thirteen

Thanks, Neil. I'll check those out.

No worries, thanks for clarifying.

Hi all I'm not new on here but my attendance has been somewhat sporadic. This time around I'm looking at converting a 26" wheel bike with a front wheel motor. I have the bike, and a 36v battery along with a suitable battery housing. What I am looking for is a kit recommendation for the rest. ie a wheel, controller, cabling, pedal sensor etc. Essentially everything except the battery. I'd prefer it as simple as possible. I'm not bothered about having masses of assist options. Anything from a simple high/low up to 5 will do. Likewise, I would prefer a simple display. A 790 or similar would be ideal. A comprehensive display is not a preferred option. Motor-wise, a high torque, reliable motor would be great. I'd buy from a reputable company like Woosh ideally but it's unclear whether they would be willing to supply anything as simple as I desire, and without a battery included. Thanks for any advice and recommendations given.

It was helpful, Chris. Most of the information I found out from this topic was totally new to me. I was faced with a similar dilemma recently. After consulting those more knowledgeable on here, what I did was to buy a new cell pack of similar size to the one in my original battery casing.

My experience with Marathon Plus seems to conflict with most above. I was put off fitting them for years because of opinions regarding their high drag and the difficulty of fitting on rims. I decided to fit them to my Brompton for an all-day ride in a remote location, figuring that I'd put up with the issues for their puncture prevention properties. I needn't have worried. The MPs were just as easy to put on without levers as any others I'd tried, and they rolled better than Brompton's own branded tyres. Bolstered by this, I fitted a pair on my MTB. They have been brilliant for everything except mud. That said, neither are Schwalbe landcruisers, and the MPs are better on road. Again they go on ( and off when finally worn out) without levers. On an ebike, particularly on a hub motor wheel, it's a no brainer. I would never even consider anything else unless I was riding extreme off road.

Worth reading this afterwards. https://www.theguardian.com/environment/bike-blog/2021/dec/13/how-a-myth-about-london-bike-lanes-and-congestion-took-flight

I'm a Marathon plus fan, too. I still carry a tiny ( but reassuringly expensive ) pump and a pack of scabs. The only time I have used any scabs before they've gone past their use-by date is when I've given them to riding friends who've suffered punctures on a ride.

Yep, especially when there's a myriad of different chain widths for various gearing configurations. I needed to replace the chain on my 9 speed Wisper 705 because the previous owner let it get corroded. It's 144 links. I like KMC chains, so bought 2 off 116 link KMC x9 chains, using one full one, and one part one joined together. The chains were £7 each. As regards changing the cassette too, the LBS inevitably faces a choice between not doing it, the client having chain slip, or changing it, and the client questioning whether the cost was necessary. Rock + hard place.

I'm glad it is healing, albeit slowly. Recovery is sometimes about playing the long game. I suffered BPH for years, including my prostate gland expanding 3cm into my bladder. Tamsulosin helped a bit but basically kicked my arse with side effects. Eventually, after a urinary retention episode, catheterisation for 5 months, and UTIs that developed into sepsis, I was given HoLEP surgery, removing a large amount of my prostate gland by laser. That was 3 years ago. It probably took 18 months for everything to return to normal, but the results were utterly fantastic. My surgeon was a keen cyclist, and we actually discussed saddles post surgery. I have a selection of bicycles and ebikes, all of which have ISM noseless saddles. They're not for everyone, which suits me as I've never paid for a new one. They have all been ones bought, used for days, maybe weeks, then sold on to recoup at least some money back.

Good grief, no. I know my limitations. I bought a 17.5Ah cell pack already fitted with a BMS and soldered it in place of the one I'd taken out of the Wisper battery casing. If anyone was going to do the same they'd be far better off following photographic guides of someone more professional than me.

Back with an update. Having checked out the options, given the age and value of the bike, I decided to do a recell myself with a 17.5Ah pack. I am happy to report that the Wisper is back doing what it was built for. Huge thanks for the advice and direction.

Tha you very much David. I will do that today. Just to clarify, I believe that the serial number is on the headstock, yes? It wouldn't be a big surprise that the bike is older than stated by its previous owner. I simply took it as stated, backed up by the date written in magic marker on the battery casing. It is in great condition, whilst obviously well used, testament to the build quality. I'm actually impressed, enough in fact to probably keep it myself rather than gifting it to one of my family when completed.

Thanks for the advice. I guessed that next to my 40 litres of diesel wasn't the best place. It's sat in a ventilated, covered, but essentially outside area. Having said that, and looking at the damage, I'm not so sure it's been caused by swollen cells inside. The casing may have been opened up and closed again clumsily, or perhaps dropped. Anyway, advice noted and taken, cheers!

Thank you. That is very helpful, and the replacement battery & charger route seems like a good option. Having examined the battery casing this morning it looks like it has been damaged by expanding cells ( I think, without further disassembly.) Given the cracking of the casing maybe a recell isn't the best idea. Stupid question but how would I identify what battery would fit? Obviously it's a " silverfish," seat post battery, but are the connections common, or do I have to pay particular attention to get one that fits the Wisper set up?

Hi again, and apologies for not being present on the forums for a while. I have inherited a 2014 Wisper 705 classic with what appears to be a dead battery and no charger. The dead battery is the long range 36v, 16aH seat post one, and according to what I have been told, the original charger had two settings, 42v and 39v. What are my best value options, do you reckon? 1.New Wisper battery and charger ( if available) 2. Aftermarket battery and charger? ( If so, any guidance/recommendations/links would be gratefully received.) 3. Getting the original battery casing fitted with new cells, and an aftermarket charger?. (Again, any further information would be welcome.) Thanks in advance. The bike itself doesn't appear to be in bad condition. It's been used and enjoyed but sadly left at the back of the previous owner's garage uncharged for over a year.

BN42 please, flecc

Most could be attributed to the weight loss. However better digestion and not suffering mild IBS symptoms can be directly attributed to cutting out dairy. I know this from switching back onto dairy for short periods and seeing symptoms recur.

That's exactly what I did. The "threat," from my GP was that unless I could get my total and LDL levels to below the NHS stated figured of 5.0 and 3.0 respectively, she would be prescribing statins. My levels were 7.6 total, 4.5 LDL. I achieved it within 6 months, hence the 2.5 stone weight loss as a by-product. Cutting out dairy was a big part of that.

No, certainly not. Measured in smiles per £, the return on investment was immense. I'm glad that my old thread has been of use.

It might be worth having a read through my old thread on a similar bike, bought used and broken. https://www.pedelecs.co.uk/forum/threads/viking-e-go-24-impulse-purchase.20636/

I don't. I already reduced it 2 years ago on the advice of my GP. At the time, I followed the advice of a trained medical professional, and took that advice, which took into account early deaths from heart diseases. Are you saying that following that advice was wrong, and I should have bought a book and done nothing to reduce my cholesterol levels?

Yes, because of a need to reduce my cholesterol levels, I cut out dairy completely. Although I had no prior indications of being dairy intolerant, the resulting health improvements have been eye opening. I have also dropped 2.5 stone in 2.5 years. To be fair, I did overdo the cheese and butter quite considerably. Mrs Thirteen had been telling me I would enjoy coffee a lot more if I learned to drink it black. She was, as usual, correct.

To save anyone else having to go to Google translate:- Hello group, sorry to invade your group, but I can't find anything about my bike, I live in the Netherlands in all cases, I have the zoned batavus and go and I would like to change my crown to a bigger one, change it now or speed sensor for the outside and I install some available sensors and I can go faster, but I feel that you can pedal fast when you reach about 37 km / h. I was at my local store and he told me that I already have 42t of chain, I don't want to drive 50 km / h, but I want to ride more comfortably at that speed. Also where can I buy all the tools? Can I buy for cheaper, does anyone know anything?

Loving those 'bars.

Good information. As we have 2 bikes with the same display, I will note this for the future.