I don't need those on the bars, already plugged into the battery and recording max Watts and Amps. And Wh used to boot.

I don't need those on the bars, already plugged into the battery and recording max Watts and Amps. And Wh used to boot.

I run a cycle analyst along side so get the lot

Wh used and some min / max stats wouldn't go amiss on this new puppy [emoji6]

 

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I am on the Dark Side of the Force... All I care about is when the battery gets close to 36.5 V. Then it is time to turn it off and plug in the "get home" battery or start pedaling without assistance.

 

I really need nothing on the handlebars. I don't care how fast I am going the Watts I am using etc. Just where the battery is at and what assistance level I am in. You young people remember how many times you have pushed the assistance button and what level you are in.

 

We were promised a Bluetooth controller from Lishui but for the moment it is vapour.

http://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20160928/c265cada5554de6b937053279d755641.jpg

 

Any one else tried one of the 850c colour displays?

 

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I am trying one. Very useful information on how much juice you are using as you go along on each power level and when using the throttle. I've doubled my distance per ride since seeing the figures. Was getting 20 miles from 4AH lawn mower battery, now 40 miles on hilly hill rides.

The Amps setting is best in terms of consumption indication. Watts is such big numbers it gets confusing. The Amps display has a decimal point, but the indicator only changes in full Amp stages. This does not really matter, since it gives you a very clear idea of consumption rates at various settings. Like pedalling up hills at high cadence is consuming half the power of doing the same hill at the same speed in a higher gear, lower cadence, and pushing the throttle full on can use more than ten times normal consumption. The battery voltage also looks reliable, and does not fly up and down like the normal block displays.

I am trying one. Very useful information on how much juice you are using as you go along on each power level and when using the throttle. I've doubled my distance per ride since seeing the figures. Was getting 20 miles from 4AH lawn mower battery, now 40 miles on hilly hill rides.

The Amps setting is best in terms of consumption indication. Watts is such big numbers it gets confusing. The Amps display has a decimal point, but the indicator only changes in full Amp stages. This does not really matter, since it gives you a very clear idea of consumption rates at various settings. Like pedalling up hills at high cadence is consuming half the power of doing the same hill at the same speed in a higher gear, lower cadence, and pushing the throttle full on can use more than ten times normal consumption. The battery voltage also looks reliable, and does not fly up and down like the normal block displays.

 

The first part of your comment explains the last sentence. Because you are riding more efficiently the battery is sagging less so the voltage indicated remains more stable.

I really need nothing on the handlebars. I don't care how fast I am going the Watts I am using etc.

 

Me too, when I started with e-bikes I had every meter and toy in sight, I discovered I enjoyed riding without any of it as you tend to relax and not try to beat your best time without the reminders.

The big bonus is its safer as you spend more time looking at the road and traffic etc.

well having got to 1060 miles on my bbs01 I was about to do a glowing review when....

Turning on gives me error code 30

 

I just had an Error 30 code on my BBS01 I put less than 200 miles on. The shop I bought it from advised me to replace the controller so I bought a 25A controller compatible with my pre-April 2016 kit I asked them to reprogram to 18A. The new controller has a March 2016 manufacturing date and serial number K5NCROFO203 - a News post on the em3ev site from 21 Aug 2015 says the 3rd character in the serial number 'N' means a controller has the newer IRFB3077 Mosfets. Replacing the controller fixed the Error 30 problem.

 

After I reassembled the bike I got an Error 21 showing on the display. A cable inspection revealed the speed sensor wire had caught in my kick stand and was torn out of the controller at the end that goes into the potting compound so I can't access the circuit board to re-solder. The motor is still functioning at all PAS levels but my display now does not register the speed signal and after 1 second it displays the Error 21 message and goes blank. If I use my big green button kill switch as a 'clutch' it resets the display and enables me to shift the PAS level so I am able to ride the bike. On Endless-Sphere, the second contributor to this thread said they had been riding for a year with Error 21 and no display so I will buy a basic bike computer to display speed, and I have a watt meter to monitor battery consumption on longer rides.

Edited January 31, 20179 yr by Dewey

Thanks Dewey,

 

I am of the opinion that the seller should fix the issue where the system fails with normal use and no abuse.

I am about to apply the joint responsibilities between credit card company and dealer in failure as the dealer won't even respond to me.