MrSkinnyLegs

If anyone is interested, i read somewhere that loose cabling could be a problem. So i checked inside my pouch. The red cable from motors small 6pin connection felt a bit loose so i pushed it back in. I also checked the green/blue/yellow cable, pushed them as much as possible. Somehow the noise stopped. Will see if it is permanent.

I do not go wet, so debris would be quite difficult. Specially because yesterday my joy ride involved only tarmac. The motor has about 6000 miles. Think that can be the reason?

Hello, few bits of info. 1000w 48V voilamart controller, 13A 48V battery, motor supposed to hold up to 1000w. The motor was quiet and responsive. I changed the controller two weeks ago. Was working like a charm, yesterday had a joy ride for 20miles, all was good. Today i started pedaling and it sounded at begining like it was griding... In a way disk brakes grind when stopping with completely finished pads ( metal to metal ). I had to be places so i continued. After i reach approz 10km/h speed it changes to a sound of a car turbine if that makes sense. Power wise it still has it, but it is scary to think of what might happen when going on trails 50km/h. I have no display, pedal sensor and a throttle which i use only to start ( 1 pedal rotation ). What are worst case scenarios if i keep riding it? Will hub just stop working? Will it blow? The new controller does not heat up at all, unless i go on hilly trails for very extended times.

Damn. I am looking for new controller and throttle or lcd, does it matter what watts controller say or only Volts and Amps matter?

Right i tried rhe ohm test, and only got a reading of 0.05 on red + green cable, everything else is not reacting Rotor is supposedly 750W, but i saw same looking one which says its 1000, so no clue. No picture since i had to move it away having 3 other bikes in the way.. looks a simple black round hub. 26 inch wheel. Hub is approx 50% of the wheel

It did not unlock. I was riding uphill with throttle at 20-30% turned to cruise next to a walking person. It cut power for a moment and came back 2 times. I thought it was my finger slipping, but now i know it was already shorting. Finally it simply stopped and i saw smoke come from controller pouch ( it's half open for ventilation ). I cut battery power, put bike aside to see if anything else might happen and then inspected to find controller only mildly warm so i thought i might have blown a mosfet. I had to pedal home and it was as if i was pedaling my road bike on highest gear up 10% hill. I had to use all my weight standing to pedal and the wheel was making clicking sounds constantly. I knew that something was terribly wrong with hub, but it was hard to push it as if with brakes for 2kms. At home i dismantled all controller and checked every single cable. It was one of the six throttle cables, black which melted completely. Did not find signs of damage anywhere else on the bike including motor cable.

I have dismantled the controller, none of the mosfets are imploded, no blackness anywhere, cables completely fine except the throttle black cable. But chip and everything looks absolutely fine. I had everything disconnected to check every single cable and the wheel is locked. I am able to force spin it, but if you push it with force and let go it goes maximum 1/10th of a rotation and halts. Yes it is a dual mode controller. I assume i have no chance to change the hub wire myself, or it would cost nearly as a new hub?... Looking at it from outside it is the same as always, i assume damage is done inside ....

Hello, Long story short. My 36V throttle, black cable literally went up in smokes while i was cruising uphill. The problem is it fried on controller side. I normally never use it so it does not matter to me, however i have no way to turn my bike on(motor on ). Sensor is not working if i put battery in place and switch it on. Also on top of everything the rear hub "locked" it is very hard to pedal now and it makes clicking noise as if big gears were turning if that makes sense. I fear the short circuit told controller to do something like lock electrical break or something ( which i do not have ). Do any of you think that buying an lcd display would help me fix the problems, by being able to thun on motor etc? Thanks. PS : i have a soldering kit and multimeter and no experience , i could attempt to change the black wire? Bike stats "23a and 36v controller" and 48v battery ( 13amp).

Makes no sense I bet its funny and irritating at the same time for me to make such silly questions.

How exactly can i be gentle with PA? I only use throttle for start from standing ( while pedaling till i hit the sensor ).

Is there a way to find out motor voltage so i know if i can upgrade to 48V controller? I dont use the throttle anyways, might as well remove it. Assist is enough for me. That way the battery would work more efficiently , however the motor might not be able to handle the extra power if it is something like 500W 36V?

Can you elaborate regarding regarding the 22a at 48V? Since controller is 22 and battery is 48, that means controller voltage is not important?. I have close to zero knowledge about electronics sorry

Okay i assume what you mean is acceleration is harder on controller than staying at high speed. I red in another thread that having different Voltages between controller and battery/motor will cause damage. I guess i red wrong.

Hello! I am a tad confused and scared now reading that i might catch fire The person who did a conversion kit for me said the motor was a 500W motor. Controller reads 36V 22 A +-1. So that adds up to somewhere 750W? Off road i manage 44km/h without much effort. Now what got me confused was that the battery is 48V 13A? Is that the reason my controller gets hot to the touch or is it my pouch should have holes for vents or something? I dont seem to have problems with it besides controller saying 36V and battery being 48V.