manalog

Thanks Amigafan, I'll give it a go.

I hope they are, I'm about t o buy a new one but I don't use my E bike very often nowadays. The problem with the Throttle is the spring looks like it is broken inside I can still use it but the throttle is not returning to the original position. I might have to open it up and have a look.

I had the same problem last year, they replaced my Battery. Last week my Thumb Throttle stopped working and e mailed them twice - no response and the phone just keeps ringing.

Mine is really loud, makes people look for a reversing Lorry! I'm thinking of disconnecting one of the speakers. G

I have checked the spokes last night ant they are a bit loose but I don't want to tighten them in case I mess it up completely. I might take it to my LBS on Saturday. Cheers, Gerry

This is a good point, I wonder if I have rotor/pads mismatch. I used the bike for approx 50 miles before conversion . I wii tighten the spokes first before going for new pads. Cheers, Gerry

Aha! This explained my reduced range and alarm going off. Thanks Dave Cheers, Gerry

Thanks Kirstin. I'll give that a go.

Hi Flecc, I'm considering buying a rear hub because of the weight at front plus the increase torque on the fork. I will do some testing atthe weekend. Installt he original wheel with the 180mm rotor and see if Istill get this issue. Can loose spokes cause this? G

Hi D8veh, This is a brand new bike but I'll check just in case they put in a dodgy headset but there is no play when I did the backward and forward test.

Hi Kirstin, The rotor seems fine and there is no play in the Headset. This is a brand new bike and since conversion I have always have this issue but a bit more worrying now with my Booster pack :-) The fork moves backwards and forward under braking as if the caliper is grabbing the rotor on and off, its a shame I cant install the original rotor as the rotor Im using is not Avid but a generic 180mm I can't even remember the name but it seems good quality. Cheers, Gerry

Hi, I have converted my Pinnacle Lithium 6 using an 8Fun Kit. This bike has Hydraulic disc with 180mm rotor and the wheel wobble under braking. I can see the fork vibrating backward and forward. I have checked the wheel for trueness and it seems fine. I have also checked the rotor bolts and the caliper bolts. Im getting a little worried that the fork might fail. The Fork is a Cromo with no suspension. I have never experience this before conversion. The original bike had a 160mm rotor but I had to replace to 180mm to accomodate the motor using a 180mm adaptor post. Any ideas what might cause this? Many Thanks, Gerry

Great Post, thanks for sharing.

This is interesting, I too have an imax b6 ac. I thought my pack is fully charged when it beeps at 120mins. I have ,I beleive, is 11V 15AH (3 11V laptop batts in parallel) do I charge this 3 times? I'm charging at 2.5 amps.

Hi Dave, My Booster is 11V at 10AH and I am adding another 11V 5AH to bring total capacity of my Booster to 11V 15AH. In total including the Main Battery I am running 13S 10AH. I am just reading some post and realised it looks like I am well over the 48V limit!!!! I thought by adding an 11V Booster I will be running my motor at approx 48V. Mind you I have not had any issues with overheating and my controller (original 8fun) is in my saddlebag. I'll watch out when we eventually get some good weather. No wonder Kirstin decided not to go above 7.4V. Cheers, Gerry

I have the original Contour. Have a look at Magnatom's website he did a Review on a number of Cameras.The Mind of a Helmet Camera Cyclist: Helmet Camera Review - Part 1

This could be the reason for the alarm but once I hear the alarm I switch off and just use pedal power. I might add another 3s2p and see what happenss.

I think you will only get the booster voltage. If you wire in a balance wire and connect to a voltage monitor as D8veh has suggested you will see the pack overall voltage then cell1, cell2 and so on. The alarm is a bit unreliable you need to look at the voltages but it does give you a warning, mine is set to 3.4 volts but the alarm sometimes goes off at 3.85V during a climb on full throttle so my booster pack never go below 3Volts on any of the cells I hope.

Thanks for the offer D8veh but Bristol is a bit too far for me, beside I might give you a race :-) Were you at the Redbridge meet, there was a bike there with a massive triangle battery in the frame but I didn't see it on the track.

Just imagine going up a steep hill at 22mph! The lycra brigade will be in tears. :-)

I am thinking of doing the Dunwich Dynamo on mine. Your story is truly inspirational. I don't think anyone has ever done a 120miles on an E bike on a 10AH Battery with 11v booster of course(thanks to D8veh for helping me out) I might be the first then again I might chicken out on the last minute and ride my Road bike instead. Well done and thanks for sharing your story. Cheers,G

Hi Kirstin, Im doing the same experiment as you, but with a 11V 10AH Booster, I have been commuting on it for more more than a week now no problems, range is 50miles. Buy a Voltage monitor they are only £3 and hook it up to your Booster to monitor its overall Voltage and cells. I set mine to alarm at 3.4V. See my thread for the wiring http://www.pedelecs.co.uk/forum/electric-bicycles/14841-8fun-kit-mod-48v.html. Thanks to your experiment I now have a pedelec I always wanted. By the way, Im also offering you some Samsung 2600 Li ons, they are ex Laptop batts if you are interested.

Imagine running out of power during mid flight! Scary. I would remove the wire guard to avoid smidsys lol.

By the way, what was the Fob prices they quote you?