rogermunns

You're being far too modest! And I should hang my head for being so unobservant.

vfr400 - bravo! You were perfectly correct in your diagnosis, pretty good seeing as I am the best part of 800 miles from you. Being a bit more mechanical than electrical, I instead adjusted the brakes at the levers, so as to ensure the 'no brake' position meant that the microswitches were definitely pressed. It was a bit of a fiddle, but it did the job! Thanks so much. That'll teach me not to fiddle, because when I got the bikes and before I replaced the batteries I spent some time stripping down and rebuilding the calipers / levers. Maybe I should have left well alone. I did the same to both bikes, so I guess the same 'cure' will apply to the other bike.

Thanks again, kind of you to take an interest. As a 75yo Physicist I should have picked up how these bikes work much easier than I have. But ...... Anyway, I'll have a look at the rats' nest that is the tangle of wires and connectors.

Thank you vfr400. I am a newcomer to elec. bike technology and am struggling to understand some aspects. What are brake switches? I am guessing that are to do with some braking mechanism of the motor? Maybe the intention is to make sure the motor cuts when you put the brakes on, so it is not fighting against the brakes? Anyway, I guess I can work out which wires they are and check connections. But I have to say I'm not too hopeful since I have 2 bikes, both using exactly the same components (except for the frames and the wheel sizes because they are ladies' and gents versions). Both bikes have same history, both having new Li-ion battery packs and both bikes showing just the same problem. Can you tell me how the throttle twist works? Is it a potentiometer? Do they fail? With both bikes there is no assistance by merely pedalling - you have to also twist the throttle grip. And how far you twist makes no difference - as soon as you twist there is assistance. That is, until the motor decides to cut. Or not, if you are lucky.

The lights do nothing when the power is requested - they stay on. After 20km or so the top green light will have faded to nothing, then the second green light will be full, fading to nothing in another 20km or so. I just went out this evening - only 7km, but power was assisting fine for a lot of the time, uphill or flat. On two of the up inclines the motor cut in/out/in/out every few seconds, then might be ok for 30 sec up rest of the hill. Recall that I have 2 of these bikes (one M, one F) identical situations, both do the same.

No.

Thanks. I usually go out for 8 - 10km rides. What I have seen with the display is that the top green light gradually fades and then goes out after 2 journies. Third journey maybe 4th the second one will go out. Have not ridden any significant distance after I have just red. I have noticed a diminution of the top green light when using the motor. But not the other two lights. I haven't noticed what happens when I am in the 2nd green status, but suspect that will also fade when the motor is on. I think I see what you're getting at ---- the battery might not be man enough ?? Is it safe to connect both Li-ion units I have, do you think?

Thanks for reply. Yes, the old batteries have been ditched. New ones are 36V, 8.8Ah and 36V, 7.0Ah respectively (gents', ladies'). Both show same symptoms, at any speed. Uphill the motors sometimes groan, and cut out much more. First pic - gents' handlebars, 2nd = ladies'. I weigh 72kg.

I just had an idea. Could I use both Li-ion packs (in parallel) so see if it is indeed the problem that the new battery packs can't give enough umph? Is there any danger in doing this? I would use wire of suitable current-handling ability.

Here are some pics. Maybe someone could identify the various items' suitability. As I said, Li-ion battery packs, correct voltage, will not drive the motors properly (intermittent power). Whether they are too powerful or not powerful enough seems the question, but importantly what can I do? Both Gent's and Ladies' bikes have identical controllers, motors and have the same problem. Also on both bikes the throttle controls do no controlling, they are either off (no twist) or they ask for power (twist to max. makes no difference).

What I really want to know, is what would you do if you were in my position? The new Li-ion batteries are same voltage. The pics here show the cells I got out of the metal can (I had to slit it open, the batteries / electronics / insulating sheets were tight jammed inside). There were 10 cans, I'm not sure what I did with one of them. There is a clue to the age because in pic 2 I can see 06.12.11 but of course that could be 2011 or 2006. I think 2011 is more likely. When you ask about controller, where is that? Is it not the electronics pictured here? (And there is something in the new Li-ion can?).

The mystery for me is that the 'old' lead-acid pack (I stripped it apart) comprised 12 metal-sealed cans plus a load of electronics. If I use 3 12V SLAs, what about electronics? Will I just then have throttle-control? Will the motor be ok with such an arrangement?

Several months ago I was given 2 old electric bikes from a recently-divorced friend who no longer wanted them. They are Zoom Swift140 model, gents' + ladies'. Can find absolutely no info online. Friend thinks they are 10 years old. Both hadn't been used for years and both had totally duff batteries. I reasoned that new batteries and I should be up-and-running. Well, yes and no. Each battery pod looked similar to many I had seen advertised, so I bought two new packs, one 7Ah and one 9Ah. My wife and I are both well-retired and just want to poodle around for maybe 10 or 15km, couple of times a week. Both bikes are certainly pedal-assist and both also have twist throttles. Both bikes are in excellent condition. It turns out that the original batteries are lead-acid and of course the new ones are Li-ion. What is happening is that the drive is erratic - on both bikes it's the same - you get assistance with cuts for a couple of seconds - riding on flat is better - and throttle position makes no difference. Any twist activates power (mostly) but altering the twist makes no difference. I am now pretty sure the motors aren't happy with the Li-ion power delivery. Question is, of course, what can I do? The bikes are too good to throw, but I now have 2 new batteries of the wrong type. I have searched high and llow for a solution, but found none.

Thanks for all your help. I'm now waiting for a new 36V Samsung cells pack. But, because the sender (in Poland) uses GLS Delivery, I might be lucky and get it before Christmas!.

Thank you. I suppose the Philyons are beyond recall? Maybe 6 years since they were last used. Out of the single one is coming 0.3volts.

It might be thought 'of course, they are Li-Ion 'because the charger' says so. But the widow of the guy who had the bike told me she wasn't at all sure that the charger belonged to THAT bike, because he had others and it might have been for one of them . The bike I have was in a garage even more messy than mine, with many electronic bits all over the place.

Hello again all. Mystery solved with the pic by flecc a couple of posts ago. I have only just seen this, pardon me. Last night I slit the aluminium (english spelling) with a dremel. It had been totally impossible to push out the contents (after unscrewing the ends). As I slit along the 39cm length of ali sleeve I found out why the internals were fixed so tight. Because as I cut, the ali split along, such was the force being exerted by the metal insides. Now for the pics. Sorry they are big, I couldn't find how to reduce their size. First; the split-apart case plus the internals (one cell had been snipped off for separate photo) Second; one of the 10 cells with a DVD to show scale Three, four, six; the bike SWIFT Zoom 4 Five; the charger. Again, sorry for delay, us 74y.o.s are very busy!

vfr400 - what sort of details?

I have acquired a second-hand bike with a dead battery. Apparently 7 - 8 years old. I have bought a new Li Ion battery which is very similar in appearance to the old one. The question is because the new one weighs 2.7kg while the old one weighs 4.9kg. This seems a very big difference ..... any thoughts?

An old guy wanting to get some outside exercise, but not too much. So an electric bike seemed a good idea. Especially since a friend wanted to sell an old (about 7 years old) one. I look forward to getting it back on the road, but before that I do have a couple of questions - I've put them in another section of this forum.