I've been thinking about it for a bit. It did go for a couple of seconds, which seems to rule out a short on the PCB. Something must have failed. There's only two things I can think of that could blow: the FETs or the 12v regulator. On the opposite edge of the pcb to the FETs is another thing that looks like a FET, but it's on its own. It's the 12V regulator that is also connected to the battery voltage, but it's difficult to test without power and with the + and - shorted out.

 

I have one last question before I give up. I take it all the tests have been done with the LCD disconnected?

Yes. LCD is disconnected. Regulator looks OK. What does the back of your board look like?

 

 

How good is bmsbattery customer service?

Here's mine:

http://i451.photobucket.com/albums/qq236/d8veh/controllers/20140603_1632501_zps9a4f148e.jpg

 

BMSBattery are trying to improve their customer service. It's worth an e-mail to see what they say, but they don't know what you connected to it and how, so I can imagine that they'd be quite suspicious. If you coulf find a fault with it, you'd be in a much stronger position. Have a close look to see if any of the surface mount components are not soldered properly.

Finally, found some damage. Red wire for speed sensor slightly melted and one end of grey cable (ABS) not attached. Though this last could be after the fact.

I took the heat sink off, so I could look at the legs better, but also found that two of the fets (on the green phase) had a crazed look to their backs.

http://s100.photobucket.com/user/charleshartshorneying_chase/media/IMG_20140603_222622_zps6e88d219.jpg.htmlhttp://s100.photobucket.com/user/charleshartshorneying_chase/media/IMG_20140603_222622_zps6e88d219.jpg.html

The grey wire wouldn't do anything if it shorted other than stop the controller from giving power. The red wire is interesting though because it gets its power from the 5v regulator, which can only give about 100 miliamps, so, if shorted, it would blow that regulator. It wouldn't get enough power to melt it, so maybe it's shorted to something else that's live. The 5v regulator looks like a transistor. It stands on three legs just behind the big resistor.

 

Th red wire has a single melt mark on it about 2 cm from where it joins the board. I can only assume it was touching something else. Two likely suspects are the small cap (furthest from your arrow) or the brown two legged object.

 

I have emailed BMS, just wait and see wait for their response. Still not sure what I did wrong. If I was responsible?

I think those crazing marks are a sign that the tin/lead coating melted. It's fairly clear that something has shorted somewhere for whatever reason.

Hi d8veh, I have power. What connections (phase and hall) did you use for your s12s to gng motor, i.e. which colour to which colour?

Thanks

I used a Conhismotor controller with my GNG. It went backwards so I reversed a couple of phase wires. I think that the S12S has automatic phase and hall sequence detection, so it should be colour to colour.

Well I tried that but it wasnt happy and now it has a short circuit again with one of the phases dead again. How should a self learning system be set up to learn?

What did you do to get power, and how did you know that you had it?

I replaced the four FETs and had power to the lcd and motor turned/juddered. But no proper movement, so changed phase writes and then started to change hall combinations and phase. 5A fuse blew after half an hour and now I have a short again between ground and live. I think FETs have blown on the yellow phase now.

I replaced the 4 FETs and LCD was then lit and motor jerked. But no self learning and started to do phase wire and then hall combo. After about 20 minutes 5A fuse blew and now ground and live are shorted again.

Did you order one of those ebike testers to test the motor?

I have just ordered one. BMS still working on their customer service, no reply to my emails:)

Hi d8veh,

I bought another controller from BMS. Seems to be a better build quality to the first one.

 

However I don't seem to have any success here either.

 

Using a tester, I have checked motor, controller and throttle, all seem fine. When I check the phases I have rotating lights which are correct and have the nearest LCDs in the rotation also faintly glow. I assume this is because its a sine wave controller.

 

When everything is connected (using tester) and I use the throttle I seem to lose all power after a few seconds. It doesn't matter if throttle is only on a 1/4 or WOT.

 

I have connected everything up, made sure wheel speed sensor is connected and on rear wheel and I get rough forward motion for a few seconds and then nothing. I have gone though the hall/phase wire combo and either got no rotation or rough forward or back, but nothing smooth. I'm missing the obvious but what? I have left the two "short circuited" wires coming out of the controller as is.

 

Any suggestions and insight greatly appreciated.

 

What settings would you recommend for C and P?

 

thanks

I'm away from home at the moment. This is a S12S controller? If so, have a search on Endless-sphere. I think a guy there had a similar problem. There was a long thread about it. He solved it in the end.

I have had a look on ES, but don't seem to have found any with the same problem. I still get only 3 good combinations of phase and hall, but they all seem rough and power cuts out after a few seconds. Does the slcd3 and s12s work with both 60 and 120 degree halls? The tester indicates that the gng motor is 120 degree.

Hi d8veh,

thanks for your help tonight.

 

 

I found this regarding P5 is power monitoring mode, when P5 setting is 0, the power monitoring is the "real-time voltage" mode. Namely, it is the

method to determine the battery capacity based on real-time

battery voltage. When P5 equals to a specified parameter, the power monitoring is the "smart power" mode (this parameter is determined by the battery characteristics, ordinary 24V lithium is generally is

4-11, 36V lithium is between 5_15). P5 setting ranges from 0-15

 

http://www.szktdz.com/uploadfile/download/f/1/10_1373788496.pdf

 

Parameter C2 seems to be concerned with the phases of the motor so C0 is a normal phase??? I haven't yet found out what the other phase/codes are.

Just in case yours is set to 1, P4 has to be set to zero for the throttle to work. C4 goes with it, and has to also be set to zero.

 

Make sure C8 (motor temperature) is set to zero (off).

 

I can't figure out what C2 is about, but I don't think that it's phase angle.

I'll try again tonight. Just had a response from China. Phase selection is not automatic. I've asked how to change. I see that you can add an extra shunt and that there are places on the board that seem to be were you can add jumpers. So we'll wait and see.

Default parameter is 120°. I've also asked about c2.

Is than an answer from Suzhou Kunteng or BMSB?

Suzhou kunteng. I wonder how we do change hall angle and is it 120 or could it have been changed