May 1, 201412 yr Author My current set up has a five level pas from conhismotors which starts at 60% up wards. The throttle has a very narrow range, i.e. very little movement needed and you're at full power. So I am attempting to control/reduce that power when I want to use it on a road. The power is fine off road but too much for on road usage.
May 31, 201411 yr Author Hi d8veh. I fitted the kit to my bike and am now stuck. It would go for about 2 seconds and then stop. After about 10 minutes and changing various settings, I still could not get it going. I then had a fault reported on the LCD as fault 6 Motor or controller has short circuit Abnormality. It blew the fuse from my batteries. There's no obvious smell of burning on motor or controller. I then tried troubleshooting various possibilities, i.e. getting phase wires wrong way around etc, no success. I disconnected the controller from all other wiring, put in a 10 amp fuse and reconnected to battery and promptly blew the fuse. So problem is in controller, but what? I've taken it apart but everything looks ok. Do you have any suggestions/ideas?
May 31, 201411 yr It could be the in rush current blowing the fuse. I would try a 30a and see what happens.
May 31, 201411 yr Hi d8veh. I fitted the kit to my bike and am now stuck. It would go for about 2 seconds and then stop. After about 10 minutes and changing various settings, I still could not get it going. I then had a fault reported on the LCD as fault 6 Motor or controller has short circuit Abnormality. It blew the fuse from my batteries. There's no obvious smell of burning on motor or controller. I then tried troubleshooting various possibilities, i.e. getting phase wires wrong way around etc, no success. I disconnected the controller from all other wiring, put in a 10 amp fuse and reconnected to battery and promptly blew the fuse. So problem is in controller, but what? I've taken it apart but everything looks ok. Do you have any suggestions/ideas? it looks like you have a short somewhere in the motor copper wires. It can't be a blown FET or short in motor cable because the motor runs for 2 seconds, enough for the controller to find the over current somewhere inside the motor and asserts error 6. As soon as the controller raises error 6, it stops the motor. I think you'll have to get a new motor. Edited May 31, 201411 yr by trex
May 31, 201411 yr Author Hi Mike, the original fuse was 30 amp and I have just tried another which also just blew. I can't physically see anything wrong with the controller, still no smell or damage.
May 31, 201411 yr Author Hi trex, I assume it must be controller as I have disconnected it from all other systems.
May 31, 201411 yr Author The motor was working fine with the original controller. This controller is completely unplugged except for power.
May 31, 201411 yr does the motor have hall wires? if it doesn't then there may be an issue with the programming of the controller, you may be stuck with the old controller until you find a third controller to run more test.
May 31, 201411 yr Ok, if you only have battery connected to controller, and it's taking out a 30a fuse, then you have a fault in the controller, or the wiring to it. It's worth double checking the wires from battery to controller, just in case. If that's all ok, you need a new controller.
May 31, 201411 yr I would say that something on the controller pcb is touching the case. The pcb has to sit in its slot. When it's in properly look through from end to end at the underneath of the pcb. Is anything hanging down enough to touch the case? I've seen them before direct from Chinese suppliers with the pcb asembled not in it's slot so the side opposite the FETs is touching the case. Check that first and report back.
May 31, 201411 yr Author Thanks for your help guys. I still can't see anything wrong with the controller, But I'll leave it until tomorrow.
June 1, 201411 yr Author Hi d8veh, I can't see anything touching. Took it out of case for a once over and gave it a light blast with some air, still blew a fuse. I then checked it on a DMM(measuring resistance at 20k) ground to yellow 9.95 ground to blue 10.00 ground to green 0.00 positive to yellow 9.95 positive to blue 10.00 positive to green 0.00 Does this mean the mosfets are blown on the high and low end:mad:? I've been doing some reading:)
June 1, 201411 yr Looks like it. The other possibility is that it's stuck open. Check that the gate voltage is zero. That's the left hand leg to ground. If It has somewhere around 12v to 18v on it, the peoblem is that something else is telling it to open.
June 1, 201411 yr Author Hi d8ve, thanks for your help. How can I do this as I can't apply any power to it without it blowing the fuse. Are the middle 4 the green fet's ? https://www.endless-sphere.com/forums/download/file.php?id=127078. I'll contact BMS and see what they suggest, otherwise I'll have to replace them myself. Do you have any idea why they would blow like this?
June 1, 201411 yr Good point. Instead you need to measure the resistance between the right two legs of all the FETs on that phase to see if any of them are open when there's no power. Measure the resistance in both directions. If none are open, then the problem is the gate voltage stuck on.
June 1, 201411 yr Author Hi d8ve I measured the resistances across the legs. On 8 it was 1 , but on the middle 4 it was 0.4. I also measured between left and right legs on the 8 it was 1 but on the four in question it was 4.3, 4.3, 89.5, 89.5. I hope you can make some sense of this?
June 1, 201411 yr Author its the S12S 500W http://www.bmsbattery.com/controller/552-s06-250w-imitation-torque-square-wave-controller.html
June 1, 201411 yr OK, So there's four FETs on each phase. You determined that the green phase is open, so you only have to look at those four FETs. There's two adjacent ones in parallel for the up-side pulse and two in parallel for the down-side one. Each in each pair should give the same result as its partner. It looks like the one that you call no.8 is faulty. What end are you counting from? Can you take a decent detail high resolution photo of the back-side of the PCB in that area? Post as a link from Photobucket or another image host. Take the photo directly from above, not angled. I only need to see the area around those 4 FETs. I don't need to see what type of table it's sitting on, or what's in your workshop.
June 1, 201411 yr Author <a href="http://s100.photobucket.com/user/charleshartshorneying_chase/media/controller_zps6eb929a8.jpg.html" target="_blank"><img src="http://i100.photobucket.com/albums/m32/charleshartshorneying_chase/controller_zps6eb929a8.jpg" border="0" alt=" photo controller_zps6eb929a8.jpg"/></a> Hi d8veh I hope that the above link works and that the image is suitable. As regards my number, I meant that on 8 of the fets the value was 1. But on the other four it was 0.4 etc. i.e. the measurements that seem different were always on the middle set of four.
June 1, 201411 yr Out of those four FETs, I'm looking at the second from the left in your photo. The track runs downwards from the middle leg to the thick track along the edge. No other part of it should touch any of the other tracks. In the photo, it looks like there's a bridge upwards. Can you verify that by scraping it with a sharp point. First, determine whethere there is a bridge, then scrape right through it to clear it if there is one.
June 1, 201411 yr Author By bridge I assume you mean a bit of varnish like material that I scraped off?
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