SafetyThird

Yes but the son dynohub only outputs a few watts so would make a rubbish motor I think. I’d like to get a USB output adapter for the big battery as powering a phone for the day for navigation wouldcause minimal drain on a battery this size.

The other wheel I have has a Son dynohub. One of the cables powers the Dynamo lights, the other powers the PowerBug USB charger to charge up a power pack or my phone.

Thank you, hopefully now sorted and something I’ll double check in future. Also added a Velcro tie wrap for securing the cable.

Oh good idea. I think I have a few for sorting electrical cables in the drawer. I’ll dig one out.

I added a removable zip tie to close up the loop a bit.

Thanks [mention=29130]Jodel[/mention] ill have a read through

Thanks [mention=6303]Woosh[/mention] thats put my mind at ease.

Thinking about the torque arm conversation earlier, while it may not be necessary, is it a good idea for peace of mind given that it's a cheap thing to do? If so, what sort of kit should I be looking at?

thanks, I’ll do that. Will make it a removable tie wrap so it’s easy to drop the wheel out for puncture repair etc.

Was up early this morning so went out to the garage to finish up. Installed the wiring as neatly as I could, though it might be changed later, will see if there’s anything that rubs or pulls after a couple of rides. then took it for a quick test ride. Wheeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeee! Everything works very well, I think it’s going to be a real boon on the local hills and encourage me to get out more now that I know I won’t be left pushing the bike up hills when my legs won’t carry me any further. I’ll be able to start working on my fitness again and also reduce the number of car journeys by doing grocery runs to the local town by bike. Will update after a few rides with how it’s all going.

I ground down the bracket screws so they didn’t protrude past the bracket. Then I glued a couple of strips of old inner tube to the bracket and mounted it back up.

I looked at the one [mention=38589]Cadence[/mention] mentioned but it's not as long effectively as the one I went for because of the section below the cutout for the bottle boss bolts. I've now fitted it and, as you can see, there's just enough room for the bottle to fit on the downtube. The bracket bends down slightly until the top bolt touches the downtube. I'll grind the bolts down so they're flush with the bracket and glue a piece of inner tube on to the back of the bracket so that it doesn't rub against the down tube. I think a single extra rivnut might be a good idea at some point, or perhaps get a proper one brazed in if I'm going to keep this as a long term option. The bracket does flex a bit but there's room to put a jubilee clip around the bracket and clamp it in place. Because I'm not mounting it to the downtube directly, the little rounded plastic washers that come with the kit aren't used and I might trim them to fit underneath the bracket and then put a jubilee clip over the top, there's room between the battery mount and the bracket.

Any particular reason? Everything I’ve read says that torque arms are only usually used on aluminium forks but it’s ok on steel. My forks are steel so thought I’d be ok. Happy to add one if folks think it worthwhile.

That looks to be the same one I bought. Saw it on AE but wanted it today

tyre and tube arrived from SJS cycles so into the garage. once fitted to the wheel and offered up , I found the dropouts are a little too narrow so out with a couple of files and a few minutes later, the wheel slotted in. Then found that I needed to remove one of the washers from one side and put the plain washer inside the dropout lock washer to keep the wheel even between the forks so the hub doesn't rub. Once done, it spins in place nicely. I'd have liked the option for a black version of the hub as everything else on the bike is black but you can't have everything. Now to adjust the brakes for the new rim, which is slightly wider than my old one and that'll be another step completed.

Very neat, thanks for pointing that out. I'd like to keep it above the bottom bracket, just to keep it out of potential harms way hitting things but will give that some thought when I have time to consider a replacement.

I looked at the adapter that Andy suggested but I think it's too short given that the water bottle bosses on the Thorn are at the very bottom of the tube. I've found an alternative that I think will work from the measurements given and from measuring up the bike. https://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/product/B0BBM1CY3W/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1 Will find out tomorrow. Meanwhile, I've had to modify the sensor for the crank a little as with the two supplied pieces it was too thick to fit between the chainwheel and the downtube. 2 mins with a Stanley knife and it fits, I also swapped out the Phillips head screw for a stainless hex bolt as I hate having screw heads on the bike generally, they always corrode and get chewed up. I may play with designing and 3d printing something that fits a bit more precisely and lock in place against the curves of the tube and bottom bracket casing, but that'll have to wait until I have a bit more spare time, I'm still a complete novice with Tinkercad. I've mounted the display on the bars and just waiting for a new tyre and tube to arrive this afternoon and tomorrow I'll hopefully have the rest of it put together.

Thank you everyone, I had no idea you could get adapters. Should have thought to ask. [mention=6303]Woosh[/mention] I’ll message Andy in the morning. Thanks.

After al the help I received in choosing this kit, I figured I'd post a thread on the installation which may be of use to others but also for me to ask a few specific questions as well. Kit received within 48 hours of ordering from Whooshbikes, all securely packed. Offering up the battery to the frame showed that I can't use the bottle bosses on the downtube, they're too low and would mean I couldn't use the bottle cage on the seat tube. So, I need to add three rivnuts to the downtube. It's a steel bike so I don't want to use aluminium rivnuts due to possible galvanic corrosion. Stainless seem like the best option. There's two rivnuts included with the whoosh bike kit but I'm not sure what material they are and I'd need three so amazon can deliver those. I'm going to need a right angle adapter for my drill because even my small pneumatic drill won't fit in the space for the top two holes that need to be drilled. Also going to need a rivnut tool as I think using the nut and spanner trick may be ok for aluminium rivnuts but I doubt it would be reliable for steel going into steel. So, now I need to figure out what tool will fit into that space. Off to Amazon again. I really want something like this https://www.amazon.co.uk/Proster-Thread-Setter-Metric-Mandrels/dp/B0839CKVBW/ref=d_bmx_dp_n96d588o_sccl_4_3/257-8128157-3978527?pd_rd_w=YHSmx&content-id=amzn1.sym.89225240-8a77-485f-8acf-5ccf81e8216e&pf_rd_p=89225240-8a77-485f-8acf-5ccf81e8216e&pf_rd_r=Q4ZFXVW497DQQF0CKPVW&pd_rd_wg=i5Rh6&pd_rd_r=7697d185-eac9-4600-86ae-c889fb5a39f5&pd_rd_i=B0839CKVBW&th=1 which is beefy enough to do any type of rivnut but while the levers will be either side of the top tube in use, I'm not sure if the head will fit into the required gap. Anyone used one of these before? The ones that look like pop rivet guns I'm not sure if they're strong enough to do a steel rivnut into a steel frame reliably. Would appreciate any advice from those that have done this before. I've fitted the magnet disk to the chainwheel with epoxy. Not sure of the longevity of that as a solution so I'll probably try and design up and 3d print a version I can screw on to the chainring instead of glueing it. so now it's off to peruse amazon and look at rivnut gun options.

Absolutely cannot fault the customer service at Woosh. email replies within 30 minutes, asked questions and for photos to ensure I'm getting the most suitable parts for my bike and advised on a couple of questions I asked about e-bikes in general. After everything I've read about the customer service at Swytch, this sort of response bodes much better for a reliable bike install and support if it's needed. Thanks again to everyone who suggested Woosh.

After a couple of email exchanges with Andy at Woosh bikes, I've just ordered a front hub kit with 20AH downtube battery. Looks like I'll be wooshing around very soon

Good morning everyone, and thank you all for such helpful replies, that's certainly given me much to consider. Guerney, I'm so sorry you've had to deal with such dreadful people and very glad you were able to get away from them. After reading everything, it confirms that a front hub is the only option with my bike so [mention=6303]Woosh[/mention] I'll be in touch with you later today to see what we can put together to suit my needs. I'll be sure to post up here when I have a solution and then as I put it all together.

The bike has an eccentric bottom bracket for chain tensioning because of the Rohloff hub, so rear hub or mid drive motors can’t be fitted. It’s front hub motor or nothing I think.

Hello all, I've recently been considering a Swytch conversion kit for one of my bikes. Looking for reviews etc led me to this site and I'm currently reading threads to see if there's a better alternative given the time it takes to get a Swytch kit and the dubious customer support I'm reading about. I'd appreciate some suggestions of what alternatives might be out there. The bike I'd be converting is a Thorn Raven with a Rohloff rear hub, which is why I'm looking at a front wheel conversion. It's all steel tube and has a steel fork and 26" wheels. It's set up as a touring bike with pannier rack and bar bag, though the bar bag is on an extender because I have On-One Geoff handle bars. I'm 57 and while I'm very active, over the past few years I've become fairly unfit and have developed a knee issue so I'm not running these days. Cycling is a good option to try and rebuild some fitness. However, I live on a farm in very hilly north Devon, you need to be fit just to go anywhere with our hills. I'm looking at the e-bike conversion so that I can get some assistance on hills while being able to turn it off when on the flat so I can work on my fitness but still make it up hills with assistance when needed to save getting off and walking. I also would like to use it for picking up shopping from the local town to save using the car sometimes but I don't currently because with the extra weight of shopping in the panniers it's just more than I can manage getting home up the hills. Range wise, I think up to 30-40 miles max would be plenty for shopping and local days out as I wouldn't use the power all the time. When I've regained some fitness, I'd like to go back to doing some touring again so would just remove the battery and change out the front wheel for the one I currently have with a Schmitt dynohub to give me lights at night and charge my phone, so a kit that's modular and with easily removed parts is wanted. I'm pretty capable mechanically, I built up my old triathlon bike from scratch components in the past, I'm renovating an old car and know electrics, having built amplifiers etc from components as well so I don't expect there to be anything I can't manage if I were to buy either a kit or individual parts. I have a pretty well equipped workshop on the farm. So, any suggestions of kits that might fit the bill would be appreciated, along with personal opinions on the Swytch kit as well as I'm on their waiting list and so like the look of what they're offering, it's just the backup and order time that seems a bit worrying. Many thanks, Jay.