Speedee

And yes, 100% sure. I tried everything to get it working with the original pas. From repinning the connector to swapping magnets around and even removing magnets. The fiido pas is a dual hall sensor one which might work fine with a KT controller but it won't do anything with the brainpower controller.

Sorry, that's what I meant, 5 or 8. I used values between 7 and 9 to tweak the response of the controller, that's why I mixed them up with the real amount of magnets on a disc.

Tour connections and settings are not the problem. These controllers don't like the original Fiido PAS. Order a cheap 7 or 9 magnet on-line. You will have to find a way to mount the sensor to the frame (I glued them on) and you will have to pull the crank arm off to install the magnet disc (and remove the old pas).

Good to know, I will add it to the updated user manual.

The pin-out of the connector wires can be found in the updated LCD user manual for both connectors. You can download the user manual on page 10 of this thread. Of course be sure to double verify the pinout is correct.

Do you have a throttle connected? Or have you only tried using it with a PAS sensor? Is an error code visible on the display?

It doesn't work, unfortunately. The P-value is there but somehow the firmware does not respond to any setting.

The levels are in fact maximum speed settings. They divide the top speed up in 3 or 5 levels (for instance 20%-40%-60%-80%-100%) and can't be set individually. They can be influenced of course by changing the top speed setting or by simply using a higher voltage battery pack (in combo with the top speed setting). And yes, any bike can have 3 to 5 levels, it's up to you. Depending on the BMS of your battery pack the low voltage cut off setting could potentially (help) damage the battery pack if set too low. Provided you over discharge the pack. That's about all I can think of.

Hi Ray, I have also noticed this behavior on one of my installs but it somehow fixed itself. I would get an E10 code when measuring voltage on the Aux output, which also immediately cuts off the power to that connector but when connecting a step down converter everything was fine, no more E10.

Hi Wim, I just noticed your question now. E07 has occurred on all of my Brainpower installs so far (even when nothing is wrong) and can easily be cleared by connecting a throttle and spinning up the motor with it above 6 Km/h. After that E07 hasn't come back on my installs. It's almost like it's part of the initial setup process. I do disable throttle in the display setting afterwards and completely remove the throttle from the bicycle to comply with EU regulations. If you already have a throttle on your bicycle and you still get E07 then something is wrong; the controller seems to have sensed a problem with the hall sensors. This could be a bad/loose contact in the wiring (even a bad connector or wire that has come loose inside the motor etc) or a broken hall sensor.

Great bikes. What do you think of the noise/hum coming from the motor with the brainpower controller(or did you get a KT?)? I kind of like it, but to be fair it does show we're dealing with a cheap controller. I've swapped out three controllers for a brainpower so far and they all work without issues. Speaking of bang for your buck, huh?

What bike did you change the controller on, Wim? Fijne avond .

Yes, error codes clear when the problem has been fixed and you speed up the motor above 6 km/h. Check out page 10 of the S866 LCD and brainpower controller thread for a more comprehensive S866 user manual.

Yes, the output wire which is green in your case.

What do you get when the sensor is plugged in but not anywhere near the magnet disc? Also try measuring with the signal wire unplugged as suggested. If you still get a continuous output on the signal wire I wonder if the controller spikes on power up. That might fry the hall sensor.