Weldinpatt

I am making a 48V battery using 18650s or 21700s and am wondering how to work out the fuse specifications most suitable to my use. I would like to use PPTC fuses. Thanks folks.

I remember an issue with off centre pedals because the motor on the outside of the frame. It’s been out a while now and constitutes a flop.

It is a chain tensioner and needs fitting on vertical dropouts . Excellent low maintenance and a correct chain tension at all times. A drop of oil weekly if I remember . At 2000 miles it’s like new. My horizontal dropouts use spindle tugs , easy but another tedious task . However it’s easier to keep eye on chain wear because I tension it as it wears but the vertical tensions its self. I use a chain wear indicator tool. A shorter better chainline than derailleur gears are capable of , results in longer chain life and less sprocket wear . Sprockets are cheap when it’s replacement time. I use e bike grade chain, a left over from my motorcycling days of cheap chains and break downs .

Get the BBSHD instead of an S02 or S01. I hear the older design burns controllers.

Yes great stuff exactly what I was thinking . As long as it keeps nice and dry rely on previously learnt skills at least you know the result will be what you want. I Was wondering cover the assembled battery cover it in expanded foam file/ rasp to my shape seal it then encase in fiber glass resin like a kayak mild with wires coming out terminated in XT90 or 60 s.

I’m thinking of a 14 or 15 s system and using my normal 48V, (54.6V) charger 14s = 58.8V and 15s = 83V. The idea being to 80/90% charge up longer life. Preparing the cells for assembly is a drawn out affair. Testing all the cells first . Internal resistance, capacity and voltage to be within 1/10th volt to avoid electron flow and potential heat . The Opus BT-C3100 I recommend but with four slots and 3.5 day testing times a hundred batteries will take for ever. Would it be a good idea to utilise ( for instance) a 10s bms withe battery holders and discharge modules each , make a ten cell capacity and recharging unit. Internal resistance is a quick in out test but capacity check is slow. Maybe place a thermistor on each cell too so nothing hot or cold. Store for a month and check for lost volts. Bring the majority back to 4.1V and use. Save the rejects for flash lights. Is my plan a good one or not, where does it fall flat. The modules are reasonably priced from eBay . And fun to make too. Basically I want a large capacity Wh. I don’t want a hot rod but I don’t want lag either especially at lower voltages. It doesn’t take many 14’s to make 100

Yes I read the Tsdz2 36v is one of a kind the 48v is another kind. 36v type doesn’t like 48v because heat builds up. The 48v can take 50+ v and runs cooler , revs more , and increase power.

Hello,the issue of mids needing to be in correct gear . Well yes and no, no longer are zillions of gears required Motors make more power and torque than a human . X-rd3 - Truckrun M-05 500w (BBS02 type) 145Nm no hill too steep 30 kmph easily. I drop into first gear for the steepest hill. Click. Just changed gear, as fast as you can say click , oops just changed gear again. I say don’t put up with cassettes and derailleur systems . An IGH , has perfect chain alignment at all times . No longer do you eat up road on a gear change. My Tsdz2 , 250w is coupled to an X-rd5(w) again all hills , perfect chain line click , click too. A five speed Rohloff, would be the next best advance in e bike gearing solutions. Mind you there’s the Enviolo , Nuvinci Se380n which I really enjoy too. As with all IGH setups maintenance is easy . Vertical dropouts and a chain tensioner further reduces maintenance as do the drums on the SAS hubs fantastic items indeed.

My X-rd3 and X-rd5(w) both change gear on the steepest Snowdonia , has to offer . I change up hill I take weight off chain indeed the X-rd3 has a gear change sensor that stops the motor while the shift takes place. I change stationary and down hill too easy easy peasey what ever. If you find any other scenario there’s something wrong either with technique or mal-adjusted somethings . It couldn’t be more simple. Unlike derailleur systems where it takes meters and meters of road to complete a change. Especially when it comes to a monster hill climbing granny. It’s the opposite of what’s easy and requires forward thinking that in return requires experience.5

The p5 sram internals can be bought from Holland Cycles £135 complete new innards but I have read they are no longer made and arnt that strong in comparison with other products . Sturmey Archer C50 C30 are tough as is their 3 speed fat hub . Mine is a beefed up X-rd3. Old hack before electric, but just the job , the ideal , the only way to go, post electric. It’s the way to go

That’s my name @hotmail.co.uk I like my bikes and now my e bikes. But of electric I know little. A pedagog and a student. I like to listen, learn and relay. Tsdz2 , M01, M05, Truckrun and Bosch CX, an interest in programming and electronics is where its leading me and the gap in my knowledge is vast. Please help me and I’ll try to help you. An exchange of ideas in my grail.

Been looking at Speed Box3 B- Tuning for Bosch cx gen3 . Fancy the iphone app model. I notice theBosch cx gen3 S - pedelec at 350w is the same 250w motor , the only difference being the software. But another different aspect suggests the 350w S pedelec version though faster has a lesser hill climbing ability than it’s slower 250w brother. Is that true ? Is this an issue with respect to the ‘Speed Box 3 B-Tuning blue tooth iPhone app version ? If you have had other observations or noticed or thought anything else what are they ?

Hi I have 48v tzds2 for a year I like . The battery came with the kit and connects to the motor with two wires black to black, red to red. No probs great. Now I have 48v Truckrun M01. Purchased separately I was hoping to get another battery base, and use the same battery for both bikes. Problem . The cable between the motor and battery has a plug at the motor end and the other is bare. Two fatter wires are red and black and four thin wires are , blue, green, brown and orange. Uhm, I look more closely at the battery . Four terminals ,two +ve and two -ve connect with the base . Both +ve and -ve join , resulting in two wires leaving the base to the motor . One red, one black. The base of the battery base has a detachable ally bit , empty, it looks heat sink like and has nine tapped holes down one side. It’s a shallow container. The motor specifications called the lead between motor and battery , ‘battery and battery communication lead It mentions a HDQ battery management system , built in 12c/ 13c rs485 protocol and digital communication interface At the moment this is new stuff for me , the curve is steep but I can follow instructions and think. Is there a solid state board made for the job. Seems like the bms in the battery is for charging and there should be another concerned with discharging. I read that to just join red, black it will not work nor will the screen. Help me please. PWH

Open resources reprogramming firm ware developed for those who want to alter aspects of their systems deals with voltage changing. Never.done it myself but loads on google about it BAFANG colour screens can replace black and white and introduce more functions too.

Pashley Sovereign 5speed wide ratio sturmey archer rear hub 24t , front is std 42t thumb throttle option fitted works well with a little pedalling to assist up gradients . Works well if throttle ignored and on pedal assist alone . Brilliant hill climbing ability , easier and faster than my Bosch cx 250w. Both need the pedals to be rotated in order to work. I would say the Bosch is more refined but TsDz2 is more powerful. TsDz2 can be programmed with open resource firm and soft ware up dates available the Bosch can’t and is done only with permission from Bosch. Range is very personal and data from others may differ to your own as many variables come to play. Speed , mode , load, local terrain, battery size, your style etc. Gear changing of all gearbox types used on cycles IGH or derailleur requires fineness, back off on the pedals feel it be sensitive. Gear crunchers and blue cog strippers tend to be one and the same , clumsy tool breakers. Chain line is perfect and I think a single rear sprocket with internal gears is by far best choice because the chain line remains constant and in alignment. Gears 2,3,4 on my 5speed are the exact same ratios as gears 1,2,3 on the stronger 3speed hub. The torque band is well wide and though you might prefer derailleurs I say the ideal transmission for the TsDz2 is the 3speed Sturmey Archer hub gear system. I had a heart attack and with the motor turned off I am incapable of riding But in 2nd gear on turbo assist level I scale snowdonia. I am very pleased with the price as this package packs a real punch.

sounds like the best option is your LBS there is higher quality. most only fit it once, so get it right

on my Pashley Tongsheng 5speed X-RD5 (w) keep 42t chainring and reduce teeth number at the rear. Woosh void warranty if the end user fits a larger chainring than 42t there are loads of sprocket sizes 13t - 22/24t, that will make it harder to pedal and go faster too , i place hill climbing ability before top speed so run a 24/42 giving me a reckless 1.75;1 primary ratio, chainline is very good as is, though i am toying with reducing the chainring, gearing down even more. "not normal" i hear, well yes but i'm a real weed, disabled following an illness. you know when your going up hill (a cadence of between 45 and 50 rpm) yet so slowly you loose balance , that's the time to stop gearing down. be interesting to watch the effect all this gearing down will have on the hub.

hey i got an ebike not a tardis and am unlikely to ever have one . sorry but i googled ebike motor kits that's where my interests lie, but if you could zap into the future and bring us some batteries back please let me know

Details are what we need to obtain optimum performance.I was ill and now equate to an old engine with worn rings and a lower compression ratio no longer can i pull original factory gear ratios. Because my rings are obsolete and unavailable, the only option left is to lower the gearing (so i can get up and down hilly Snowdonia). I love my N380se but could do with moving its internal ratio to the Left a bit