MikeFB

I was deleting it to protect the seller, as it was a genuine mistake on their part that they amended. However if you want to re add the link as you have done then what can I do about it.

FYI. I actually edited the post before I saw the reply. VFR400 was probably replying at the time, as he does spend most of his time on here and was quick off the mark. I also did thank him for his reply none the less. Second. The post was about a business that I have now contacted and the issues described in the post was a genuine error on their part and they have amended their description and information. Therefore in the interest of fairness I cannot and will not allow what I published in the post to be shown. I believe I have the right to remove anything that I have typed in haste/error. Hope you all understand.

Thanks vfr400, but seller has sorted the info now. Motors are stamped 350w. They were apparently misinformed. I'll leave it at that.

Admin please delete or ignore this post.

I currently have Woosh's fat bike kit on one of my bikes with the same battery, so once I find a suitable bike for her, I'll have a play about with placement. Cheers.

Thanks for that, this was what I originally had in mind, but I couldn't visualize it as google image search didn't seem to show anything appropriate. While it would be nice to have it lower for a lower centre of gravity, I guess it isn't really any higher than having it on a rear rack.

vfr400 is dead right, this type can and has damaged frames, if you do a search there's a few posts about it, sadly including mine. Dave. yeah it wasn't expensive, but mine doesn't have a lot of weight on it. Just carrying some bike tools, tube, repair kit, sun glasses, that sort of thing. Will probably replace it with a proper rear rack soon.

Good point. Guess I'm going to have to think about this a bit more and see exactly what she wants to get a better picture of best how to proceed. Maybe see if she can cope with a slightly higher top tube that is still low like my fat bike or accept a full rear rack that I can modify to accept the downtube battery? Cheers vfr400

mmmm? I wonder? I have a rear rack that has a 10kg max load and attaches to the seat post (it's on my fat bike). The rack is screwed to a long post, so the rack part can be removed leaving the horizontal post only. I could possibly mount the downtube battery to that with numerous rivnuts, although security may be an issue, as the post could be removed? Going to have to see what she wants I guess. I suppose she could do some leg stretches and ride a bike with a larger triangle frame?

Problem is she wants to tackle a steep hill to her house after shopping and wants a trailer as well, oh and basket!. It also has to be 250w legal, she's an ex cop...... So I'm looking at one of the 48v Woosh kits with downtube battery. Pretty limited given the requirements.

A female friend has asked me to build her an ebike. Problem is she wants a ladies bike with the deep step through. I don't want to mount the battery to a rear rack, as the kit I'm looking at comes with a tube mounted battery. Would putting it on the top tube be OK? I realise that that would take up step through space, but having looked at some ladies bikes would still give a reasonable amount of room if I mount it higher up on the frame (I think?). It may also make it easier for her to remove possibly? PS: battery has to be locked in and secure as she will be using it for going into town. Any suggestions or alternatives?

Hi, yeah I have those in my spares box, but as you say they don't work with Hydraulic brakes as they can not fit next to them due to the reservoir. I'm 95% sure that the ones I noted will work, just wanted conformation before I bought the shifter and cassette. Think I'll just do it anyway, as they're not expensive items.

So, got my fat ebike up and running great. However the previous owner fitted a 7 speed SRAM MRX Comp twist shifter. On the trails I'm riding I accidently change gear occasionally when riding over bumpy surfaces, so they have to go. The bike is fitted with hydraulic brakes, so will need something like the Shimano SL-M310 that fits underneath the brake lever. I believe this only comes as an 8 speed shifter though?. However I can replace the 7 speed cassette I have with an 8 speed cassette if needed. My question is will the SL-M310 be compatible with the Shimano Tourney derailleur I have. I believe the SRAM shifter has a 2:1 actuation, but I'm confused about what actuation the SL-M310 is as I'm finding conflicting compatibility information on the internet. Any other suggestions/advice for replacing the twist shifter also welcome.

Hi Tony, just one question. My 26" fat bike wheel/tyre measures just a bit over 28" high, should I set the wheel size to something like 700c or keep it at 26". Will I have a more accurate speed reading either way?

UPDATE: finally got the cassette yesterday and the bike is now complete and I have to say I'm very happy so far and I couldn't be happier with the outcome. The 48v G06 motor is excellent and the bike pulls very hard and there's plenty of torque for even the steepest hill. Just a few notes for those with a fat bike and looking for a kit or looking for a fat bike to convert. Things I noticed when doing research on fat bikes is that they seem to have different width rear dropouts. Usually 170-180mm but can be as little as 150mm and as large as 190mm. What this means is that you will have make sure the kit is suitable for the bike you have. Mine wasn't too far out, but I did need to use a few spacers here and there to align the wheel properly and add 5mm shims to my brake disc caliper. A lot of fat bikes, and mountain bikes for that matter seem to have a steep top tube making fitting a tube battery difficult. Mine is just about OK, but drilling the holes for the extra rivnuts was tight. Finally, you may have to use a left pedal assist sensor if you don't have room for one on the chain side like I had to. Apart from that the rest of the fitting was straight forward. Can't wait to take it out on the trails (probably this Sunday). Highly recommend this kit. Here is an image of a cheap ebay controller box I used for hiding most of the excess cables:

Well, ordered a cassette and spacers, but had a bit of time on my hands this morning, so through the bike together for a test ride around the car park on motor alone. Wow, I only ran up and down a few times along a 50 metre run, but got to say that off the thumb throttle only I was well impressed with the torque and acceleration. With that here are a few pics of the bike, plus a few extras to spruce it up and make it ready for the hills and trails around here. BTW new tyres appear to be only 3.7" wide compared to the old tyres that were suppose to be 4" wide, but were 4.5 inches wide, so a big difference, but quite like the look of the width of these tyres better to be honest.

Thanks guys for the replies and info. Looking at my options, I think I'll go for a 11-28 7 speed and get some spacers for the moment and keep everything else as it is and see how that goes. They're not expensive, so if that doesn't work out I may go the 8/9 speed route and change everything while going for better derailleurs and shifters etc at the same time.

Hi all, Just bought a Woosh Bafang G06 fat kit for my fat bike with 26" wheels. I'm about to order a 7 speed cassette for it. But need help on deciding which to get. The Bafang G06 hub requires a cassette and looking at my options I'm getting confused! The bike is currently fitted with a Shimano MFTZ21 7 speed 14-28T freewheel, a single 44T front chainring and Tourney rear derailleur. The bike will be used 30% on the road, and 70% on trails. There are quite a few hills around me, but I can pedal quite hard if needed and have got up some steep hills with the fat bike without a motor (just). I believe that the following are my options? Shimano CS-HG200-7 12-32T Shimano HG41 7 Speed 11-28T Sunrace CSM63 7-Speed 11-28T SRAM PG 730 7 Speed 12-32T Does anyone know if the above are suitable/compatible and given that they have different cog sizes to the current freewheel will I need a different chain length and if so what/how do I go about making sure I get the correct length? Opinions/advice would be much appreciated as this is my first rear wheel build, plus I have never changed a rear cog setup before, so am quite confused about what to get. Images of the G06 hub (9 spline) and current freewheel if it helps:

John, in case you're interested in getting some more, I found these that look to be the same heavy weight tyre for £37.90 a pair or £19.90 each: https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Fincci-Pair-26-x-4-0-Inch-100-559-Fat-Tyres-Mountain-MTB-Mud-Dirt-Bike-Bicycle/203001533955?hash=item2f43d59603:g:jb8AAOSwERBfDbAM

Just spent a few hours looking at tyres. So many types and specs.

Thanks John, much appreciated.

Haha yeah went down the road (hill) on mine the other day. Having got used to my ebikes and their assistance I guess I wasn't expecting to go far with my fat bike. Was OK down hill and for the first 50 or so yards on the flat, kept going for another 100 yards and then decided I'd had enough knowing I had to go back up a hill. No choice but to do the old slow mo stand up and press with all my weight side to side action up the hill, must have looked a real sight. Felt like I'd done a 400 metre sprint!

Hi John, do you recall what make you used for the wire tyres?

OK, so maybe I meant easier to change the tube because the motor wire isn't in the way? that's easier to do surely and yes I know you can just pull the tube out and repair it, Thanks anyway for your comment!

Of course that doesn't help that I 'm in the process of building an electric fat bike! 26x4 Schwalbe Marathons?