carlbikekits

Quick question - embarrassed to even ask. If a battery pack has a 5A charge BMS, can I use a basic 2A charger? I don't like the idea of using a bigger charger you see as I read that fast charging can be dangerous. Thanks

Senquan, have you made any progress with this?

@[mention=25387]Bikes4two[/mention] how do you find the gearing on the Pendleton? I converted one to electric and I find that I'm out pedalling the gears very quickly. That is, I seem to pedal faster than the bike expects and so above a certain speed (say 12 mph approx) I'm pedalling but no torque, no gain. I get that it is a shopping bike and so the gearing isn't the same as a mountain bike, for instance. Wondered what your experience was on your Pendleton? Thanks

Sure, SEQURE SQ-SW2 welder. Just worked fine.

I've been testing the battery on my commute. Range and reliability are my two main needs. Running through the miles so far with over 30 miles and half battery remaining. This is on 4 as standard and 5 on hills. I'm one who doesn't see the point in using pedal power if you've got a battery. So I want to test properly on real world usage. I chose LCD3 as I anecdotally believed that this would tell me some power info that my trusty little LCD4 won't. I'm yet to see it so am I missing something? I can see the watts drawn (typically 220W and higher at start) and that it is 36V. I was hoping it would tell me something else, say how efficient the battery build is? Sandwich method aside, am I safe with my 0.15 nickel 10S2P 10A little build? Thank you

These are LG M50LT 21700 with 5Ah and max discharge 10A I've attempted the copper/ nickel plated sandwich and will need a more expensive welder. Also, have read through the forum thread (thanks) and it seems that, even with a KWeld, many are having hit and miss with the strength of the weld (my main concern). So, I'm wondering if 0.15 nickel is just fine for my 10S2P 10Ah? I don't know the maths of it all. But I get good welds and my battery is working so far. Also, my controller is continuous 7A but max 14A. So assuming that's sufficient? Any sticky thread on the maths of battery making would be appreciated. Thanks

Thanks. Had a read. A lot to get my head around there. In your 21700 build - are you completing a single weld of both copper and NP combined? Or a weld of copper plus a weld of NP? - you've cut copper squares rather than strips/H? All fine? Thank you again

This is great feedback. Thank you. I'm going to look more into the copper and nickel thing. Any reason not to use pure nickel (rather than coated), other than price? Many thanks

Hi, I have completed a 10 Ah battery and, as well as my own learning, would appreciate thoughts and improvement suggestions relating to safety, performance and electrical maths. Key points: 10S2P using branded 5mAh cells Daly 20A BMS Waterproof Common Port 30A Internal Fuse 0.15mm nickel strips 17A 200W Cables XT90 connector 7A KT controller BMS wiring *will need to lengthen wiring to house fuse outside heatshrink battery wrap Spot welds of 0.15mm nickel using SEQURE SQ-SW2 welder *ok but could upgrade welder* BMS soldering Covered all points with heat resistant tape Hot glued BMS. *Far too much length on BMS wiring. Thinking will cut to size? Surrounded with battery insulation paper Wrapped in heatshrink and will house in LIPO bag. * Thinking upgrade to 14A controller with XT connectors Thank you for your time

How? Lol You replace the bullet connectors, I'd assume?

How are you connecting to KT controller using the XT60?

Ah, yes I see now. Final question if I may. On/off switch. Do you rely on the lcd for power on/off? What would safety protocol say? Thank you for your patient insight.

So I sourced a Daly as I wanted the waterproofing and now realise it is common port. Regarding the charge, what connection are you using to go from XT60 to a common charger? I am using XT90 but can only find this with a male charging connector. I would have thought that it would need to be a female connection and a common charger plugs the male connector into a female port which is wired to the XT60/90? Thank you

Great instructables. Where is the charging cable? Would you not have a charging cable from the BMS? Thanks

How might this be secured within a frame? I can see where it may sit but how to stop it rattling? Presume an exit hole would be needed to be engineered?

This may depend on the motor used in the Swytch wheel. Does anyone know the motor and controllers used?

Hi pedelecs, Anyone with experience of hub motor noise? It sounds like a consistent but relatively quiet rattle. I've removed the motor out and the gear cogs could be more flush. There is a 2-3mm gap near the circlip which allows the gearing to give across the axle a little. See image attached. I'm wondering if that could be doing it? Will a thicker circlip do the trick? Your thoughts appreciated, as always. Best wishes

Thanks. It is covered in coating but, with your advice, I'm thinking of pulling the wires out and injecting silicone to double protect any chance of a short. What do you think?

I'm looking at this internal controller at bmsbattery Rather than have to manage wiring that is not needed (throttle, brake), how can I reduce the cables involved? Can I cut close to the board and just heat tube the ends? Any ideas welcome please. Thanks

http://www.szktdz.com/en/news_show.php?article_id=485 Is this not exactly what I'm looking for? KT Bluetooth dongle? Assuming it works with any KT controller? Seems difficult to find. Can anyone add any background or insight, please? Best wishes

Hi I've found a motor with inbuilt sensor I'd like to use. Hence, it has a 10 pin motor cable. All KT controllers I find have the standard 9 pin + PAS + Display. In an ideal world, I'd find a 10 pin to 9pin + PAS cable but I haven't found anything online. The manufacturer has suggested a 10 pin to 9 pin adaptor cable which ofcourse won't accommodate the PAS cable, so not a solution. I'm not confident playing with cable and wondered, is there a go to person who had the expertise to put something together? Any recommendations? Best wishes

Use the display cable to add Bluetooth capability. Use a phone app as a handlebar display. Like this https://shop.eggrider.com/eggrider-v2 But simpler and cheaper. Lishui have confirmed that they no longer supply their version.

Hello, Looking for a Bluetooth plugin / dongle thing that accepts a julet display cable. All I've found are hints at Lishui - but nothing on their website or a kickstarter Egg? which didnt complete. Has anyone found a definitive, simple and commercially available solution? Many thanks, Carl

All sorted! So from reading previous threads I took a punt that its a 5:1, 20 magnet MXUS XF07 hub motor from Cyclotricity and amended the P1 setting to 100. Works an absolute dream! Thanks pedelecs

I'm now reading that the Cyclotricity hub is a geared motor though. There's some resistance when reverse freewheeling. These P settings are really non-user friendly. Can anyone advise the P1 setting if its a geared motor as getting the info out of Cyclotricity is like blood from a stone