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I did link it in the original post, but I tried to be all clever and hid it in the word ‘this’, so you may not have noticed it! (It’s here https://www.bike-discount.de/en/buy/cube-elly-cruise-easy-entry-frame-pistachio-n-blue-840128) I have a hailong case, so it’s sort of long and thin. So even if it is mounted ‘high’ on the downtube, a lot of the weight will be low down, and it will still be a lot lower than a rack mount battery I’m really not too bothered about kicking it, just about safety and whether the frame can take the weight. It’s basically the only option if I want a big bag on the rear rack anyway

I was using a step through because I wanted to have a rack with quote a tall bag on the bag, so I wouldn't be able to swing my leg over, or have anywhere else to put the battery. If the battery is mounted fairly high up it shouldn't be too much in the way (and I only have size 8's anyway!), but it will definitely be easier than leaning the bike over and trying to thread my foot over a top tube. I though the same thing, although even a fairly light battery is 3x the weight of a large water bottle.. The frame I linked has the bottle mounts quite high up anyway, so it should be fairly out of the way. I did have a look, but it would be too short for my battery.

Bought this frame to build a new bike, but now it's here I've started to worry about whether it's a good idea to mount the battery on the downtube? A step through frame is already less structurally sound than a diamond frame, and electric bikes with step through frames always seem to have the battery on a rack at the back. I guess this could be because it could get in the way when mounting the bike or something.. Has anyone done this and had it go ok? I found this thread, don't know whether he went through with it in the end

Oh yes, maybe that is a consideration I've overlooked. Although is that mainly a performance thing? This will only be powering a BBS01, so I'm more concerned about safety and longevity

Could anyone share their experience with Enerprof batteries (or even better, their ebay store)? Specifically the quality of the thing and how its held up over time? Or failing that, any recommendations for battery sellers on eBay? I need a new (48v) one, and there's 10% off on eBay until midnight!

Yeh convert probably wasn’t the best word I just meant I currently have a normal men’s frame with a BBS01b that I installed myself, and I’d like to swap the frame for a step through one but I don't know where to find one

I'd really like to convert my ebike to a step through frame, does anyone know where I could find one? I've been looking on ebay, but having trouble finding one with horizontal dropouts, disc brake mounts, and preferably a battery cage behind the seat tube. Bike stores seem to just have road and mountain bike frames. Does anyone know where shops that sell pre-built ebikes get their frames from?

Oh wow, that's a fantastic resource thank you! Don't know how I didn't find it before One more thing though, which I couldn't find in that faq (although I've only skimmed it atm) - how much resistance should there be when rotating the pedals with the motor off? I read that there is a clutch of some sort between the pedals and the motor, so I thought it should be fairly easy to turn. Maybe not like a proper bb, but similar. But mine is, not exactly stiff, but not loose either. For instance, if turned to horizontal (with no chain attached) gravity is not enough to turn it vertical. There is a fair bit less resistance when pedaling backward however, and gravity is enough to rotate it in this direction.

Ah yes! Checking the grounds is a great idea, thank you And thanks Nealh, I assumed those were the wire assignments, but it's good to have it confirmed. Assuming it works fine, is there any preventative maintenance I should perform before fitting it to the bike, such as greasing gears or waterproofing? I know the 'B' version was supposed to have improved waterproofing, and I will definitely be using this in some heavy rain.

Bought this BBS01 from eBay the other day because it was cheap. I want to test it just to make sure it's working, but I don't know what the polarity of the battery connector is (I presume that's the two pin one at the bottom in the photo..) Would anyone be able to help me figure it out? I could cut into the wiring, but a) even if the wires are red and black I couldn't be sure they didn't just mix up the colours, and b) it would make it more difficult to return if it didn't work I'm thinking I might have to disassemble the housing to follow the wires inside? But I'm worried that would involve disturbing some sealant or something

Oh yes, right you are - I'll ask Woosh whether a new controller could work with my hub motor, otherwise I'll have to swap the controller over to the new rack. So the battery will still come with rack and charger, but the rack will not include a controller

Recently bought an XF08c kit from Woosh bikes with a 13AH battery, but am starting to think I should have bought a larger capacity one. So I’m gauging interest in this before I commit to a new one. I’ve had it about a month, used it for 260 miles, and it has approximately 12 full charge cycles on it. It will come with the charger, rack, fittings and both keys. Price is £250, which is £70 off of the new price from Woosh, but I’m open to offers.

Thank you for this information, but can I ask why I haven't been given any of it before now, despite buying a kit? It's not in the manual on your website either.. Unless I'm missing something? I'm particularly worried about how you've said that #4 is very important, yet this is the first I've heard of it; is there anything else of similar importance that I should know? It wasn't so much that the rotor wasn't lining up with the caliper, more than it was fouling the carrier. One last thing - do I need to have the black plastic spacer between the rotor and the motor? If so I really don't think it's going to fit..

Yeh it's definitely an alignment issue, which I think is why I was confused about the caliper adaptor suggestions. I've tried it with a spacer and it works (stretching the frame slightly), but that was also with one of the cogs from the cassette removed. It's an aluminium frame (7005 alloy) rather than steel, and everything I've read suggests you really shouldn't stretch aluminium.. but we are only talking 1-2mm so I'm guessing it will be ok? So my plan is to find the thinnest washer that will stop the disc rubbing on the carrier, and also to file the dropout on the cassette side so that it will fit with all the cogs Thank you for all the replies, and if any of that sounds stupid/dangerous please let me know!

Was that in conjunction with mounting the carrier on the outside of the frame? Because otherwise I can’t quite imagine how that could solve the problem of the carrier not fitting between the disc and the frame...