GSol

I have been trying to read all the threads about battery salvaging and building on the forum, thanks to all who posted that info, it has been helpful in giving me the guts to open the 3 non-working batteries I have. What I would like to do is salvage the 3 non-working batteries into a working 1 for my Alien Pulsar electric folder. It used to be working until this happened: http://i61.photobucket.com/albums/h76/gsolker/Alien%20Aurora%20Electric%20Bicycle/IMGP7617.jpg It seems to only be 1 ruptured cell, but those pouches are very difficult to separate to inspect in better detail. I also have 2 of these: http://i61.photobucket.com/albums/h76/gsolker/Alien%20Aurora%20Electric%20Bicycle/IMGP7607.jpg Both of them don't want to be charged by the standard charger. One reads 33.8V, and the other 37.5V. The second one can run the motor for a few minutes, but then drops below 36V and doesn't want to charge on the charger again. The individual cells are very varied. Some are below 3V, most between 3-4V, and a few over 4V. I have a variable power supply, but I am hesitant to use it too long, as it seems to be getting very hot trying to charge individual cells or shorter strings (I disconnected all the wires and charged 8 cells in series at 32V - the maximum my power supply can push. I tried a few individual cells at 4V as well, they went up to 3.9ish and then stayed there while the power supply got very hot. I haven't cut any of the tabs across the terminals for 2 reasons - I do not have a cutting tool that won't possibly short across terminals, and I am not confident that my plan to build one from scratch is going to work, so don't want to cut something that I cannot undo! Any advice would be much appreciated...

Yeah, I was thinking that, but is it going to upset the cyclists who get there first? Maybe I should just ask them before the light changes hehehe... I doubt most would keep up with my Aurora, but the next morning they may not be too civil when they see me again...

Or is it just a starting line for a mini-race? They have just upgraded an traffic light intersection here and added the advanced stop zone. I have cycled this route for years, but this has caused some strange behaviour now. This morning, there were cyclists entering this zone from the pavement, the left of the cars on the road, inbetween the cars in the lanes and even in the oncoming car lane to get in front. We all ended up in a line, and I arrived there almost last, what should be the etiquette? Do I just take the lead? If it is close, should I stay next to the other cyclists at the same speed and block the cars behind us? Is it a race to get in front? Tried to find some explanation on the normal cyclist rules, but it doesn't seem clear. Did I miss that part? :confused: [this is an example of the advanced stop zone - http://ukcyclerules.com/wp-content/uploads/2011/08/asz-infringement.jpg This is the only info I found on entering them Advanced stop zones | UK Cycle Rules - information on cycling law in England and Wales and this is a leaflet I found on them - http://www.shef.ac.uk/polopoly_fs/1.84004!/file/Advance_Stop_lines.pdf ]

Thanks for all the suggestions and I don't feel so alone in my frustration! I reckon I would feel a bit better if I was trying something silly (and deserved to fall), but I was going straight uphill over a long bridge probably at only 5-8mph and trying to stay out of cars way, and just a random bit of ice (almost the entire rest of the way to work was defrosted from car heat on main roads) and bike just went sliding. The worst part is lifting the heavy bike off the road alone after being dazed and waiting for the expected post-adrenalin pain to start. Only took a few seconds for the knee and then 10 minutes for the thumb and wrist. Some awesome photos of Denmark... at first glance I thought that was an e-kickbike, with a bottle battery but then saw no motor...

After falling twice in this past week trying to invent a new hybrid ice skating electric biking sport, I set out to purchase winter tyres. The cheapest set would set me back £80, and good (recommended) set well over that. Is it just me, or does that severely kill off the cost saving benefit of cycling versus driving for short commutes? My little car can easily handle the thin ice, whereas with the Aurora, the high centre of mass just needs a slight off-balance skid and its a long way down from the big bike for the cyclist. My second fall was not pleasant and the first time I realised how important a helmet is! I honestly only recall landing on my knee and left hand and the bike sliding, but later I found scrapes and bruises all around my body, and most scarily, a huge gash on the top of my helmet! No idea how that could even have happened. And once again, nobody bothered to help me up (I was obviously struggling with an injured knee), just cars trying to get around me with drivers looking impatient and irritated. Anyway, the commute with my car would be about £2 per day and £1 parking. That would take about 30 ice trips to pay back the tyres. Last year there were only about 12-15 days where it was iced like that. So it would take me 2 years to pay back that cost (possibly over simplified). Why are the bike winter tyres almost the same price as my car tyres? Is it just for the studs? The rubber can't be "that" much more expensive. Maybe I'm just frustrated that I can't bend my knee for a while and thus cannot cycle and I need something to be angry about!

So did you fit new winter tyres on the Aurora? I saw the ice too late this morning and slid and fell sideways, but survived with only a bruised ego and torn rain trousers. I am now looking for studded tyres for my Aurora. Does width matter? My current tyres are 26x1.75. Narrowed down to these 2 options: Schwalbe Snow stud 26x1.9 Schwalbe Marathon Winter 26x1.75 Or I am open to better or cheaper suggestions... Thanks!

Yes Simon did mention that! I just thought it would be easier to just pop over with the little plate rather than the whole wheel - silly me! I know for next time...

Yesterday and today I've battled with my Aurora. All sorts of muck was in and around the gear set. I had to disassemble the motor in order to remove the plate that the freewheel is attached to, then by unplugging the motor wires connectors at the controller I could remove it completely from the bike. So with the freewheel still attached to the motor plate, I went to Moons Cycles in Ipswich around the corner from me, and they were really helpful, Simon the manager in particular, who spent quite a while trying and successfully freed the freewheel from the plate. It was so tight that he had to screw the plate down into some wood on the workbench in order to use enough torque through the tool to free the freewheel! To top it all off, they wouldn't accept any payment! Rare excellent service and I will no doubt return there for all my future purchases. I shall be re-assembling everything tomorrow, should I be doing anything while I have it all open: Grease the motor? Use any specific oil/lubrication on the new freewheel/gearset? Clean anything?

Not quite sure what this thread evolved into, perhaps it should be moved to the pedelexxx part of the forum I realised a strange thing today. After being forced to use throttle only for a few days now until my freewheel spares arrive, I think that I actually really miss pedalling! The irony is I specifically bought a bike for it's throttle function (to be lazy), but it managed to actually get me to enjoy the true cycling+pedalling+effort part of e-biking which I seemed to have just developed into without realising it... now I think its most handy just to take the edge off the hills rather than turn you into a lazy cyclist. Too deep for me. Must be time for bed...

If only my bike had space for a bumper-sticker saying that!

Thanks for all the assistance, have sent you an email via your sales email on your website.

Thanks, but I think I may have worded my questions wrong... Do your gearsets come with the freewheel or do I need to buy a separate one? and do I need the (freewheel) tool to fit it? i.e. is it just hand tightened or fitted like an oil filter on a car that only needs a removal tool and not a tightening one? I was thinking of getting it removed at a bike shop, but would I have to get them to install the new one as well? Or should I buy the tool?

Hi John, so if I want to purchase the 7 speed 11-32t freewheel from you, does that mean I don't need the freewheel removal tool as it comes with the gear-set? I am a bit confused about what is necessary for me to replace my faulty freewheel and gear set with the one you are selling? Thanks...

Thanks for all the replies... I think that, based on price, and the fact that I do struggle to keep up with the throttle that perhaps an 11T replacement is a good idea. Flecc, thanks for the instruction page - explains a lot that I wasn't sure about. Regarding the removal tool, when you say "open it up", is that through the centre or offset like with a lambda/O2 removal socket (this link is just an example)?

Lately the freewheel seems to be failing, had to make it home on the last trip almost completely on throttle alone as the pedalling did not want to lock to turn the wheel it was just freewheeling in both directions. It was doing that only occassionally and for a few seconds in the last few weeks. Does anyone have any info on the freewheel for the Aurora or any special tools needed to replace it? I don't really want to dismantle everything and find I cannot complete the job, as I can still use it for now on throttle... This is a photo from the last time I took it apart it it helps: http://i61.photobucket.com/albums/h76/gsolker/Alien%20Aurora%20Electric%20Bicycle/100_8249.jpg

Thanks for the suggestions, the Agattu XXL unfortunately doesn't have step-thru, he cannot raise his leg high enough to mount it (same problem as with my Aurora for him). The Powabyke shopper seems reasonable, has anyone done the lithium conversion, is it reliable, and a few internet searches didn't really clarify if it can handle the 135kgs. I would hate for it to snap/break at a weakpoint when going over a small pothole or bump! Otherwise, like Gray suggested, it may have to be a conversion...

After seeing me doing almost all my travelling on an ebike for a while now, my father-in-law has wondered if perhaps he should invest in one. The problem is he is 68, 6ft tall and 135kgs. He badly wants to lose weight, but it just seems to be increasing. I know my aurora is unsuitable as he needs a step-thru, so he cannot even test it, and 2 other companies in Bristol that had ebikes that he popped into out of interest said they have nothing suitable. Is there anything reasonable available for him? I was just reading the other threads about the benefits in combating against all sorts of health dangers as he gets older. He loved cycling when he was younger, and would love to get back into it.

I agree. In the event of an accident, the 350W motor will already null the "legal" status, so trying to prove anything with a separate "speed limiting" gadget will not legalise the bike any more than switching to medium mode on the power settings. If you want to prevent tampering, just lock something over the power panel (fold some sheet aluminium around it and drill holes in the ends and slip a small padlock through it) so nobody can switch to hi power.

I sent a PM as well, a few days ago... no reply?

Something similar... but... I mounted the second battery on the top of the rack - photos here http://www.pedelecs.co.uk/forum/electric-bicycles/11931-what-would-happen-if-48v-alien-aurora-3.html The main advantage - it is still under the panniers (hidden and protected) and I can use either battery without any hassles. The main disadvantage - the weight distribution is scary! I just spliced into the wires that came from the other battery and as mine are 2 different voltages, I must make sure they are not on at the same time.

Just thought I should update this thread after riding the upgraded Aurora for a few weeks. I have seriously tried to ride even a few metres without breaking out into a huge smile, and I just cannot help it. This is undoubtedly the most fun I have ever had on 2 wheels! I rode the first few times with both batteries just in case the 48v ran out of power I could just switch over, but 16miles and no sign of even any fade, so now I cycle with the 48v battery only. When I had both batteries on the bike, the centre of gravity was really awkward when pulling away, the monstrous torque just wanted to pop a wheelie all the time, so I had to lean forwards as if I am racing every car on pullaway hehehe... got some funny looks, as I must've appeared quite ridiculous with big work backpack and huge alien panniers fitted! ... but no laughter from them when I pulled away! Uphills are soooooo easy. Most I don't even have to pedal, except perhaps the steepest we have and it feels pretty much effortless what I do have to put in. Sometimes when I see another cyclist I pedal just to fit in socially :-) Kind of like peer pressure to become a casual pedaller! If I see someone really checking out the bike while driving next to me, I pedal backwards while accelerating - the completely baffled looks just make my day! I went out to a deserted stretch of flattish road with no wind and tested the bike tops out at about 26mph with no pedalling. Trying to pedal any faster at those speeds is impossible with the standard gears. It feels too dangerous to be accelerating to those speeds on normal roads and in traffic, so I obviously stay away from using the full power then. The only things that I still need to sort out is: 1) the headset nut keeps coming loose, I don't have a spanner big enough to tighten it, and can't seem to find one at a reasonable price. Had it tightened properly a while back, but it loosened again. Is there any other method I can use to keep it tightened? 2) I cannot seem to find a suitable way to fasten the panniers on anymore, as I fitted the battery on the top of the rack where it used to fasten on. So I've had to use a system of bungees and tie-downs to get it secured. I still want the panniers, they are very handy and also hide the batteries perfectly. 3) I must get some better lights! Days are getting shorter and soon will be cycling in the dark. The 36V system no longer works, so I have removed it. Have normal lights on at the moment, but should upgrade soon. 4) The connector for the new battery is still "open" even though it is pretty much watertight. I want to make a little alu box or at least a pouch to hide it though. It's not a nice connector as it has no screwdown holes or anything easy to clamp it with. Other than that, I am totally happy with the bike and the upgrade. It required minimal work to get working and really unleashes the potential of the Aurora!

3) Decided to keep the functionality of the 36V battery rack, as my 36V battery still has some life in it, and installed the 48V battery rack on top. I had to remove the spring loaded top holder in order to do this. I spliced in the red positive and black negative so that the battery power will follow exactly the same route as the 36V battery. *I have not completed the mounting of the controller box - that is why it is hanging loose!* http://i61.photobucket.com/albums/h76/gsolker/Alien%20Aurora%20Electric%20Bicycle/100_8626.jpg http://i61.photobucket.com/albums/h76/gsolker/Alien%20Aurora%20Electric%20Bicycle/100_8622.jpg 4) Tested the 36V battery and immediately noticed that just fixing the controller made a huge difference. The acceleration is much better and smoother, and goes uphill much much better! 5) Tested the 48V battery (with the 36V battery still there, but switched OFF)... Went to an empty deserted road on the low setting, which now goes up to 14mph. Once I got there, I tried medium power and that is now similar to the 36V high power setting and hit about 19mph... then... got ready, gritted my teeth, switched to High Power mode, held on tighter and opened the throttle...!!! Basically this scared the crap outta me!! It managed to start raining just as I did this and on a very slight uphill (still with the weight of both batteries!) the bike was riding effortlessly (and it felt like it was still accelerating) at 24mph! I had to slow down as the rain was actually hurting from stinging my face and eyes! Switched back to low power - I shall keep it here for riding on public roads anyway. 6) Thought about a few things... perhaps someone can advise me on this... If I switch on both batteries at the same time, what would happen? They would essentially be connected in parallel, so would this result in a lower total voltage with increased range from higher Amp-hours? Also, my 36V lights no longer work (with the 36v battery) - have I unintentionally damaged something on the controller? And if I do get them to work, could they still be used with the 48V battery? And I am assuming that my battery indicator will work with the 36V battery, but not the 48V battery? Or will the 48V battery be drained all the way to below 35V before it shows low? Thanks for all the advice on the forum, really helped me do this so far!

It worked!... And scared the crap outta me! I finally had all the components delivered a few days ago, and went about doing the repairs and modifications... 1) removed the capacitors and resistor, some were definitely already blown/burnt. http://i61.photobucket.com/albums/h76/gsolker/Alien%20Aurora%20Electric%20Bicycle/100_8621.jpg 2) installed the new components - 220ohm 5Watt resistor; 6 capacitors, all were 50volt, now 63volt - 1000uF, 100uF, four x 47uF. I know my soldering is not the best, tried to keep it as neat as I could with my basic kit. http://i61.photobucket.com/albums/h76/gsolker/Alien%20Aurora%20Electric%20Bicycle/100_8618.jpg http://i61.photobucket.com/albums/h76/gsolker/Alien%20Aurora%20Electric%20Bicycle/100_8619.jpg

I think I shall do both... I'm going to follow the tips and try to repair mine, but also have to choose which of these 2 controllers to order. I am not sure from the descriptions if there are any differences, could anyone help? Option 1 at £17.80 or Option 2 at £25.49

I have taken some photos... the resistor could be brown black brown, which I think would then be 100 ohm if I used the colour codes correctly? So I could go with a 150 ohm 3W replacement. I think the controller is identical to the one previously pictured, it also has the same code printed on the board. Totalling it all up, I should be able to buy all the parts with postage for around £10-£15 depending on which capacitors I get (85 degrees versus 105 degrees high temp red caps) and 100V versus 63V. I am looking at the photos of the circuit more closely and it seems to be in quite a bad way compared to the other pictures. Some of the wires insulation are partially melted, and the thick blue one was half fused on the yellow one! But the insides were not touching. Do I spend a few pounds extra and get a new 48V controller or take a chance on this one? http://i61.photobucket.com/albums/h76/gsolker/Alien%20Aurora%20Electric%20Bicycle/100_8511.jpg http://i61.photobucket.com/albums/h76/gsolker/Alien%20Aurora%20Electric%20Bicycle/100_8509.jpg http://i61.photobucket.com/albums/h76/gsolker/Alien%20Aurora%20Electric%20Bicycle/100_8508.jpg