PeterPi

I shall have to take a look. I did a repair on the controller last summer and I have seen replacements advertised. A circuit diagram would be great.

I have a TSDZ 2 and a VLCD5 display. I would like to add a throttle but I believe the VLCD5 I have has the wrong number of wires and is not compatible. Could anyone suggest a compatible display and/or a hack. A knee injury means I'm going to have to join the thousands of law breakers and stop peddling for a few months. :-( TIA Pete

Thanks for that. I knew what the 68 meant, but the rest must be to do with the crank spindle, I suppose.

I replaced it with a bronze gear wheel.

I've had the TSDZ2 fitted to my twenty year old bike for three years, and now I'm looking to move the kit to a new bike. Nothing fancy, but the problem is making sure I buy a bike with the correct size Bottom Bracket. I see things like this "Sealed, 68x122.5mm Square taper ". I get the 66mm bit but what does the rest mean. TIA Peter

I never thought about the waveform of the three phase supply, but I assume it's modified sine wave, which as you say is more likely to be noticable. Thanks again.

Thanks for the info. One thing I have notices is there is a bit more of a whine from the motor, which I assume is now due metal gears that are meshing. I'll put some more grease in there just to be on the safe side.

I was a bit hasty with my assumed fix. Although everything needed tightening up I was unable to a prolonged test of the system until last week. The noise returned when I selected higher gears and I was pedaling quite hard. I changed the blue gear and decided to replace it with a metal one instead. As a result there is no more noise in any gear or on any gradient. I didn't have any lithium grease, so as it's now a metal to metal contact, I used normal automotive lubricating grease. Should I still use white lithium grease anyhow? I've got quite adept at stripping the motor down and reassembling it so it's no hardship to changing the grease. TIA Peter

Should I use one of these ports and a throttle with this sort of connector? TIA Pete

It just goes into the back of the display. I shall have to check the other cable that comes out of the display and repost. EDIT: the one that goes to the motor has six pins. Thanks.

I have done a bit of trawling of various forums and drawn a blank. I want to fit one to the VLCD5 display which is shown below (apologies for the out of focus plug). I just need to know what I need to get and what's involved with firmware/software ETC. TIA Pete

I eventually got around to sorting this out, and there was nothing wrong with the clutch. It was as you, and others have said, a problem with the install. I think there were bolts which had slackened off as upon reassembly all is good. Thanks for all the input.

OK, thanks for the heads up. I'm persuaded that I have been looking in the wrong place. At least I've had a look at the insides of the motor, all the better when I really need to strip it down. Thanks again. Pete

I've done an inspection and partial disassembly but all seems good. Could it be the clutch in the blue nylon gear? Do they fail? TIA Pete

This is what it sounds like, but only when I press the left pedal. Not so much a screech as the sound of someone squeaking one out. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=qIQDOMi1ja4

Thanks for the swift reply. I'll try to record the sound before I do the dissembly. It might help if/when I post the strip down video.

I built the bike in 2020 but it's been laid up for almost a year. I rode it for about a mile today and whilst cycling up a slight slope the motor started to make a screeching noise like the gears were not meshing maybe. I freewheeled it down the slope back to home, and as soon as I attempted to pedal** the screeching noise returned. Does anyone have a clue what is going on? Sounds like it's going to have to be stripped down whatever is amiss. ** an edit: as originally I attempted to "peddle" it, but no one wanted to buy the sound. TIA Peter

Thanks for the suggestion. I've just repositioned the magnet and it seems to be back to normal. I did also check that the XT60 connection was solid, and it did seem to be a little loose. That was something I never try to do, by making two adjustments to anything at the same time, as you can never be sure what was causing the problem.

I removed the magnet and all is good. I've not had the time or the inclination, given the weather, to do some trouble shooting, but that will be next.

Thanks for the suggestion. I've not moved it but it may have had a knock sometime. I'll check to connections tomorrow and apply some WD40. I'll also try it with the magnet on the wheel removed. See what happens.

The unit has been quite problem free but I took it for a run this week, after being laid up for a couple of months and found that by bionic legs had stopped working. Took it out again today and had the same problem, but this time I noticed my speed was 62.4 MPH. If I push the bike it reads the speed correctly but when I peddle it shoots up to 62.4 every time. Any Ideas? Pete

It should just fool the motor into thinking you're going at half speed in a lower gear. I.E. pedals and motor going twice as fast, just like they would be when climbing a hill.

If you want to trick the speed sensor use an 74H73 IC to build a divide by 2 or 4 circuit for less than £2. Only a couple of jumpers needed and it runs off a 5v supply. You'd need to check the output waveform voltage from the hall device to make sure its within the operating range (about 0 to 3.5v for 5v supply). Plenty of circuits on the WWW, but divide by 2 is, +5v to pin 4, 0v pin 11. I/P pin 1, O/P pin 12, Jumper pin 3 to 12 & pin 13 to 14. If my memory serves me right. I'll knock one up later to check.

Love Louis and especially his e Bike rides around NYC. Have you seen the one shot on a Saturday night when all of Manhattan was on lockdown? Compulsive viewing.

On second thought, is it worth the trouble? I think not. https://tinyurl.com/yx7vk93n