LithiumFan

I really don't think the wires are faulty. I was very careful pulling it through the axle when replacing it. I've been out for a trial ride and it's behaving as my last post. So my last attempt will be a different sensor. If that fails the I'll have to use an external one and tap into a different 5v and ground supply in the controller. I'm thinking I could use the throttle wires and change the third wire for the white one in the motor 6 block connector.

I've looked again at my photo of the original wiring and seen that the white wire is well away from the speed sensor. After the rewiring it actually went under the speed sensor. I've moved it and will re-assemble and try again before buying another sensor with longer legs.

Thanks. I don't think there is any cable damage as all the connections were carefully covered in heat shrink . I don't have access to an oscilloscope. The original hall sensor didn't blow , it broke off when I bent it to access the phase wires and then didn't work on re-attaching it with shorter legs. I think I'll try one more time with a sensor with longer legs as the replacement still doesn't reach the centre of the magnet.

I've finally redone the wiring and put in a new SS41 bipolar hall sensor. Now I have a different problem. The speedo works perfectly when power is set to zero but as soon as I add motor power the speedo goes haywire and fluctuates wildly and the distance travelled is greatly over measured. The legs look a little short. Could this be a problem? Are the phase wire hall sensors causing interference with the speed hall sensor? Bonnie at Xiongda says the SS41F is what I need but I can't find any information about the difference between a SS41 and a SS41F. It's getting quite frustrating. I could just use the gps on my phone but I use this this on several different bikes and not at all if just using the bike for daily use. So it's difficult to keep track in terms of servicing intervals. I really don't want to have to install an external sensor.

P2 is set to 1. If the hall is working could there be problem with the magnet? I didn't see anything that looked like one. I think I'm going to have to open up the motor again and have a good look.

Now I'm not sure. Bonnie gave me instructions as how the check all the hall sensors using the diode setting on my multimeter. So with the battery connected but the display turned off I tested the following and got results: MM red probe into red 5v pin then green, blue, yellow and white (speed wire) in turn returns 1.55v each time. MM red probe into black gnd pin and green, blue, yellow and white in turn return 0.63v So this should indicate that it is working. The only other thing I can think is that I have 12 magnets on the PAS but with a 10 magnet sensor. Hence with C1 setting at 03. I have not connected the throttle and have P4=1 and C4=0. The speedometer on the display shows speed only up to 15.5mph (my set limit) when using assist then slowly reverts to 0 if I stop pedalling. I understood from other threads that this means the speed is only being registered via the other hall sensors in the motor.

After some intensive testing I think the internal speed hall sensor on the pcb in the motor has broken. It is soldered to Q4 on the pcb on attached photo. It is about 25mm long and has number 1924228 on it. I'm happy to replace it as I really don't want to attach an external speed sensor with even more wiring. It broke off when I replaced the motor cable and after re-soldering on the pcb it wasn't working. After looking at various threads I realise that speed only shows on the display with signals from the other thre hall sensors. Does anyone know where I could get a replacement as I have no idea what its specifications are. Thanks

I have this C15 parameter. It is walk assist and I have changed it to 4 successfully.

She has sold me a kit back in February but maybe it was because I had bought a motor back in 2019. I'm just an ordinary punter. You are correct in saying that this controller is special for the 2 speed motor. I wouldn't attempt to use this controller on a "normal" hub motor, only on a different Xiongda motor, as in this case the software is compatible with a change in settings.

Ive been in communication with Bonnie regarding my Xiongda 2 speed motor. She has told me that on my new KT 36svpr controller there is a new C15 parameter which allows you to choose the walk assist speed: C4 = 4 km/h C5 = 5 km/h C6 =6 km/h I had always struggled trying to keep up with my bike when pushing it up a steep hill, especially offroad, so I thought I'd pass on the information. It is the special controller for the 2 speed motor so I'm not sure if it applies to other, general sine wave controllers. Bliss comes in many different forms.

Sorry Matthew.

Mathewslack, I can assure you that my Bosch 36v batteries are fabulous. They are designed for strimmers, lawn mowers and hedge trimmers and have ample power. My motors are capable of drawing 450W for short periods. Saneagle, you got it right. I had made a new adapter for the Bosch battery and needed an XT60 to XT60 waterproof cable. This was the problem: A bad connection somewhere. When I used my original adapter with normal XT60 connectors everything worked fine again. Thank-you both for your assistance. I have ended up with the KT24/36SVPR-HRD01 controller which has C13 and C14 parameters although I've no idea what they are for. It's very quiet and back to normal. The other controller didn't have a wire for the internal speedometer as it's included in the hall sensor connector block.

Hi, The other day my bike with retrofitted front AKM hub kit decided to show an error message 03. I know that that's a hall sensor error except that from a previous thread I started, this motor doesn't have any. But the throttle still worked. After pulling the controller out of its bag to see if any connectors had come adrift (none were) and rebagging, the throttle still worked but as soon as I started peddling the display and motor turned itself off completely. I have to unplug the battery to get the display to turn back on again. The current controller is a KT24/36SVPR-HRD01 with jst type connectors. I use Bosch 36v lawn mower batteries. I have also tried with the KT square wave controller and the display and motor just cut out immediately I use the throttle or the pedals. Any ideas as I'm now stumped.

Which bafang rear hub motor has an rpm of 180rpm? I'm not too bothered about reaching even 15mph as I'm most concerned about being able to climb hills at even 5 or 6mph with maybe 100-150w of my own power.

I am thinking of getting a bike with a pinion gearbox but want to fit a rear hub motor so I need to fit a PAS. I have bad knees so really don't want a torque sensor. I have been very happy with Xiongda 2 speed motor which I have had on a total of three bikes, doing the conversions myself, and have done over 7,000 miles, a lot offroad as well as tarmac. I really want to use the same type of motor. With the pinion gearbox it doesn't look as though I can use a PAS sensor at the crank because the gearbox is flat. If anyone has succeeded in this please post with what they did. Looking at pictures of rear axles with a Gates belt sprocket it does look easier to fix a PAS there. It would just need a longer cable which I can sort out. Is this possible? I have seen a Geeko hub motor with a cassette based PAS sensor but I have feeling it would not work on a different motor... Also I love the 2 speed system on the Xionda as I can get up almost anything. Please, no comments about why I should use a mid drive. I have one but much prefer just having a fixed power level I can control with my thumb which I use actively to get a great range. Last Sunday I managed 36 miles on a 36v 6Ah battery on the Traws Eryri route from Betws-y-Coed to Conwy. I am not interested in speed. I often go up hills at just 5 or 6mph in low power in a low gear. Pushing or using the walk button where necessary. Cheers.