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Presterjohn

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  1. It's the LCD5. You can set the wheel size anywhere between 6 inches and 28inches so it must be capable of turning at a higher speed. I'm just using the KT controller, I don't know anything about the ones you refer to. I'm just looking at this from an engineering perspective. For example my metal turning lathe has only a 1 h.p. motor but has a gearbox that gives speeds of from 40rpm to 2400rpm. The torque at low speed is sufficient to take 3mm cuts from a steel blank 300mm diameter. So my reasoning is that if you want to climb steep hills then gear the motor down more.
  2. When I first got this kit from PSW power [rear wheel, xf08 and all the rest] and fired it up to try it the speed went to 75kph. Once I had set it up to 25kph it must have been going only at 1/3rd of the previous speed. So I was reasoning that if I used one of these as a mid-drive and ran it at higher speed I would get much better hill climbing. I wanted to see the curves to see if when you increase the speed the power just dropped off.
  3. Thanks, those curves are what I am looking for. I want to investigate whether there is any advantage in gearing the output down more.
  4. Hi, does anyone know where I can find the performance curves for an mxus xf08 hub motor? I would like to see the power output / rotation speed curve and the torque/speed curve. I can't find this information anywhere. Thank you.
  5. I've got it working now, the sketch was very helpful. There are two connectors which fitted the throttle, I had plugged it into the one that went directly to the controller. That was why it gave me 36V, not 5V. So thanks for the help.
  6. Hi, i've tried this and it's not working. I wonder if I misunderstood you. There is 36volts across the red and black wires. I have divided this down with resistors to about 3.5volt and switched this voltage onto the blue wire. it does nothing but the system still works but as before. The P1 is 88, P2 is 1, P3 is 1, P4 is 1 , P5 is 11. C1 is 2, C2 is 0, C3 is 8, C4 is 3, C5 is 10, C6 is 3. Are these correct? It's very easy to alter one by mistake. Thank you
  7. Hi, is there any consensus on the reliability/ useability on one of these hubs in a 250 watt transmission?
  8. Ok , good, that is most helpful, thank you.
  9. Hi, thank you. Is it possible to use an ON/Off pushbutton instead of the thumb throttle?
  10. Thank you. It sounds like it would certainly be worth doing. What about the scenario when you have to stop on a hill and can't get pedalling at all so that the PA S sensor will start the motor?
  11. Hello, I would like to have this facility. Please could you explain it in more detail. The throttle I got with the psw power kit is a thumb throttle and I never fitted it because I understood that this was illegal in the UK. I don't know how to reprogramme the controller either. Thank you.
  12. Thank you, I've got the motor running but it shows only 34kph on the display. Is there a way to reset it? I don't think it's going at maximum speed. Attached pics of the frewheel chainset and bike frame. There is a problem connecting the controller to the motor. The motor connector has 9 seperate pins and the controller has a white 9 pin block. The pins will slide into the block and it works but it looks like it should have something better. I've just put bits of sleeving over the brass pins to prevent them shorting out.
  13. Hi, I've made a freewheel chainset. The question is what sprockets would work best? I have a 24T and a 34T which I have bolted onto the toothless freewheel. I made an adapter to screw it onto the crank which is a steel one from from a really cheapo chainset I had. I was wondering what the ideal rotation speed of the motor would be? Which of the sprockets should I use for the chain for the motor? The fixie on the motor is 17T and the rear cassette is 7 speed. I can get other sprockets if need be.
  14. Hi , I see now that the crank has to freewheel, whereas you don't need a freewheel on the motor. I can just loctite the sprocket on the motor to its thread. If I use 638 it'll never come loose or i could use nut locking grade which would enable me to remove it. I have a fixie that will fit. I'll look into the freewheel crank, perhaps you could PM me with details and price of yours please. The crankcase isn't a casting, it's an old saucepan! The cylinder mounts are fabricated from thin sheet and fixed with JB weld and body filler, the mounts are brazed onto the pan. I machined the base to take the other end of the motor. It machines pretty easy, it's thin stainless and aluminium in the middle. You can buy those freewheels with mounting holes on Amazon, I have one on a little lathe.
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