BidelloZ

Does it look like this PCB on my controller? Mine was a not connected to the light output. In fact the yellow and orange wires that are referred to as “head light” on the wiring schemes are just connected straight to the battery terminal.

Thanks for the replies. Yes the light I have it’s 6-60V, works well. Understood, I’ll either add a switch, or keep it constantly on.

As far as I can tell, no. All the wires are in the pic posted above. Can’t use the blue wire for the cruise control I suppose? (Btw I removed the loop as I don’t need cruise mode). Yeah thought of a relay, but most automotive ones have a 12V coil - and high current contacts of course. A relay with 48V coils is a big heavy thing, can’t seem to find a small one. If you do know where I can find a small 48v relay could you please share? Thought about that, since the light is only 3W it can actually be good to have it on all the time and just control it with the switch on the battery. It’s also a good way to remember turning the battery off.

Hi all, Here to ask for your help once again. I’ve added a light to my bike, that is, one powered by the main battery (in addition to my trusty Moon Orion). I’d want this light to be controlled by the motor controller, but I’ve found the only 48v supply from my controller is permanent, i.e. not controlled by the switch (btw the display does light up if I keep the up button pressed). Pic of the controller wiring attached. Sure I can add a separate switch but it’d be nice to have the inbuilt display switch. I guess my controller can’t be controlled (excuse the pun) by the display switch? Cheers

Hi all, Been quite busy the last few weeks, but the bike had been finished for some time now and I have used it everyday with the kids up and down the hills. I am now in a position to draw some solid conclusions on the two motors I’ve tested on my cargo. Actually, I had originally bought the bike with a Luna BBSHD hacked with a 52v battery which on full throttle uphill was nearing 2000w, and whilst very solid it was totally inappropriate. So the TSDZ2 is a very nice solution for speed. By removing the 25kmh limit, it keeps assisting and I can nicely cycle around with two kids at good speeds. However uphill it will struggle. Conversely, the SWX02 is able to “almost” pull us uphill on the sole throttle. I say almost because although it is possible, the motor feels like it’s struggling and I think using it that way would result in quick wear/damage. When we’re on flat ground though, I can easily bypass the motor by pedalling faster than it’s max assitance. Past 18mph it won’t push anymore. But this is exactly what I wanted, raw low speed winching capability, not speed. Both motors on the bike would have been the perfect solution. But not interesting for me, much prefer the front hub and a clean drivetrain. I’d use a mid drive on my MTB, but on a commuting city bike I believe the front hub is much nicer and silent. Thanks all for the invaluable help. Some Pics of the finished product.

Yes that does work. But with the sensor flipped the hall coils are a bit too far from the magnet and to work well the sensor casing needs to rest against the magnet disc. Tried leaving a tiny gap and it works but the minimum movement will result in erratic behaviour. Guess it’s best to source the RH side sensor. Found one already. Left side sensor for sale if anyone is interested

That. Thanks for replying. In fact, sensor works perfectly. When pedalling backwards. And as I thought, and you confirmed, it’s the arrangement of two hall sensors and circuitry that makes the difference, not the magnets. And I’m sorry to disagree with you VFR400, but flipping each individual magnet is effectively like flipping the whole disc. Flipping half of the magnets would change the overall neat magnetic vector across the disc - but this is irrelevant to our quest.

Rethinking this, you suggest that the magnets are arranger in a staggered array on the disc? Meaning, they are alternating north and south poles? If so, only half of the magnets should be flipped, so to obtain an asymmetric array = all north or south poles on one side of the disc. Only if the disc is built with staggered poles of the magnets then by flipping half of the magnets we can achieve asymmetry and thus differentiate between the two faces of the disc. I’m not good with electronics but I wonder whether the two hall sensors one next to another in the little device above are built in a circuitry in such way to differentiate between two directions. It would be easy to do that, by having the circuit transmit a signal only when the two hall sensors detect movement in one direction. Besides, both north and south poles of a magnet do generate a voltage in a hall sensor, albeit different. Anyhow will experiment a bit, if anything for the sake of it;)

OK, I will try that but I’m not convinced, besides makes no sense when it comes to Faraday’s laws. Will report back and I actually hope I’m wrong :-)

Well flipping the whole disc would achieve the same, did that and makes no difference. The sensors are handed and don’t think there’s a way to change that, unless one knows how to tweak an electronic circuit that is

Oh so you’ve got the sensor for the right side? Can I use my magnetic disc or have to fit yours? Either way, can I have one?

Aye I should have tested it before installing it, however no way this sensor is going on the left crank. I’m all for a clean installation and even if I did manage to get it on the left crank it’d look s*#te:D It’s unfortunate I had no knowledge that these sensors are handed, and that the 5, 8 and 10 magnet ones are reversible. Sure I could have asked that too but at the time of selecting the right components I never thought about which side of the cranks the sensor would have to go. Well it is all part of the learning process right? Will check if the controller can be set to use this sensor properly, otherwise I’ll get the correct sensor ;-)

Nope turning the magnet over does not work, the sensor is clearly handed. Those two little black parallel components on the sensor only generate a signal if the magnet moves from one side to the other, not the opposite (is this an hall sensor?). I did try turning the sensor 180 degrees, it works but positioning is critical, needs to be almost against thr magnets for the field to reach the sensor on the other side, I can see the slight movement or alignment change would effectively inactivate it.

And one more post ;-P Guess nothing can be done with this sensor to reverse the signal?

OK this is my very sensor but made to work on the RH side: KT-D12r https://rover.ebay.com/rover/0/0/0?mpre=https%3A%2F%2Fwww.ebay.co.uk%2Fulk%2Fitm%2F272864678672 Bit steep at £19.95 though

Found this: http://dillengerelectricbikes.co.uk/enthusiasts/grin-technologies/peripherals/pas-12p-chr-by-grin.html Not sure it’d work with my controller, as it’s a quadrature sensor whereas mine obviously is a simple 3-wires sensor. Man these little hiccups drive me crazy

Front hub motor now tested properly - can only say I’m super happy with it! Slow on the flats, in fact I pedal faster than the motor pulls. But uphill it’s marvellous, just winches you up steady at 6-8 mph. Now, got an issue with the PAS sensor. Since there’s no space between the cranks and BB (it’s a GXP) I did a clean install on the chainring side. Only to realise the sensor is directional and only works if I pedal backwards. Doh! Is there any way to get this fixed by software? I guess not....

No, haven’t used the speed sensor of the TSDZ2. In fact to test both motors I used no cadence sensor on the SWX02. I thought the speed sensor is internal on the hub motor? Probably have to adjust parameters as suggested above. Will report when done so ;-)

Thanks, will do that tomorrow. In fact, how about all the other settings, especially the C settings? Is there a guide somewhere to understand the way they work? I’ll be looking up also the parameters of my motor for setting things properly. Cheers

Aye that’s my plan. Have a feeling don’t need the TSDZ2. It’s a nice motor though. Probably can resell it easily to somebody that got my same cargo bike. Oh, meant to ask: the LCD3 shows crazy speeds! As soon as the motor rotates, speed goes up to 65mph! When I said the motor did 18mph on the flat I was reading the TSDZ2 display. I did set the LCD up for a 20’’ wheel. Anything else I need to change?

Right, tested the bike with both motors and kids. What can I say. It’s awesome! The TSDZ2 is very nice. Feels totally natural, like the Bosch equipped Riese & Müller cargo bike I tried. It’s a bit noisy, there’s quite a whirl when pedalling, especially under load uphill. A bit annoying to be honest, especially compared to how silent the bike is otherwise. The SWX02 is much more silent, just a faint buzz. Couldn’t use the cadence sensor - it won’t fit the non-drive crank on the TSDZ2. So had to test it with the throttle only. I went a bit around town with the kids. Up the usual hills. I’d say the TSDZ2 is “almost” enough. I say almost because it’s fine on the flats of course and fairly good climbing up. But it’s still hard work, all considered. The 42T chainring (same as I had on before) on the bigger cog (36T) is good, wish I had a smaller ring though - though I have planned for a while to replace my 11-36 10spd cassette with a sunrace 11-42, or even 11-46 and keep the 42t chainring. But when I’m puffing to get past the crossroad at the top of the hill, with the kid laughing, the magic happens: at the press of the throttle, the bike becomes suddenly very light, and I pedal uphill without risking a heart attack (I should say I’m quite fit, I train every day, so believe me when I say it’s hard work). I modulated with the throttle and the combination of the two motors is obviously fantastic. The SWX02 is definitely better than the TSDZ2 in the uphill pull. It almost manages to pull us three with no pedalling. Definitely on flats and gentle inclines, on the stepper hills it does need a bit of pedalling, but does the job better than the mod drive motor. I am now in a weird position. Do I keep both - and sort out a cadence sensor that fits where the TSDZ2 is, or sell the TSDZ2? Don’t like to noise from the mid drive. Also I believe it’s illegal to have a 2WD bike right? But it’s nice to have both motors, would definitely help is some taught situations. Well need to ride a bit more and then decide what’s best. Some more pics - temporarily installation

No repair needed, I just cut off the whole support in order to fit the motor to by BB. Also have dremelled (is that a word?) out the whole support on the motor cover and fabricated a custom support. I know Tony you never recommend the TSDZ2 for my cargo bike, but given I’ve got this motor almost for free (yep that’s right) I thought it’d be fun to give it a go. EDIT: I'm very happy with the 48V SWX02, it's quiet and seems to which up the cargo bike no problem. This TSDZ2 thing happened basically overnight, an a combination of curiosity, spare time and mostly the fact I got the motor for the price of a dinner for two did the rest :-) Now I'm in the very unique position to test both motors and draw real impressions. Will test it this afternoon. Pics of the butchery

Yeah I'm not going to bother - the CA3 alone, either bought from Canada or various resellers (UK, Germany, etc) is around £140-170. Plus another £70 for a Sempu TS. I think at the moment I'll be OK with what I've got. On a second note. This is interesting. Speaking to a colleague at work yesterday, it has emerged his mate recently bought a mid drive motor from a shop here in the UK, but wanted to get rid of it. Just seen this guy and saw the motor. It's an 48v TSDZ2 from Woosh. He installed it on his (rather basic) commuting bike, as far as I understand with a set of LiPo packs he had lying around. Apparently managed to damage the motor during installation, stripped the M8 thread where the rear support bracket goes. He did manage to finish the installation anyway (don't ask...used some steel wire and a clamp...). Anyway he used the bike and said he really like the motor, so much he finally decided to splash out for a proper new ebike. To cut the story short, I'm taking this TSDZ2 home. For the little money I've managed to secure the kit, it was worth it. Thought I could always re-thread the hole and sell the motor. But today I'm off work, family away and have some time to play. More later

Yep, bought two just to be on the safe side. OK first run impressions: it does pull up nicely! Fairly quiet too. Nice, and slow. VFR400 was spot on: 18.4 mph top speed! I have to test it with a full load of kids, but seems promising nevertheless. I have to install the torque arms but they’ll need sole modding: one will share the IS fork caliper hole, the other one of the mudguard bolts. Next of course proper cable routing, waterproof controller box, etc. Still thinking about a torque sensing BB. Been in touch with Grin Tech, simpler solution would be a Sempu BB and a CA3 to read the toque sensor output and feed a voltage signal into controller via the throttle connector. Neat for sure, but am questioning myself as to whether makes sense at all to shell out some more £££ to only gain a better feel when pedalling. Might (and probably will) pass for the moment. More pics and impressions to follow

Update: Picked up the wheel, looks nice :-) Before dropping it at the workshop I couldn’t help myself and opened up the hub. Nice stuff, surprised about the lack of grease though. Added some just in case. Also, doesn’t that component look like a thermistor? Probably just got the look though... Will report back after the first test ride