Mickyroo

delete please

I have a decathlon rear hub and it has a metallic looking grease in it, would this be graphite grease? Any suggestions as to what grease is the best to go for when servicing a geared hub motor ? cheers.

I couldn’t agree more lol I just want to test the parts prior to selling them as they go for good money at the minute specially when halfords ain’t got any in stock lol

I have been messing about with carrera ebikes for a while now and all the previous controllers had data lines but would work fine without them attached to the battery. I have come across a vengeance 2.0 setup and I don’t have the correct battery or harness and all I get is error thirty three. which is down to data lines to the battery. I do have carrera batterys with data pins and a older loom but the data lines are on a different plug and defo different colours. Do any of you chaps know what wires are the right ones to join to each colour. ? There’s a pic of the only two spare plugs im assuming the two wire one is the unused lighting option that’s on all their bikes and a pic of the loom off it’s predecessor. The torque sensors are different plugs too but identical. So these probs will work with the right colours joined lol

The freehub just pulls off once you remove the nut holding it on the spindle. The later model suntour motors you have to remove the side plate off the motor aswell.

Quick update on the e42 Vulcan I changed the entire motor cable from the controller to the pcb in the Motor and it has never had any errors since.

Hi thanks for ur reply the battery wasn’t full the thing has water Ingress thru the button cover that breaks on all these batteries. The bms was a acting up keep going off etc too so the plan is to replace the bms with one off eBay will any 10s 30a 36v bms work and then just use a different charger not the 5 pin suntour one.... also do the bms off eBay have built in cut off if there’s a issue with the bike? Thanks for ur time

Hi Iv got a phylion battery that when plugged in the 5 pin charger goes red for a few seconds then back to green any ideas

I just hope it works longer this time lol

I ended up putting a bafang plug on won’t no if it’s successful for over 50 mile I took some pics of my spare motor for you

That’s true. I will chop it off and solder and heatshrink it then. The bikes sold once im happy it’s fixed anyhow lol

I was thinking the motor side of the plug and wire is the only thing I have not changed cos I didn’t have another one and they did all have continuity when I tested. That’s a good help with that then knowing it can’t be the halls. I mite pull it apart when I get the time and put a bafang plug on it I got one of them spare.

Hi I will take some more pictures when I take it apart again or of the parts motor I have. It is a intermittent problem got me sick of it lol. I done 17 mile no error yesterday and i went over some nasty bumps then today done about a mile stopped waited 30 sec for my missus to catch up and bang e42. It’s a nitemare are them halls a direct replacement I mite just change all three of them I just ain’t sure it’s not some off the rest of the surface mount things on there that’s causing it.

Here’s the picture I shudda attached the first time lol I have a spare motor but iv swapped that and it’s the same. Is there a way to test the three halls I must have 3 good chips on two motors to sort one out with.

Hi i will test them like u say later on when I get back. I just thaught they should all be the same as the good bike there all the same cheers for you’re help

Hi I have a Vulcan. And the thing e42 errors when it feels like it and works fine for 10/20 mile then away again. Iv made a lead to allow me to test cable on the bike and tested the voltages on the hall sensors and on a good motor I get around 2.5volts with walk button held in on all three colours and on the one that errors I get: Yellow 1.96/7v Blue 2.61/2v Green 1.25/6v. Iv attached a pic of the Hall circuit there’s Three of them any advice on what to change to fix this would be great.

Hi I have a Vulcan. And the thing e42 errors when it feels like it and works fine for 10/20 mile then away again. Iv made a lead to allow me to test cable on the bike and tested the voltages on the hall sensors and on a good motor I get around 2.5volts with walk button held in on all three colours and on the one that errors I get: Yellow 1.96/7v Blue 2.61/2v Green 1.25/6v. Iv attached a pic of the Hall circuit there’s Three of them any advice on what to change to fix this would be great.

Iv had a mess on with this vulcan I have wire tests fine with multimeter also changed the entire coil board in the motor out still done it. It’s the crappy suntour plugs when people pull them apart by the wire the wires inside can break free from the pin and when u ride connection gets inerupted and e42. Gonna swap the controller cable and motor cable to a Juliet type plug and be done with the error 42 for good