mutmost

Thanks Spyder, i look forward to seeing it on your bike and how it performs. (neat looking build)

Spyder, if you don't mind me asking how much was your battery and are you getting a charger with it? thanks

no connection but this comes up as a trike conversion kit http://www.bikecare.co.uk/tribike.html

The ping is in a rack bag and is heavy. I am not interested in regen just a new battery of similar power. Thanks

Hi All, I think my 36V 20ah ping battery is starting to age and although I replaced a cell last year I think I need to look at alternatives, it has covered 14000 miles in six years so I'm not complaining. My bike is a 500w direct drive front wheel kit and according to a cycle analyst typically use 12.5ah -13.5ah on my 22 mile commute (round trip no charging at work) What do people recommend? I am not quite up to building my own pack (yet) and am interested in the battery sold by whoosh and eclipse but at 14.5ah is that too tight for my needs / in that as it ages I will run out of range fairly quickly or have things got better? I know it will be about 3kg lighter over today so that will help, or do I go for a new 13ah oxydrive kit and treat myself to a new conversion Any suggestions for battery stockists / recommendations welcomed. Thanks mutmost

I am interested in building up a new bike to replace my direct drive 500W 36V mainly due to age of the motor visible size and needing a new battery soon. On relatively flat terrain what is the stock performance at 36v?, I intend to pedal as I do today and typically trip along around 20mph (I have a resistor in the signal wire giving a no load speed of 24 mph against the WOT of 27mph). I am thinking of this kit with either a whoosh or eclipse battery. Thanks

new bearings fitted. I have now ridden it twice with the new bearings and it seems to be more or less back to normal. The old ones didn't seem to be rough or knackered when in your hand though. It does seem to not quite have the full power it use to have but that could be me. The battery has done 13,000 miles on 615 cycle charges so it could be getting a bit tired generally. thanks for your help / suggestions.

As an update I have checked the hall sensors with a volt meter and they are all working okay, I have checked the phase wires with an ebike tester (the little box with all the wires and lights on) and they seem okay. I have ordered some new bearings to fit so hope that works. i'll let you know.

It is a 36v 20ah ping battery which recently had some cells replaced (December 14). The Cycle Analyst is the SA one. When the battery was failing my 22 miles hit the LVC at 13AH consumed. To check I charged the battery and did a discharge test and got the same readings 13AH LVC hit . On repairing the battery my commute went down to 11AH and the discharge test went back to 16AH, so until this week all seemed normal until the ride which hit the LVC at 20 miles and 16AH, I can't honestly say i have ever paid much attention to the resting voltage once I have got home and put it back on the charger.

The consumption is via a cycle analyst which I have used for the whole life of this set up. The pack voltage seems to be behaving normally in terms of fully charged value and LVC. The LVC and total AH consumed ties up both on the bike and a drain test with 3 x 12V light bulbs, ie the LVC cuts out at the same AH consumed. i hope that answers your questions? Thanks for your help.

Morning All, my direct drive motor which has covered approx 12000 miles has recently started consuming alot more AH for my commute, it use to use about 11 AH for 22 miles but recently this has jumped to 17AH. It still seems to run okay although there does seem to be a lack of top end power but no juddering or noise that is different to normal. I changed over to a new bag at the weekend hoping that checking all the connections and soldering them all would fix the issue but it is still the same. Any suggestions of what to check first? Thanks Mutmost

some pictures as I am interested in connection suggestions as well

Hello All, I currently have a 500W DD electric bike (ebikekit.com) front wheel kit running from a ping 36V 20Ah battery. The kit has done 12500miles without too many issues (mainly broken wires) it is used for commuting on a round trip of 21 miles, there are lights runnig direct and via a step down convertor off the battery. The top speed has been reduced via a variable resistor in the throttle line this was done to avoid LVC as the battery has aged and is set at about 20mph which I find acceptable. It typically consumes 22wh/mile and gets near LVC at about 13.7Ah this is from a cycle analyst. I would like to keep the top speed around the 20mph mark the route is mostly flat with some hills but nothing long or major. I would prefer to go with a front wheel option as I currently wouldn't have one once I remove the current wheel, I am up for building a wheel. My main reason for doing this is to make the bike look more stealthy (remove the dinner plate from the front wheel) and reduce the power consumed but keep the top speed and distance, if I have understood correctly geared motors draw less power? which will help not reach the LVS before I make it home, particularly as we head into the winter with headwinds and cold batteries. Any suggestions? I keep looking at BMS battery and get confused!?, If i have to get a set of wheels as a rear motor is the better option then fine, although I may then look to the bbs01 350W crank drive. My previous bike was an old brushed powerbike so I am more use to hub motors. Thanks Mutmost.

Thanks all for the comments but it is the electronics on the current board are faulty (or set to turn off high after 20 mins) regardless of battery condition, so replacing seems to be the way forward, the question is which board, a current limiting or voltage limiting? Thanks

Mike, thanks for the suggestion but I am looking to get rid of the current electronics and go straight to the LEDs as just replacing the batteries with the DC-DC convertor does not get round the 20 min then off problem. Thanks

Hi All, I want to mod my phillips saferide bike light to run off a 12v supply I have at the handlebar from a DC-DC convertor from the bike battery. The light is great but the run time on high is now only 20mins which is too short for my commute. It use to be longer but seems to have dropped from when I came off in the ice. (The 20mins seems to be a common problem with them) I have measured the voltage across the LEDs and got 5.6V on low and 6.63V on high so with that i planned to get one of the convertors linked to in the other LED light thread and turn the voltage up to 6.63 and thought that would be it. I have since read that LEDs need a constant current so looked at constant current drivers on deal extreme but in my mind I can't work out if it is a constant current what voltage would be supplied or does it not matter. I then read about the bflex drivers from taskled which are probably overkill and all the modes confused me . So in short do I need one of these: LM2596HV DCDC Step Down Converter Adjustable + Heatsink | eBay one of these 3.6V~16V 925mA Constant Current LED Driver Board for Cree and SSC LEDs (4-pack) - Free Shipping - DealExtreme or something else. Thanks Mutmost

I have one of these switches and it is fitted fairly close to the brake lever , (where everything crosses over) for support. they are wrapped together with that plastic spiral wrap stuff. It works well but it was a bit of a pig to bleed as if it leaks it is hard to see the fluid on the black pipe (or it was for me). The other thing i have found is as you adjust for pad wear the lever can vibrate enough to push the fluid to activate the switch or from a standing start when you let go nothing happens as the switch is still "on". Now i am aware i just flick the lever out and all is well again. This was on an old rim which had a split in it so the pads were not as close to the rim as i would have liked as I could adjust out this fine buckle( which was a split in the rim making it wider over a 150 mm length). i have not worn these pads down with this new backwheel to see if i still have the issue with the pad wear. With hindsight I would have mounted it nearer the back and contoller to shorten the cable run as suggested. Hope that helps (it has been on the bike since about March last year without any issue)

Thanks for the suggestion, i did open it up but they were stuck fast and would have needed a fair bit of delicate operation to get them out, fortunately the one I ordered off ebay arrived this morning and that one works fine. so problem solved.

Hi All, my throttle broke yesterday and on trying a spare at home it works but you have to go to WOT for it to start and then by working back on the spring the speed slows until stop at what would normally be full speed?! Let go for off and it works back to WOT as it springs closed / open. So it appears to be operating backwards i think I have tried all the combinations of the three wires (hall throttle on a direct drive hub), and tried reversing the signal and gnd but that stoped it all together. Would this happen with incorrect wiring or is it something else? (New throttle ordered to test) Any thoughts? Background: I did try to by-pass the throttle using a magnet direct to the sensor in the broken throttle which latched the throttle on at a level but on removing the magnet it kept running until I held the brake which had to stop the wheel before the e-brake cut off worked or did i trip something (no fuse blew). The throttle was from a brushed motored bike but that shouldn't matter. Thanks Mutmost

Endless-sphere.com • View topic - How to Determine the Wiring for a Brushless Motor Graham, this link may help work out what goes where! Good luck

Neil, i use to have a powerbyke commuter which served me well. After some issues with SLA batteries I bought a 36v 20ah ping battery from PingBattery LiFePO4 Battery packs for Electric Bicycle e-Bike & Scooter, Lithium Iron Phosphate Battery to replace the SLA. I ran the battery in that bike for about 500 miles before I changed kits without any issue and it covered my 20 mile round trip commute comfortably. The battery has now covered 4200miles without issue. HTH P.S I didn't change controllers , i just wired the battery in , it also fitted (with some foam packing) in the original case.

Another option to the thudbuster is a suntour copy which seems to get good reviews for under £30. example here Controls about half way down the page

Hi, it is worth a read or possible a post on the magura forum as they have a lot of info and help, could be a sticking cylinder. MAGURA Community

Stevebills, I have a 36v 20ah ping powering an ebikekit 9c motor and it charges to 44.8v (was 45.3) and after a 22 mile round trip registers 34-35 volts having used 12-14ah. It has covered 3243 miles so far and the battery and charging has been faultless approx 145 charges (I have never run it to cut out and it does also power my lights). So far so good. (all data via cycle analyst device fitted at the same time)

Peasjam, I understand that the cutout switch can be replaced with a reed switch , but you have to look out for normally open or normally closed as if you get the wrong one it will only work with the brake on. I have hydraulic levers and run without the cut out but do have a switch i can grab if i have to which turns off the controller feed. For Torque arms I used 6mm mild steel plate 50mm sq and drilled / filed a hole in it for the axle and then used the rack / mudguard eyelet to bolt through. (With minimal shaping to get a good (flat)fit to the fork). Obviously depending on your kit you may need to remove a connector to do both sides (I did). i have covered 3200 miles like this on a 500w set up without issue (apart from punctures and the odd broken wire due to vibration /bad set up) enjoy your kit.