BG bicycle

Got that one a while ago. Apparently it’s a SW800. As to whether it is actually a SW900? All the features are similar but different codes and key strokes. Thanks Vfr400. I’ve now sourced part of the data in German, at this moment in time.

Anyone with a specific manual this Fischer ebike display. As ever it’s full of China quirks and the manuals I have don’t reference its nuances.

Something overlooked is your BMS, ability to handle that higher charge current. Any out of balance cells will quickly become more of a problem. Highest cells will rise faster and with the BMS, inability to drain them down quick enough the cells may overcharge and then the overall voltage taken into account the BMS, then stop the charge. BMS, could also overheat. Some cells will read 4.25v possible higher and other cells could be far from 4.2v. Result is a far shorter ride. The problem becomes worse and worse, lowest cells become lower voltage and therefore less and less distance. Also, the higher charge current on a well balanced battery pack is only applicable to about 70-80% of the maximum battery capacity. That is to say that final 1-2 volts can take another 2 or more hours. Far longer if require the battery to balance. In short, should only utilise a high current charger if your balancing circuitry can handle the extra current. And idea should deploy voltage monitoring on all cells within a pack. And install a smart BMS, then custom the balancing voltage, view cell data, bluetooth, etc. And yes, lower currents, are better. I charge via 2 and 8.14amp charger 10s 13p. I’ve an external active balancer capable of 3+amps per cell. I find a 2amp charge far superior. However, some of my journeys are 100-200km with multiple charges and 8.14amp to maximum 4.05v per individual cell is essential. My goal is to build a 400 cell battery within a Vector Typhoon frame. Over 4kwh. Should negate those present cafe stops.

https://www.insatinternational.com/contact_us.php

Depends on your controller. Ebike alarms are available.

I believe one of these digital buck cc, cv, power regulators could bring a battery up to voltage. However, without specific monitoring of each parellel cell group not something I would try.

Buy a water repellent contact spray. I soak everything in the stuff. No idea what brand in the UK. Within BG. Tin on the right is insulation varnish, spray that on the motor windings.

These are Batteryblocs. Temporary pack, was to test some cells that were proven fakes. Long story that when the credit card company sorts out eventual divulge. Slam dunked Allybaba trade assurance with Samsung’s assistance and they still sided with the seller. Advantage of this system is no welding, nor solder. And your cells are easy to replace or sell when cycle life drops.

NB.these opinions aren’t based on longevity nor price. Battery selection is mostly at the top end of the market a flip of a coin. One factor is certain the bigger the Ah, the higher the voltage, the less demand for those higher amps per individual cell, the lower the voltage draw demanded the better for those cells longevity. Take note that LG MJ1 are specific about a rest period between discharge and charge. The higher Ah capacity for a 35E, can out perform long term the higher Ah capacity from a 30Q, dependence upon ampere draw when riding. GA, once beyond their service use (various ways to get there fast) are nortious heaters. But, again depends on the demands made while in service. Stipulate your demands, and search out cells within your designated parameters. I.E. If you don’t want to wait 15 minutes between discharge and charge then one particular brand of cell isn’t for you.

Great video Marras. Those forks appear very thin. Personally I could never ride with a front motor. On a very cold winter’s night, so cold the derailleur collected ice and prevented the chain from any movement. See here the crack on the seat stem.

Samsung 35E top amperes 8A continuous. I’ve recent bought a couple hundred 35Es, although yet to fully evaluate them. A good reliable source.

Generic Chinese motor sold as a 500w unit. Battery pack is 10s 13p. Different laws here in Bulgaria, the motor won’t engage until 3-4kmh, this keeps the traffic police at bay. Also limit the speed via the Sw900 Currently building a Vector Typoon. My goal a 4kw battery pack.

Very nice conversion. Torque arms are mandatory if are going to go any speed and those potholes. My 20” folder is currently off the road the seat stem collar split and I discovered the frame be magnesium alloy. 6000km+ since June 2018, a crack was expected although surprised happened around the seat stem.

To be fair to Insat, this company has allowed Andy Kirby (Youtube), visit and film Jimmy, making a battery or two. See most recent video. Just ordered 210 Samsung 35E, of will be fitted into batteryblocs, no solder, no welding, no hassle.

I had a similar issue a crank on my DD, started to creak. The original bicycle components was already ten plus years and in a few months covered more than 2500km. The final result was that the crank of was aluminium had wore, or stretched around the axle and the stress added by each turn to the point that it slipped constantly and I couldn’t pedal. Were a 100km+ away from home that day within a mountain range. Thankful total failure happened just after the 23km climb to a peak within Stara Planina.