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Thank you all for the replies

Hi, following on from my previous post I have looked the existing PAS sensor and see no reason for the half turn to get a motor signal so I wonder as I have a KT36/48ZWSRM controller and LCD3 and am having issues with the traditional right side pas sensor only sending a signal after 1/2 turn of the crank. this is a10 magnet one and spaced correctly. I was wondering if a new left side KT 12l would work with this controller? and do you need sizes? thank you Alistair Bristol uk

I am utterly confused by this c4 settings options wording. I am trying the “imitation” torque setting P4 =1 but not sure if that’s the best choice. C4 value P4=0 # 0 zero = startup throttle P4=1 # 0 Non-zero startup throttle WHAT IS ZERO START UP please? setting 3 and 5 in my book has retain printed what does that mean? Depending which online version of the kt3 manual I look at , the C4 parameter choices seem to vary. I live in the U.K. and do not want ,if stopped, trouble , so I’m looking for the best solution to the throttle rules and the fact that to start my trike by pedal power only is a non starter. It takes, even with the C5 setting on = 10 and c14 = 3 , about half a turn with a 10 magnet pas sensor to get the motor running. Ideally I should like to get a quick boost up to the 4 mph throttle only speed, giving me time to start pedalling and if in pas level 5 will get then full throttle with the throttle lever on full if I stop pedalling the throttle revers to the max 4 mph setting. I hope this makes some kind of sense to you i’m sure give the choices between using P4 setting of 1 or 0 and the C 4 option this should achievable or nearly achievable ? thank you for reading this post.

QUESTION EDITED, I bought a new 750 watt Bafang hub motor which comes with a different plug fron their 250/350/500 size motors. is there a commercially available cable to join the small round 9 pin socket in the harness and the larger 9 pin plug on the motor? The controller is a 25 amp max out put controller powered by 48 volt batteries so adequate although the smaller cable size could be a concern if worked hard for any period, not so?

So if my batteries are panasonic rated as 48 volt - 15Ah - 720Wh. And 48 volt - 17.5 - 840Wh the controller should be what rated amp and what max amp please?

Please can I find out if looking for the specifications for a controller does the max rated amps allowed change with motor watts?

Nope all plugs l

Yes identical batteries motors identical I tend to follow her i try to match her cadence at lowest pas 1/2 I wonder if I have made some screw up when setting up on the lcd 3 display?

Thanks I have tried hard to only use pas 1 or 2 and reduced the chain wheel by 4 teeth to get a better hill and pull away with pedals, but either of my batteries go flat long before my wife‘s one do , she gets far more range on a identical etrike. we have swopped bikes and batteries around but makes no difference.the only difference is hers still has has the original 11 amp max Lishui controller and mine got changed to kt 18 amp.

Thank you , Nealh, for the reply. So if I know my battery is 48 volt 17 amp hour capacity is there a formula to set the controller to a lower power setting with out sacrificing to much of the uphill grunt that having C5 at 10 gives. if memory serves me right the controller is a 18 or 20 amp max output controller .

High watts advantages? I was looking at the official Bafang product catalog and noticed to my surprise that every motor model that offers 250/500/750 watts option list exactly the same max torque. - What benefit therefore does buying a larger wattage motor give you? - And What benefit do you gain by using 48 volt over 36 volts? By changing the max amps that the control is set to via C5 for example from setting 10 to 04 what effect has this on battery power vs miles achieved ?

Your comments on Jorvic noted. installing a higher capacity controller and matching display presents no electrical issues but does give you more power but not speed. Speed is normally associated with battery volts size . battery capacity is associated with how many hours it will supply before being empty. any wire that is looped from the controller body and back to the body regardless of colour might well be the low speed switch, it should not require cutting and should have plug in it.

If you can’t be constructive why answer? The reply from flec while welcome did not answer my original question and my 2nd further question which was actually addressed to Saneeagle (hence the inclusion of his previous reply.) His excellent detailed response is useful not for my understanding but giving a sound basis to a future discussion with any form of law enforcement , over the use of a throttle and not pedalling an e-bike in the U.K.

Thank you had not thought of that option.

Yes that’s not located where I described unfortunately, now I know what you have. I don’t think you can bypass that type hence my description of the location, two images below might help but I doubt it. My understanding is that with that controller set up you will have to change the controller and display unit, might well be achievable you will need all the details off your controller and search for a alternative. there are U.K. based importers who might be able to assist with that? Also seems odd that cutting that wire had no apparent effect it won’t be there for the fun of it?