Spinnanz

Your new battery is the same voltage as the original, so your tip speed should be near original, even with increased wattage. What speed does it read with the wheel spinning in the air?

I honestly can't remember which of. My 3 wires is correct. All up there are only 6 combinations to try.

Id just try the pas wires in any combination then. One of mine when hooked up "correctly" by colour doesn't work. To work on mine 1 is correct by colour and the other 2 are opposite.

Is pas turned on?

E7 is hall failure in the hub. There is no failure code for the actual motor.

Is the motor a known good motor? Disconnect the 3 big wires from motor and while shorting 2 of them together, try spin the wheel backwards, is it very hard to turn?

This will run your motor at 13a. It can run 24-48v according to the specs however I think it actually goes up to 52v. It WILL need wiring in. 3 wires for throttle, 2 for power, 3 for PAS if you want that, 3 for motor and I think 5 for hall sensors. https://a.aliexpress.com/_mNadwnX

That unit looks to be epexy filled, makes it a pain to do a shunt mod. If it's 250w [mention=22943]36v[/mention], you should be able to get 336w out of it if run on a 48v battery, assuming it can run 48v. A far cheaper option would be an aftermarket controller. Running your current 36v battery at 13a would give you around 470w.

1st hurdle. The battery I got is from a Shimano Steps equipped bike. It turns out this batterys BMS communicates to the Shimano charger and the original bike in order to work. Without that communication the battery won't turn on. Looks like I'll be removing the Shimano BMS and fitting an aftermarket one.

Ya that's still in regular use. I think that's near 3000km on it now.

Yep the Yep the brakes will line (just) up with the new rims. A this stage I'd pref out of place looking rims to keeping the original rims, which are not straight, and mismatched anyway. Eventually I'd like a good set of original rims and lace the motor to one of them. Failing that, I may paint the alloys rims white.

I'm doing another vintage conversion. I scored another cheap Raleigh with pannier bag, and an electric conversion using a 700c wheel set. The only thing left to get is a controller. The battery is a 36v, which should be good for around 470w, with a cheap China controller. The only modifications required are a slight file of the dropouts. Build cost: Bike $75nz Motor/wheels/battery $300nz Controller $55nz Total: $430nz/$300us/£225uk

I've 2 of these controllers which are identical however they display differently. One will display wattage, but this is the one you DON'T want. The problem with it is that if it has a an error code displaying, ie e07, it will only display the current speed, and pas. You can't see trip, wattage, amps, odometer, or time riding. Basically it's stuck on the error code screen. This is a pain if you are using it on a motor workout hall sensors. With this one, if there is no fault codes, it won't have any error screen. The one that doesn't display wattage can still display all other screens if it has a fault code showing, when there are no fault codes, it will display e00 in one one of the screens when you cycle through all the displays. Also, there is no error if the main motor wires are disconnected, shorting or faulty. The e07 code (motor fault) is only related to the hall sensors.

Plug and play in that when it was wired in, it worked. Not plug and play in that the plugs were different so I had to wire it in.

I've got a an old eZee motor, and have used that motor on 2 different Brain Power speed controllers/lcds. Both were worked fine and gave it current control on pas and throttle. I was running it at 13amp, 36v so around 450w.

Thats odd. A cheap and cheerful $50 controller from China was all golden on mine.

I've done an electric conversion too, but to a Raleigh sport. If I was to do a Raleigh 20, here is what I'd do... To keep the 3 speed rear hub I'd go with a 250w front hub, however I'd get a hub thats made for a larger rim, like a 26", and have that laced to your smaller 20" rim. The size difference between these two wheels is 22%. This will have the effect of giving your more 22% more torque, although it will reduce your top speed by 22%. Top speed is normally 30-35kph on an average 250w hub, so the new top speed will be 23-27kph, perfectly speedy enough for a Raleigh 20! For the battery id find a 1970s saddle bag, or make a flat cell pack to go in the bottom of your wooden box. A small 10ah battery will EASILY get you to and from work. The longest ride I've done so far is 50km.

It's a 1973 Raleigh Sport, now running deep 700c alloy wheels + elec rear hub.

The current draw will drop when maintaining a lower speed due to wind resistance. The lower the speed, the less wind resistance, hence the lower currant draw. Wind resistance isn't liner, if you want to go say 20% faster, you will get MORE than a 20% increase in wind resistance, so the current required will also be more than 20% higher. This why if I want to increase my speed from 20kph to 30kph (33% faster) my current has to increase by 50%.

It seems that the steepness of Baldwin St in NZ and Harlech in Wales have been re-assessed and Baldwin had come out as the steepest after all. https://i.stuff.co.nz/travel/back-your-backyard/120918309/baldwin-st-wins-back-title-of-worlds-steepest-from-welsh-challenger

Mines rated at 36v 250w however a draw of 10a at 36v means in reality its around 360w.

Mine draws around 10a at 30kph. If I back my speed down to 20kph the current draw is near half, therfore doubling my range. That controller is supposed to current limit, however I've never been able to get it to work.

The green wires are only connected when setting the motor direction. In normal use, the green wires will be disconnected. Disconnect the green wires and set the controller to 3 and and reconnect the green wires. The motor will power up. If the motor turns the wrong way, disconnect the green wires until the motor stops and then reconnect the green wires. The motor should now turn the correct direction. Disconnect the green wire. Direction is now set. Now try your throttle.

I ended up with a 36v, 250w rear hub. This was commandeered from an EasyMotion commuter/city bike. Its quite small so doesn't really look electric, although the deep alloy wheels do give a bit away!

I have to say I get some weird looks each morning (530am) when I pass much newer bikes while my chain guard is clattering away! It's turned out to be a very practical, comfortable with a bit of speed in it and a bit more character than most other electrics.