BidelloZ

Does it look like this PCB on my controller? Mine was a not connected to the light output. In fact the yellow and orange wires that are referred to as “head light” on the wiring schemes are just connected straight to the battery terminal.

Thanks for the replies. Yes the light I have it’s 6-60V, works well. Understood, I’ll either add a switch, or keep it constantly on.

As far as I can tell, no. All the wires are in the pic posted above. Can’t use the blue wire for the cruise control I suppose? (Btw I removed the loop as I don’t need cruise mode). Yeah thought of a relay, but most automotive ones have a 12V coil - and high current contacts of course. A relay with 48V coils is a big heavy thing, can’t seem to find a small one. If you do know where I can find a small 48v relay could you please share? Thought about that, since the light is only 3W it can actually be good to have it on all the time and just control it with the switch on the battery. It’s also a good way to remember turning the battery off.

Hi all, Here to ask for your help once again. I’ve added a light to my bike, that is, one powered by the main battery (in addition to my trusty Moon Orion). I’d want this light to be controlled by the motor controller, but I’ve found the only 48v supply from my controller is permanent, i.e. not controlled by the switch (btw the display does light up if I keep the up button pressed). Pic of the controller wiring attached. Sure I can add a separate switch but it’d be nice to have the inbuilt display switch. I guess my controller can’t be controlled (excuse the pun) by the display switch? Cheers

Hi all, Been quite busy the last few weeks, but the bike had been finished for some time now and I have used it everyday with the kids up and down the hills. I am now in a position to draw some solid conclusions on the two motors I’ve tested on my cargo. Actually, I had originally bought the bike with a Luna BBSHD hacked with a 52v battery which on full throttle uphill was nearing 2000w, and whilst very solid it was totally inappropriate. So the TSDZ2 is a very nice solution for speed. By removing the 25kmh limit, it keeps assisting and I can nicely cycle around with two kids at good speeds. However uphill it will struggle. Conversely, the SWX02 is able to “almost” pull us uphill on the sole throttle. I say almost because although it is possible, the motor feels like it’s struggling and I think using it that way would result in quick wear/damage. When we’re on flat ground though, I can easily bypass the motor by pedalling faster than it’s max assitance. Past 18mph it won’t push anymore. But this is exactly what I wanted, raw low speed winching capability, not speed. Both motors on the bike would have been the perfect solution. But not interesting for me, much prefer the front hub and a clean drivetrain. I’d use a mid drive on my MTB, but on a commuting city bike I believe the front hub is much nicer and silent. Thanks all for the invaluable help. Some Pics of the finished product.

Yes that does work. But with the sensor flipped the hall coils are a bit too far from the magnet and to work well the sensor casing needs to rest against the magnet disc. Tried leaving a tiny gap and it works but the minimum movement will result in erratic behaviour. Guess it’s best to source the RH side sensor. Found one already. Left side sensor for sale if anyone is interested

That. Thanks for replying. In fact, sensor works perfectly. When pedalling backwards. And as I thought, and you confirmed, it’s the arrangement of two hall sensors and circuitry that makes the difference, not the magnets. And I’m sorry to disagree with you VFR400, but flipping each individual magnet is effectively like flipping the whole disc. Flipping half of the magnets would change the overall neat magnetic vector across the disc - but this is irrelevant to our quest.

Rethinking this, you suggest that the magnets are arranger in a staggered array on the disc? Meaning, they are alternating north and south poles? If so, only half of the magnets should be flipped, so to obtain an asymmetric array = all north or south poles on one side of the disc. Only if the disc is built with staggered poles of the magnets then by flipping half of the magnets we can achieve asymmetry and thus differentiate between the two faces of the disc. I’m not good with electronics but I wonder whether the two hall sensors one next to another in the little device above are built in a circuitry in such way to differentiate between two directions. It would be easy to do that, by having the circuit transmit a signal only when the two hall sensors detect movement in one direction. Besides, both north and south poles of a magnet do generate a voltage in a hall sensor, albeit different. Anyhow will experiment a bit, if anything for the sake of it;)

OK, I will try that but I’m not convinced, besides makes no sense when it comes to Faraday’s laws. Will report back and I actually hope I’m wrong :-)

Well flipping the whole disc would achieve the same, did that and makes no difference. The sensors are handed and don’t think there’s a way to change that, unless one knows how to tweak an electronic circuit that is

Oh so you’ve got the sensor for the right side? Can I use my magnetic disc or have to fit yours? Either way, can I have one?

Aye I should have tested it before installing it, however no way this sensor is going on the left crank. I’m all for a clean installation and even if I did manage to get it on the left crank it’d look s*#te:D It’s unfortunate I had no knowledge that these sensors are handed, and that the 5, 8 and 10 magnet ones are reversible. Sure I could have asked that too but at the time of selecting the right components I never thought about which side of the cranks the sensor would have to go. Well it is all part of the learning process right? Will check if the controller can be set to use this sensor properly, otherwise I’ll get the correct sensor ;-)

Nope turning the magnet over does not work, the sensor is clearly handed. Those two little black parallel components on the sensor only generate a signal if the magnet moves from one side to the other, not the opposite (is this an hall sensor?). I did try turning the sensor 180 degrees, it works but positioning is critical, needs to be almost against thr magnets for the field to reach the sensor on the other side, I can see the slight movement or alignment change would effectively inactivate it.

And one more post ;-P Guess nothing can be done with this sensor to reverse the signal?

OK this is my very sensor but made to work on the RH side: KT-D12r https://rover.ebay.com/rover/0/0/0?mpre=https%3A%2F%2Fwww.ebay.co.uk%2Fulk%2Fitm%2F272864678672 Bit steep at £19.95 though