Galaxya6

Hi, yes two thin wires and two larger ones for charging.

Hi. I tested each bank of cells, all reading 4V, 4.5A using my tester. Bike works fine.. no problem riding and putting the power down. Drained the battery to 88% but it won’t charge. Led on charger flashing and when bike switched on I get an err 3 and the motion graphic flashes. When charger unplugged the bike works fine. Thanks for everyone’s help so far.. hoping there is a work around to reset the BMS???

They are the same brand 2000mAh have tested the new cells and they were both fine. Pulling 4.2A at 4.2V using my tester.. I need to try on the bike.. it will work but once drained the battery probably will not charge as it sounds like the BMS doesn’t like being fiddled with.. I bet there is some software that allows the battery and the controller/BMS to be paired and this is lost when the battery is tampered with…

Hi, thanks for that sound advice. Have assembled the battery though out of the case.. I get 54V with my DVM… sadly when the charger is plugged in the LED still flashes .. I’ve put the battery on the bike and it reports 96% capacity which to me is a true load and not just a volt meter..is there a way of resetting the main control board to the battery BMS?

Sounds like a plan.. got two shiny cells charged up and ready to go in..got tabs on the battery so will be very careful soldering them!

Hi Andy.. I bypassed the duff cell and one of the others and charged the remaining 6 cells up to 3.8V as the others using a separate charger. When I plug the charger in when all cells are balanced the charger flashes indicating a battery fault☹️. Can’t believe it can detect two cells are out of circuit but maybe it can.. Have attached some photos!

Hi Andy.. battery stripped and measured across with load tester and one of the banks was low.. all others fine..found a rusty cell. Using this cheap tool.. great for testing 18650 cells!

Thanks guys.. I think I am fighting with this and the battery is knackered.. I’ll crack it open again. I have a ‘tester’ I can load check each bank of cells without taking the battery apart.. can use the connections to the BMS.. this wil detect a faulty set of cells hopefully! Thanks for all your help..

Hi, the display holds up with full capacity but it just switches straight off without any warning.. no indication of an issue with capacity/range.. in fact if the battery was weak it wouldn’t show the mileage range like it does I would have thought .. thanks Ian

Hi Andy it was in storage for as long as I have had the bike.. and when I checked the battery there was something odd. When I plugged the charger in it showed 3 LEDs.. I measured across each cell group and each group was good.. I suspect ( which is a bugger) that the control board (BMS) is goosed…

The battery LEDs light up in sequence low to high that indicates a battery fault. Though at the same time I get this on the display..

Hi all..my Elycan has developed a strange fault. It’s worked find since I replaced the torque sensor.. I hadn’t used it for a while and with a fully charged battery about 3 miles into a ride the bike switched itself off.. I’ve had the battery apart and all cells read well and it charges up fine. Now it switches itself off after about 100 yards and the only way to restore control is to plug in the charger. When the charger is plugged in the bike will switch on then switches itself off after a very short while.. I’ve cleaned all the plugs and sockets and this has made no difference.. has anyone got any ideas? Thanks Ian

Hi everyone.. just to let you know the problem was with the torque sensor.. all up and running now and I have ‘power’!!

Thanks vfr400, I appreciate your help. Really struggling to find a source for the torque sensor anywhere. The Part number is NUA093.. it’s a Panasonic/Shimano joint effort I believe. They are like Hen’s teeth! With my electrical hat on I can see if the strip was loose it would affect the magnetic properties of the sensor if it were loose and not attached. Hopefully it will work when superglued on.. any ideas how to get this bearing off.. I’ve tried pullers and removed the retaining screw. The splined shaft could just be rusted on! Also who would use an open bearing on a precision part like this??? Thanks Ian

Hi, I have taken the torque sensor apart and the foil strip has come away from the axle. This foil strip is used to detect pedal torque when it rotates within the coil which is centre tapped. I wonder if I ‘superglue’ the strip back it will provide the correct output and increase the motor output to that what would be expected. The strip appears to be corroded but I am reluctant to clean it as it may affect the magnetic properties? Thanks for looking

Checked out this link.. mine is obviously not working properly.. any ideas why a motor / controller would sort of half work.. does give a bit of help but not much. In the video in ‘High’ this bike is whizzing along with the same drive train as mine. It’s lacking power but still working, no errors on the display. Could the torque sensor be faulty?

C Used lithium grease and it seemed better and easier to turn. Put it all together and gave it a spin. It works fine, maybe I'm expecting more than I should. It accelerates well but I seem to have to put more effort in than thought...

Had the motor apart. Missed a circlip off the exploded photo! Checked between windings and get about 0.2 ohms across all 3 phases. There’s a fair reduction from the motor spindle to the drive ring so no wonder it’s a bit hard to turn. Not sure what lube to use, the gears are plastic. Will put it all together soon and see if it’s any better. There was some rust around the motor terminals which may have been tracking to the case.. it could be the reason. I couldn’t get to the Hall effect side as there is a bearing in the way and I don’t have the correct pullers

Agree. It’s exactly like you said. Will check windings for shorts and whether coils equally balanced..

Thanks, I did the test sorry. No difference I’m afraid. Like you said.. no clutch saw a previous post. Motor in bits . I’ll post an exploded photo of the motor. If anything it will help someone in the future. The trouble is I’m not sure how much effort it takes to turn a geared hub motor..should it spin a few turns with the wheel on? . mine will almost stop on a sixpence.... and it seems very noisy.

Hi again... would anyone know if the Panasonic rear hub motor on the Elycan has a clutch or not? It may explain if it has and is stuck why it’s so hard to turn the gears even disconnected from the bike?

I had the motor apart.. the planetary gears are in good condition.. it all seems very stiff but that must be how they are. Not sure whether grease or no grease.. there was some white grease in originally. There is a crap ball bearing arrangement at the cassette end. I’m surprised how much effort it take to turn a hub motor but with the wheel on it’s much easier but still needs some turning. Will give it a whirl later but having never ridden a decent e MTB bike I don’t know what to expect.. in Auto mode on the flat the motor occasionally tried to brake which isn’t right.. if that what’s happening all the time it may explain why the bike doesn’t seem to be powerful enough..anyone know how stiff the planetary gears should be? Cheers Ian

There’s very little ‘knowledge’ about this Panasonic rear hub motor.

Thanks, I stripped the motor down earlier... will give it a blast soon.. I think it’s a mechanical issue....

Hi, thanks Vfr400, the wheel circumference was set incorrectly but only about 7% out. Would this make a difference to the control system? It may calculate the assist differently based on a different wheel circumference?