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grumpyG

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  1. Hi. Sorry I missed your reply. I'm starting to get to grips with how all these things work and I'd happily take a look but I'm in Paignton Devon. I assume you have a working charger for it?
  2. Thanks for that. The Daly was easy to fit at least . I bought two step through e bikes for not a lot as I couldn't confirm the batteries were any good. One bike just needed a charger and a mudguard and was brand new really - sold it for more than twice what I paid for both. This is the bike I'm keeping - I love the thing and it cost me nothing even with the BMS, gear cable and a mudguard. The 7 speed hub gear is a revelation after a lifetime of derailleur gears. I've ridden 26 very comfortable Devon miles today and have a ride in Cornwall planned for tomorrow. Thanks again.
  3. Hi. It's been ages - I fitted a Daly BMS a few weeks ago - battery and bike work perfectly again. I enjoyed the soldering task and ended up with a very neat job - thanks for all your help. I now know a bit more about these things and the bike is great for exploring the Devon lanes. Cheers
  4. Time to bight the bullet and fit a new BMS I guess. Can you guide me to a suitable one? Thanks for everything - It's interesting and I'm starting to understand a bit more about these things now.
  5. Disconnected white connector and cut cable to b+. All connected again and exactly the same state. I assume the 3 transistors in a row should have power on them? None at all on any pin of any of them.
  6. Mother end! Both ends
  7. Resistor is fine. My eyesight doesn't help - I'll try to resolder mother end.
  8. There's a very good way, thatbwirk snfie me after knee replacements, but it can be expensive...
  9. Hi. Sorry it's been so long. Been at work for a few days. I last used my soldering iron at work (repairing crap wiring on a Halfords E bike) and now can't find the thing. I bought a new one yesterday... And YES! I saw the twisted resistor and turned it as best I could and added some fluxed solder. Now charge level lights don't work and still have only 12v at the o/p. Suspect I've butchered the tiny resistor. Shame I can't just connect the two grounds together to get the 41v at the o/p..... Think it's time to give up and fit a new BMS? I can't find the same one online of course and I'm guessing the white connector and it's orientation isn't the same on all of them? I'm tempted to buy a new battery and carrier from Yose Power - it'll be about £200 though and I'd enjoy the challenge of fitting a new BMS... Thanks again!
  10. I'll give it a go. Why that resistor? The red wires go to the LED battery level thingy on the side of the battery box. Cheers
  11. Sorry read that and last sentence is wrong - battery o/p -ve to battery o/p +be. You noticed my typo I'm sure but just to be clear...
  12. Ok... 4.1 8.2 12.3 16.5 20.6 24.7 28.8 32.9 37 41.1 Meter from B- to +ve battery output = 41.1v Meter from battery o/p -ve to battery o/p = 12.2v
  13. Great thanks. I did a video to show them but it wrong format for here. Going across the white connector in the photo I get about 3.4v per output (total about 36v) if I measure from charge port negative but it's all much lower from main battery negative ... If it was a simple thing I'd suggest an earthing issue but I dunno? The charge indicator LEDs show the real state of the battery by the look of it and the charger 'says' it's charged. Feel like there may be a dry joint or a disconnect somewhere. What do you suggest? Thanks again
  14. Ok thanks. I bought the bike a few weeks ago very cheaply with the aim of selling it on but totally love the thing now. I'll open the battery up. Thanks for your help. Graham A Paignton Devon
  15. No straight from the battery terminals when not connected. Thanks for this! I'm a bike mechanic with just a bit of electrical knowledge...
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