voltage 36v no load before charging. I was considering adding solder to the shunt to increase the amps a little as the motor is rated at 350w and the controller is 7a nominal 15a max. Although I've never seen more than 450w in the display at max load climbing at slow speed. So should I upgrade this controller to a different one or just add a little solder to the shunt and be aware of part charged, cold weather performance? The battery is brand new Samsung cells 470 Wh (36v 13ah). If I change controller will I need a new led display? Any advice on a good quality sensibly priced compatible controller? Maybe with a slightly lower voltage cutoff I wouldn't want to run more than 500w into the motor. I think that would be more than enough... or am I wrong? Advice and thoughts greatly received. P.S. My future hopes are to make a 2 wheel drive ebike... with a motor in each wheel, but that's way off in the future! P.P.S. If you're someone reading this wondering if you should get an ebike... do it! They are brilliant! Even low power legal ones a great.

Jubilee Tower seems a long climb [emoji15] even with a little e power! [emoji1] Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Sounds good. Be interesting to see how your new forks effect riding. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Anti rotation tabbed washers. They do fit inside. I wouldn’t have fitted them otherwise having an awareness of basic engineering. All that force on a a narrow ring of cast alloy would be asking for trouble [emoji15]. Thanks for mentioning it though. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Nice bracket. May well have a go at something similar myself. Will see how the torque arm I’ve ordered fits. Glad I ordered one by the sounds of it. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Hi Supplied C washers which I’ve fitted. At such low power advice seems to be torque arm is not required. However I have ordered one anyway. Drop outs did require filing and yes the washers sit properly thanks. I’ve done about 60 Miles on hilly terrain and seems to work well other than the initial spoke issues. I’ve no doubt tweaks will be made in time though. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Here is my experience fitting and riding with a Dillinger Bike kit. It was bought to try to encourage me to use my bike for a 10 mile each way commute to work. The donor bike is Trex 6500 mountain bike, bought about 8 years ago and sat gathering dust and scratches in my shed. This is the kit i purchased. http://dillengerelectricbikes.co.uk/electric-bike-kits/best-sellers/street-legal-electric-bike-kit-samsung-power-13ah-by-dillenger.html Wanted road legal or at least not huge power! The idea was to increase my fitness not have an electric motorbike. I choose the above kit in front wheel mode with a frame battery. Should have picked a rack battery as it ended up being too large to fit in the frame. This was me not measuring properly. I just did a quick glance with a tape measure. The kit seems pretty good quality and fitted without too much trouble. Even as my first ever kit. I did open up the controller and add some extra wires as I planned on having lights running from the battery. The cadence sensor was a tight fit and I had to remove all the splines. I did not fit the throttle as I really want to pedal and also I don't think 250w it really enough to just use the throttle except on the flat. Here's some pics of the finished (for now) bike. The lights I added were purchased online. I have a front and rear led, the rear flashes red. These were £2.43 including postage! The main front light I have switched and this was about £20. All these lights are 12-85v so no transformers needed. They seem to work well and make no difference to range. On the subject of range the furthest I've been is about 18 miles in one trip. I still haven't seen the battery meter drop a bar yet. Maybe it doesn't work so well.... time will tell. The spokes in the front wheel were fairly loose on purchase, I tightened these up and after 20 miles they were all loose again! I've now tightened them a lot! I choose a front wheel to keep my 9 speed cassette. Overall I'm pleased with it so far. Takes the sting out of hills and long uphill sections. Does a max of 20mph which is plenty. I usually choose the assistance depending on the speed I want. Eg If I'm climbing up a hill at 10 mph I won't; choose level 5 as the bike will be trying to go 20 mph, I'd choose level 2 so it's trying to do 12 mph. I find this works for me and hopefully reduces stress on the motor. They like to keep spinning really and you can feel them bog down if you really slow on a hill.