aardvark5

Thanks for the explanation though, don't mix and match with Cyclotricity.

Post 14

Perhaps but the K2 kit on the bike was Cyclotricity, I changed only the motor from the Yose Power K2 kit and then realised after a couple of years I was having problems which were getting worse. Take into account I only commute once a week and I have two eBikes depending on the weather. I originally thought one of my batteries was buggered but it ended up being that I didn't put the rest of the Yose Power kit on when I had it. It's now working great with the controller, digital display and PAS that came with the motor. Also bare in mind that the Cyclotricity digital display won't work with the Yose controller which I thought was strange. I've converted at least 25 bikes for other people but of course I always put all the kit on and not mix and match like I did with my bike - typical.

I was on the Great Orme last November when an elderly cyclist had a mishap and I went over to help him. I said it was a nice Trek ebike and I had 2x Trek's that I had converted. I then asked the price: £7,800, he said he nearly had the £10,500 model. https://www.trekbikes.com/gb/en_GB/bikes/mountain-bikes/electric-mountain-bikes/rail/rail-9-8-gx-axs-gen-4/p/37016/?colorCode=black

If anybody is interested another FINAL update to my problem. Gave the bike a proper ride to work and back today and it was wonderful. My pedal assist never worked correctly so I always used the thumb control but the PAS that came with the kit is working perfectly. So my advice is, if you are ever doing your own conversion fit all the parts that came with that conversion kit. I thought being K2 parts they would work with each other but in this instance it seems they are tuned to each other. Thanks for listening to an old man rant.

He is a Prison Officer and quite high up also. The beauty of eBikes is that you can cut out a lot of unnecessary roads by being able to go on footpaths/cycle lanes etc. For example my commute is only around 10% roads/streets but if I had an eScooter I'd have to go on 100% road. Funny thing is looking out of my office at the hospital we used to regularly see two blokes overtaking cars on the A34, one day a colleague came in and said that Coppers were loading their bikes into a Police van further up the road, we never saw them again. They overtook me one day on the road the other side of the hospital and I'd say their motors were 1500 watts they were going that fast.

Around 2015 I had a 1000 watt motor but only kept it on for a month, it was too fast for the MTB I was using and scared me several times. Also I've been stopped 3 times on my 250 watts to see if they're legal and they are or OK with the Police. I do have thumb throttles on both bikes but I explained I had them back around 2011/2012 so no problem. To be honest both bikes are now like Triggers Brush with everything changed except the thumb throttles A work colleagues husband recently spent around £3000 on a 1000 watt bike and had it confiscated 4 days later.

Both of my Trek bikes were bought off Gumtree for £150 each and I then put £350 to £400 conversions on them from Yose Power and Cyclotricity. I've also helped at least 25 other people do conversions on named bikes they've bought off Gumtree and Marketplace.

I'll keep this updated just in case people have similar problems. A couple of years ago I bought a Yose Power kit and only used the front motor with my older Cycloticity electrics and all seemed fine until a few months ago when my motor kept cutting out more and more. Since it was doing the same with both of my batteries last week I decided to change the controller with the one that came with the Yose Power kit however my thumb throttle wouldn't work. Messed about with no luck and then decided to use the digital display from the Yose kit and went for a ride with everything working. I'm a bit amazed that the old Cyclotricity digital display wouldn't work with the new controller since they are a K2 system. I still need to take it for more of a test with a few banks but looking good so far. There is another bit to this. I said that I had no problems with the Yose motor on the old Cyclotricity K2 system but I did have something that happened every day on my commute, the motor cut off in exactly the same place very day which was very weird. So what I'm experiencing really bad now did used to happen only once and in virtually the same place. I've got a friend into the supernatural (I AM NOT) and for a wee take I made a video of my motor cutting off, digital display still on full and nothing happening, of course he put it down to the supernatural but I was none the wiser but thinking if there was some kind of power surge in the area. So the reason for this is that I now think I've always had the problem but only once a day and from the very start when I put the motor on I should have replaced the controller and digital display at the same time.

Thought I'd keep you updated. I didn't buy a battery straight away, I wanted to see how my good battery coped on my normal commute to work because I only go in once a week. Even though my good battery got me up a big bank four times the other day, today it cut out 6 times - WTF? So I'm going to fit my spare controller to see if that solves it. If that doesn't work then it's got to be the motor.

I'm talking rubbish Just identified my batteries, been out for a big bank ride and one of them does cut out while the other stays on. Funnily enough the one that stays on is the battery I posted about where a wire came off the other week. Is there a fix for the duff battery or is it a new one?

It happens with my identical battery also. I do have a spare controller so will fit that one day this week. Thanks

Like I said I've never had a problem since 2010 but now my MTB is playing up. No idea what speed but slow, assist level 5 and weight I'm the lowest I've been since I had them. I do know I'm 5ft 6ins and two stone overweight. Cycling up with my virtually identical Hybrid is no problem. HOWEVER it's worse than I thought, cycling into work this morning I stopped 3 times on the flat and 3 times on slight banks. Even here it cut out - https://www.google.com/maps/@53.0049653,-2.2105498,3a,75y,338.2h,90t/data=!3m6!1e1!3m4!1sjIrpHSWTlEcz0RTrcCFwNQ!2e0!7i16384!8i8192?authuser=0&entry=ttu

Sorry I took so long to reply, problems. I've had these bikes for a long time and back in January 2020 I changed both batteries over to Green Cell's. Both bikes acted normal with no problems but it was only last year I noticed the MTB started to cut out on a hill. So as an example last year riding up here to the top was no problem, there is a flat bit then goes up again - https://www.google.com/maps/@52.9823958,-2.1569676,3a,75y,77.31h,75.14t/data=!3m6!1e1!3m4!1sKnYl496mUj-iH5_MlsBcaA!2e0!7i16384!8i8192?authuser=0&entry=ttu Last week I stopped 3 times on my MTB.

I have two virtually identical bikes, all the same parts except one has a 26" motor and the other 700c .For a while I thought that a paranormal event was happening with my MTB every time I got to a certain place my motor would cut out so I'd turn the LED off and turn back on again. Yesterday I was riding up a steep hill and it cut out 3 times which said to me that it doesn't like the extra strain of a hill. I have two identical batteries and it happens with both, it doesn't happen with my Hybrid bike so which is more likely to be causing the problem : the motor, controller or even computer?