jarnold

The only one that could be logically answered is the last one, possibly, but even that answer could not be based on the information given.

Really? Where were the candidates taken from? A kindergarten?

My KT does use the hall sensors for speed limiting, and as far as I know, it's not a setting. Whereas the speed display could be derived from the hall sensors if I changed the settings, but it wouldn't work too well as the hub has a freewheel. However, I could be wrong - it happened once before in May 1976.

As has been pointed out before, the max speed comes from the motor hall effect devices, whereas the indicated speed can come from another sensor.

My bike has a front hub motor, but the speed sensor is on the back wheel, so you need to actually ride it to determine the maximum speed.

Because then they'd be traceable, via registration plates, sanctionable, via penalty points etc., apart from being more expensive. Also noisier, which might be a consideration if you're trying to stay under the radar.

Anybody who can work with Eclipse is a hero.

I think you should. Just thinking out loud, as it were...

I suppose, in an ideal world, you'd coulomb count, with auto calibration at full charge and death, but that's not really practical when the battery's charged from an external source, while the controller is off. Another way might be to somehow factor in the current draw along with the voltage to give a more accurate capacity reading? Not really worth the faff for a one off, though.

You can't really get much simpler than a moving average! I had an algorithm for bar graphs on satellite dish alignment meters that could otherwise be very jittery, but I can't remember off the top of my head how it worked. It was a bit more complicated than a simple moving average, but gave very good results.

AliExpress lists that motor as "Freewheel 6S 9S", whatever that means..

I believe you need to swap two of the phase wires(the three thicker wires) and the corresponding two of the hall sensors wires. However, that may only work if it's a direct drive hub with no free wheel. But I'm no expert.

I set P1 to 117. Works great now! Have to put in a bit of leg power at the very top of the hill, where it gets a bit steeper, but I'm very pleased. Thanks for all the help. I may see if I can resurrect the rear dropout torque sensor now.

Ok, I thought you were referring to one of my threads. Anyway, it all makes perfect sense. I'll go for a test ride later.

Although I must have missed where you said that in the other thread.